Wierd scarring on the front and intermediate side housings
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Wierd scarring on the front and intermediate side housings
I have these very shallow groves on my intermediate and front side housings. It looks like they are right where the corner seal touches the face of the housing. Is this common, and can these housings be used?
-Joe
-Joe
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Yeah.. you really need to mic them out with a dial gauge on a magnetic pedestal...
the MAX depth of those wear points is .0039 inches or .1mm , thats measured at the point about an inch from the waterchannel on the opposite side of the face from the intake port on the corner seal track (the one that kinda parallels the o ring channel) this will usually be the deepest groove
its the same for the crossover point of the football shaped inner side seal wear mark and the circular inner oil seal wear mark, (which is just inward of the corner seal track). Where the football shaped wear mark is INSIDE the circular shaped wear mark.. its .0004 (but i've never seen that one be bad.. yet) The round wear mark for the oil seal is .0008 (measured someplace OTHER than the crossover point)
They can be "lapped", I know that mazdatrix and racingbeat offer lapping services. You can't lap REALLY bad housings because of the depth of the o ring grooves. if you take too much thickness off the surface, the seals wont be able to squeeze into the grooves when you put the engine backtogether and it wont "clench" properly, and can cause the groves to break out into the waterchannel.. especiall with the new Teflon encapsulated seals.
I forget what the depth of the groves has to be, but Bruce T gives it in the video. If you have more than .0039 in the major wear area.. I'd measure the depth of your o ring grooves and then call mazdatrix to sii if they can be lapped or not.
lapping also decreases the overall thickness of the motor.. IE. you need a thinner spacer on the e-saft during re-assembly!!!
the MAX depth of those wear points is .0039 inches or .1mm , thats measured at the point about an inch from the waterchannel on the opposite side of the face from the intake port on the corner seal track (the one that kinda parallels the o ring channel) this will usually be the deepest groove
its the same for the crossover point of the football shaped inner side seal wear mark and the circular inner oil seal wear mark, (which is just inward of the corner seal track). Where the football shaped wear mark is INSIDE the circular shaped wear mark.. its .0004 (but i've never seen that one be bad.. yet) The round wear mark for the oil seal is .0008 (measured someplace OTHER than the crossover point)
They can be "lapped", I know that mazdatrix and racingbeat offer lapping services. You can't lap REALLY bad housings because of the depth of the o ring grooves. if you take too much thickness off the surface, the seals wont be able to squeeze into the grooves when you put the engine backtogether and it wont "clench" properly, and can cause the groves to break out into the waterchannel.. especiall with the new Teflon encapsulated seals.
I forget what the depth of the groves has to be, but Bruce T gives it in the video. If you have more than .0039 in the major wear area.. I'd measure the depth of your o ring grooves and then call mazdatrix to sii if they can be lapped or not.
lapping also decreases the overall thickness of the motor.. IE. you need a thinner spacer on the e-saft during re-assembly!!!
Last edited by YearsOfDecay; Apr 4, 2005 at 01:50 PM.
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From: n
Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
lapping also decreases the overall thickness of the motor.. IE. you need a thinner spacer on the e-saft during re-assembly!!!
Lapping housing decreases engine width.
Decrease of engine width increase eccentric shaft play.
To compensate for the increased e-shaft play, you need a thicker spacer.
-Ted
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