will or survive or is it time for a rebuild?
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will or survive or is it time for a rebuild?
car has 161k was running good till this week. it started jerking and then i hit the gas harder and it would move again. well today leaving work it started doing it but then it didnt move, shift into nuetral and the car stalls. all temps and everything are ok there is coolant and oil in it. so i go to turn it on, looked like no compression cause the rpms stayed at 0. so i was like WTF. i called my mom for the AAA #. so she said she'll call me back, so i was like **** so i turn the key car starts right up. anyone have any clue what is going on???? i'm thinking either a seal is getting stuck or something or the seals are just dying themselves. or could it be that the motor is gonna lock up???? someone please help, all i need is the car to last me like 2 months max, so i can afford a rebuild...
#4
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Q: "Yes hello guys, I have a problem, my car is tore u[p, a rotor flew out onto the ground what should I do. IT is an engine rotor and not a brake rotor".
A: "Do the atf trick it may only be flooded. IF it doesnt run after that then you didnt use enough atf."
No offense to you guys but WTF is up with this atf ****? Ive been working on rotaries a few years now and atf has its time and uses but not for EVERY FREAKING PROBLEM! My god ths is turning into a pet peeve of mine. Along with:
Q:"I have a hesitation above 9000 rpm on top end, what should I do add more injectors to my 86 nonturbo?"
A:"Adjust your TPS. Then, do teh atf trick, and spray some carb cleaner in there for good measure. Hell, if you've got any engine degreaser, spray that in there too. "
Sorry but it is getting a bit out of hand IMO.
Anyway to answer your question, it is probably not the engine, at least not yet. IT probably isnt the strongest thing around, but as long as it makes compression on all 6 faces then you have a control system problem...injection and sensors.
From your description, and w/.o being there to hear it, its pretty hard to make some kind of guess about it.
A: "Do the atf trick it may only be flooded. IF it doesnt run after that then you didnt use enough atf."
No offense to you guys but WTF is up with this atf ****? Ive been working on rotaries a few years now and atf has its time and uses but not for EVERY FREAKING PROBLEM! My god ths is turning into a pet peeve of mine. Along with:
Q:"I have a hesitation above 9000 rpm on top end, what should I do add more injectors to my 86 nonturbo?"
A:"Adjust your TPS. Then, do teh atf trick, and spray some carb cleaner in there for good measure. Hell, if you've got any engine degreaser, spray that in there too. "
Sorry but it is getting a bit out of hand IMO.
Anyway to answer your question, it is probably not the engine, at least not yet. IT probably isnt the strongest thing around, but as long as it makes compression on all 6 faces then you have a control system problem...injection and sensors.
From your description, and w/.o being there to hear it, its pretty hard to make some kind of guess about it.
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my dad has a compression tester so i'm gonna test it tommorrow as well. if that doesnt work i'm gonna change the secondarys and put them in the primary's... does that sound good? what else can i check to see what it is???? if i were to just turn it on the car runs and idles fine. but its been jerking in the beginning lately today it actually turned off. and i'm a little pissed... when i tried to turn it on then the rpm's wouldnt move it just shaked a little, let it set for 10 mins then it turned on. its got major power lose, like it used to be able to accelerate fine and now its sort of lagging till i hit the gas more.... any suggestions would be appreciated...
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#11
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Starts up and idles fine you said. Seems your saying that when you go to accelerate, as in drive the car, it bucks and hesitates. Ok. Sounds like this would be one of those occasions where it would be a good idea to ohm out the tps. You'll be looking for *opens* and sudden rises and falls on your ohm meter while going thru the full range of the tps. Look in the FUEL AND EMISSION SECTION of the online manual at http://iluvmyrx7.com and the subsection called DECELERATION CONTROL SYSTEM. There it shows the tps connector and its plug. Looking into the plug, towards the tps, you have the single blade on top and the two parallel blades on the bottom. Put the meter on ohms, one lead of the meter on the top blade and the other on the bottom right blade. Now watch the meter while moving the plunger of the tps in and out. You want to see the reading move in smooth increments from the full in to the full out position and the same going from out to full in. You don't wanna see the reading hang up while moving the plunger or see and open reading b/t full open and full closed. 'Approx 5 ohms full open and under one ohm fully depressed. I have seen on my car something similar to what you describe. Got into the car at the auto store and it started just fine, but on application of the throttle , and I mean full throttle the car just sat there idling. I disconnected the tps to get home. The plunger or its internals was hanging up and seemed to be doing this when it was heat soaked. The next morning when fully cold, it ran just fine, until the tps got heat soaked and then the same 'ole same 'ole. I took it off while it was still hot and noticed the plunger would move in and out, but there was no spring tension behind the plunger. So it was hung up internally. Got new used tps. Your problem might be something totally different. I doubt its the injectors but who knows? Sounds like intermittent tps from here.
#12
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if the tack stays at 0 while the engine is cranking I don't think you are getting any spark from the trailing coil.
hmm, maybe pour some aft onto it
hmm, maybe pour some aft onto it
Last edited by Scott 89t2; 04-13-02 at 03:51 AM.
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if the rpm's dont move could it be that the coils are messed up. cause i went to get in my car and start it when i got home and it turned but the rpms didnt move but then bam all of a sudden it kicked in and turned on.
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