The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Hey all, looking for some tips. I just got my car back together, and am working out the kinks. It starts with some trouble due to as fresh rebuild, but the idle is crap. I did a bunch of mods to it, so dialing it in now is a bit new. Here is a list of mods that are currently runing.

13bt Street Port
Emissions disconnected - but is visable. (maybe left some hooked up that dont need to.
Throttle Body mod
Paralel Fuel System
Aeromotive FPR
Stock Fuel Pump (but I have a walboro going in soon)
Garret T4 hybrid Turbo
Banzai TID
Greddy FMIC
Apexi BOV
Innovate Wideband = reading 14.? to 16.? at idle warmup.


Anyhow, it bucks, backfires a bit. I do not understand the wideband readings yet. My TPS seems to be set right, but hard to tell right now. I am pretty sure I stabbed my cas right. I can not bring the idle to 750 without it dieing. Any other info I can help with please ask. Thanks all.

Goofy

Idle is supposed to run rich at warmup, so it sounds like you're not getting enough fuel.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

try removing the rest of the emissions stuff, capping off what you dont need and check all your vac lines

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

That is kinda what I am thinking. My FPR is set to about 36psi. The gas flows well. The filter is brand new. I had the injectors cleaned two years ago, and only put a 100miles on them till now. They are stock 550cc. I guess I should pull them out and make sure they flow.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

widebands take a min to warm up and function correctly...if its backfiring it might be too much fuel...smell the exhaust for fumes. Maybe try bypassing the Aero FPR to elimate the chance that its set too high/low....just until you get the car starting, idle, and free reving smoothly. Are you using standalone? I doubt you will be able to get a 750 idle with a street port...they tend to like to idle around 1-1.3k

New setups are always a pain because more then one thing changes at a time and you have no clue whats causing problems until you start playing around with junk. =P

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

might want to try and search the standalone section----i have an E6K so i got most of my tuning info from the haltech section

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Understand about the FPR, but it is set good. I let it warm up for quite a while. I am not useing a standalone, just the factory comp. I have the Greddy UE Manage, but not installed yet.

I had my idle on my last streert port set to 750-800. But now have much removed.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

So you are trying to idle a streetport, with larger injectors, on a stock ECU, correct?

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

what have you changed since your last setup? removed emmisions? tb mod? change ports? I dunno...use that 8mm screw on top the TB to get it to idle and then use the fuel controller to get the idle as lean but smooth as possible. The idle will prob drop as you change the idle mixture.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

stock inj and comp.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Ah, I misread the thread... Muh bad.

Is the 36 PSI your static pressure or your idle pressure?

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

That is my idle pressure. Gotta go to doc, brb.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Seems a bit high for idle pressure... I am trying to recall what my static is..

piercdawg

If he's got the Greddy FMIC it means his BAC valce prob isnt hooked up. Is it capped? If so then the 8mm nut with the screw with have to open the throttle a lil bit, to bypass the bac valve. But then your timing gets screwed up & your TPS will always be offf idle.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I had a tube welded for the bac valve. Although, when I unplug it it makes no change to my idle. But, it is hard to tell with things so off.

bigdongsr94

can someone tell me why the timing would be off from removing bac

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

My static pressure is 70psi, and my idle is 36psi.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Well, found three little vac leaks. That helped the idle a lot. However, i have a feeling my TB's butterflies valves could be off. I am going to swap my TB's at lunch and see if that helps.

Idle air/fuel reading is good, but when I drive it, way lean.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

sounds like you still have some leaks somewhere then, that or the pressure regulator is not hooked up correctly causing fuel pressure to drop rather than rise under a load.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I feel the TB is off because the return on it sticks here and there. Like the
valves are a little off so they are not closing right. I have to push on the valve to close the throttle.


But, how would the FPR be hooked up worng to cause the opposite affect?


BTW KARACK, I was just in your area not to long ago. Bought that CF Hood from EDOMUND.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

not sure how you have it hooked up but some of the passages in the rats nest do not see positive pressure or do not work at all until the solenoid operates. it's just a thought, not sure if you have it hooked up past the throttle plates or not.

i live about 2 blocks down the street, you should have let me know you would be in the area.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Hmmm, ok. the only vacume I have hooked up, are the two coming off from the side of the UIM/LIM for the BOV, and the Pressure sensor/boost gauge. Then the one form the lim to the FPR. The rest are plugged as far as i can tell. The rats nest is present, but not functional. It does sound like I have something hooked up worng, The other TB made little difference if any.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Karack,. sounds like this is what you are talking about?

PRIMARY INJECTOR BLEED SOCKET - there is a vacuum nipple in the middle of the bottom of the intake manfold, near where the primary injectors are. This vacuum hose goes to the upper intake manifold. This line actually pulls vacuum from *before* the throttle plates, and uses this differential pressure to help atomize fuel at certain conditions. This is a Good Thing. Just run the hose like stock, and make sure it goes to the same vacuum nipple on the upper intake manifold as stock.