Ok... I hear this wierd clicking sound (almost like a backfire but it's not...it's just a loud click) when I tap the throttle and let go a bit (I have to do this to keep it from dropping to under 1500 RPMs and then dieing)...

I think it MIGHT be my throttle stop (I set it as far as I could to try to raise the minimum throttle), but I just want to make sure it's not something horrifically bad (maining inside the engine).

I've yet to actually get to the point where I can run it long enough to get the engine into normal operating temperatures... need something to keep it at a solid 2000 RPMs...

Maybe I should at least take it down the road for a test drive :p

Edit: Ok, it's definately not the throttle stop...

 

Well...

I've noticed that the problem only seems to happen after the engine runs for about 10 seconds, but it doesn't for whatever reason for the first 10...

Also, the car seems to "twist" more than usually when I apply the throttle. I hope that doesn't mean something isn't balanced right, or something.

I've got the feelng that this loud clicking is a serious problem, though.

 

might be something with you tranny/clutch/flywheel. or maybe your exhaust. is it the stock catback?

 

No... but it never made that sound before.

It only makes the sound when I let off the throttle (or when the idle bounces by itself). Basically after I apply it quickly and then let off.

It's kind of scary because I almost think the engine is gonna blow up any minute... I'm not sure if the oil injectors are working either (there's a bit of oil in the lines but it's not a steady flow... since I put on some handmade replacement lines (teflon) and one of them is slightly kinked (but not enough to stop flow, I think)...

Or maybe it's just because I have the vacuum lines all *****-nilly.

The AWS system doesn't seem to work either (it should, I didn't disable it, at least not on purpose).

 

sounds like backfire to me. I'm sure that rotary is way different but I'm not 100% familiar with it yet. My friend's MSP protege does that when he drops under 2k RPM. He can make it pop over an dover just taking the revs between, 1.9k and 2.1k

 

It doesn't sound like a backfire at all... it's sounds like a metal-on-metal clank, and the sound is clearly coming from the engine bay. My car backfires a little bit and it sounds completely different, not to mention from the other side of the car.

I'm hoping it's not pinging... or more importantly, something from inside the engine (ie, seals or something). I'm missing one of the transmission bolts (I've got 4 out of 5 in there), and one of the UIM bolts doesn't go all the way in, but the manifold itself is rock solid, so I kind of doubt it's that...

It makes me worry though...

I'd like to at least be able to drive it as far as the local Mazda place.

 

Hmm... I have a theory that it might be my manifold heat shield, since it's not bolted down all the way (rusted out...).

 

Thats what I was going to suggest. Check for loose metallic items under the hood.
As for the engine dying, its vac leak somewhere. That or the TPS needs adjusting. Check those two things.

 

Engine mount broken?


-Ted

 

bell housing inspection cover?
what about some info on the car...by the sounds of "homemade oil injection lines" it doesn't sound like a real gem...

My guess is seriously just something loose and rattling....does the noise seem to be directly tied to engine RPM's - I know you said it will only make the sound ifyou stab the throttle and let it off, but does the clanking seem to be tied with RPM?

 

I know it's a vacuum leak since there's several hoses that I left disconnected (although I plugged a few with ducktape...)...mainly the solenoid rack, where I haven't plugged any yet. There's one hose diconnected under the dynamic chamber that I can't even reach.

But I had the pulsation problem before (it idled high and unstable, but it idled nonetheless), so I think it's the TPS (which seemed to be out of whack at the bottom scale, but the top scale is just fine, although I didn't warm the car before I tested it).

 

vac leak or TPS for the idle problem - yes

for the noise - no

 

LOL, I made the OMP lines out of teflon, based on the writeup on the forum, since I broke two of them when I was taking my engine apart (since the materials to make four lines are cheaper than one OEM line). The other line seems fine... it's just that the one that loops down and back up is slightly kinked.

Also, it isn't really connected to the RPMs. It only happens when the throttle is let off.... that's why I think it's the manifold heat shield (which I assume only moves when the engine "twists"). However, since it's connected to the movement of the engine, it's only slightly worse when the RPM's are higher.

I don't even have the bellhousing dust cover... might be why my bellhousing was so dirty before...hehe


Also Ted, my engine mounts are fine. My differential mounts are another matter... they look like the walls of a castle (tooth-like ridges all the way around) instead of like the rim of a cup... (it's wierd)

 

DOH... It WAS backfiring... when I actually listed to it from under the hood (I couldn't even leave the car before... since it would just stop anyway), a bunch of loud possing noises seemed to be coming from the AFM and rest of the intake system...

So I guess that means I have a timing issue (I haven't done my timing yet).

I did manage to run it long enough to get it into operating temperature though... so I know it at least doesn't start to overheat during idle...

Funny thing is that it sort of sounded like a V8 when it was doing that :p

I'm glad my engine hasn't exploded yet...

 

You know, it might be pinging due to running really rich from the vac leaks.
Why are you even running the car without all the vac lines in place or properly removed?

 

the factory rear diff mounts have "castle' like ridges on them

 

To make sure it runs at all :p

This is the first time I've actually put an engine together with the intention of running it...



Oh... I thought they did, until I looked up the replacement parts on Mazdatrix...

 

Hmm... anyway, I set my CAS towards the Retard side (it was near the middle), so hopefully that'll at least make it backfire less... I'll try it again tommorow.


I have another question. My one OMP line that was kinked is somehow the only one that actually has oil in it... The other's are bone dry.

When the car is off, are they supposed to be dry, and is the kinked one retaining the oil because of the kink, or is there something wrong with my other lines or injectors? Maybe the other injectors aren't getting any vacuum?...