zigger1

ok, I got my mods done. ported intake manifold, TB mod, electric fan, removed acv and air pump. Now I got everything back on and fixed all the vacuum leaks and it runs nice but I can not get it to idle consitantly. I have adjusted the TPS. I also messed with the idle adjusting screws. I can ussually get it to idle but then it ends up cutting off when I am drving. It will idle low, all the way down to like 500, so i do not think it is a leak. How much are new TPS? where do you get them? Oh, also why would my oil guage move from below 60 at 3000 rpms and above 60k at 3000 rpms and then back down and so on? Should I first just get a new gauge?

RETed

The TPS is only available from a Mazda dealer.&nbsp Last time I checked, it was about $150 new.



-Ted

HAILERS

Adjust your dashpot and check your bac out. I assume your saying it dies when coming to a stop lite. You did not remove your dashpot, did you?

Ryde _Or_Die

Just because it will idle at 500rpms doesn't mean there isn't an intake leak. My car would idle most of the time, would drop down to almost die alot and would always move until I fixed an intake leak.

flubyux2

Yes, i know this thread is ancient; im practicing what i preach by Searching.

i was just wondering if its Normal for a car to idle low after doing all those mods, or actually not stay running after starting?

on my 1990 GTUs, i removed the ACV, ENTIRE 6PI system, ported the LIM and UIM, did the FULL TB mod, removed all vaccum lines associated w/ the ACV, 6PI and hot-start assist. this all ensued because the TB coolant hose stemming from the rear rotor housing blew out. i also took the opportunity to rebuild the Oil injector lines at this time too. the ONLY solenoid that currently has vaccum lines intact is the VDI switch. ill be plumbing my smog pump into my releif silencer and teeing my VDI pressure hose into that.

after doing all this work and doing the ATF trick to restore compression, the car refused to idle. i could pat the gas or hold it to stay alive and it sounded like a normal idle if i held it at 750... but if i let off, itd die out. my idle screw on top of the TB is backed out pretty far. it doesnt protrude into the port at all. i was able to adjust the throttle cable to get it to idle back up to 800, hot idle... but, is this NORMAL for the car to react this way after all these mods? i read where a few people had to adjust their throttle cable to pull it open a tiny bit and one guy mentioned his SAFC reads ~10% at idle constantly.

is there another way to bump the idle w/o resorting to the half-*** method of pulling the throttle cable tight?

btw, it also seems like my BAC isnt operating right. when the rpms drop, it dips down and comes back up to steady idle... is the BAC gonna crap out soon or is it because i removed the Dashpot and the throttle snaps shut too quickly?

im happy that i got rid of my AWS and the Thermowax on the TB... no more 3000rpm cold start!!! now i just shake the habit of holding the clutch in, putting the car in gear and blipping the throttle. im actually going to bypass the clutch safety switch to preserve whatever thrust bearings i have on my E-shaft.

when i got my car all back together, it had no compression