Wankel7

Well, the Techedge V1.0 wideband is up and running! Finally! I built the kit my self and it works! I am simply amazed.

When I drive down the road I see an Air/Fuel ratio! No more blinky light BS! It is so nice. I did a full throttle pull and it was running pig rich. Right now I have it at +/- 0 at 5000, 6000, and 7000 rpm. The only hard part is for me to trust my new tool. I am taking away fuel based on the readings on something I built I will probally trust it in time.

Need to get a friend with a laptop so I can log a 3 rd gear pull. Check the AFR and work with the SAFC. Ah, it is bliss! I will get a pic up of the display in my car.

James

Jimmy325i

What did that kit cost?

Wankel7

Well, after everything was said and done (This includes buying solder, gun, stands, power supply to bench test the kit, wires, braided nylon sleves, the sensor ($125), solder tools) about $375. I am happy with it!

Techedge now has V1.5 out which does all sorts of cool things mine dosn't

James

Jimmy325i

damn, that's cheap. considering I have power supply, multimeter, and solder tools...

I was thinking widebands were like $800.

Wankel7

Yeah man! Hook your self up!

http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/

Jimmy325i

I never said I had the $300... And I already found the site. I know someone who might want to hook me up with unlimited usage of the sucker if I built it for him though.

Bambam7

I just finished building mine. The wideband PCB is fine, but the small IC chip on the display board is blown!! I have emailed techedge a bunch of times in the last few weeks and have gotten no repsonse. I'm loosing patience with them. I don't know if it's a programmed chip or not- I don't think so. I could even pick it up locally for a few bucks I'm sure, but I havn't even gotten a damn answer from them yet- not pleased.

Have you compared the output on the wideband to the voltage on your stock o2 sensor?? I'd be REALLY curious as to see how far off the stock sensor can read!!!

HAILERS

The only thing that has to be programmed is the 16F84A-4/P (pre-programmed, -20/P may be supplied

The rest is off the shelf, like the LM358.

The site says they are down for a couple of weeks for holiday. Something like that.

Well, like this ***Tech Edge will not be shipping any orders between 21 December 2002 & 12 January 2003. If you order any time between now and 12 January 2003 your order will be delayed. We apologise in advance for any inconvenience, and wish you a happy festive season. ***

Bambam7

Ya know what, I saw that exact line in big letters on thier page, but didn't read it all becase I thought it was just the standard holiday disclaimer.... I didn't know it went untill Jan 12, and I only thought it applied to shipping and such- not my concern.
OK, I will wait then! I was wondering what the problem was... I always got quick resonses from them in the past-!!

Bambam7

Ya, after doing my own digging... that chip (LM358) is just an IC version op-amp. Usually retails for around 50 cents!
Radio shack doesn't carry it though.... a bunch of others, but not that one. I'm sure any electronics supply place around here will have them. It's a common chip.

Cheers!

bambam7... you should be on the mailing list for techedge.

anyhow they were closed for vacation from dec 23 to around jan 7 if i remember...

i'm personally waiting for v2.0 should be mint.

HAILERS

About these words on their site: (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((The sensor reads the partial pressure of gases in the exhaust and infers the AFR, rather than by measuring some magical AFR directly. This may be an issue on forced induction, and in particular, on turbo-charged engines.

AFRs will indicate richer than they are, causing you to run leaner than you think.
Lean AFR's will be richer (or less lean) than indicted.
A solution is to ensure you locate your sensor away from the turbo, and certainly on the exhaust (low pressure) side of the turbo rather than the engine side)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) )))))))))

That worries me a bit. Mine's located in right behing the turbo exaust and the 02 just below that. I'm gonna weld another bung on waaaaaaay down the downpipe and see if there is any difference in readings.

Pinfield357

hey wankel if you ended up paying 370 neways y didnt you just buy it pre constructed for approx 330?

Freaky Monkey007

What is up with the photo cell(dont remember wut its really called) on the outside of the LCD display??

Cheers!

Hailers,

i would say don't worry about it, its not like you are trying to run a labratory and trying to measure the a/f ratio to the cloethes 1/100th of a percent.

three reasons i see why this doesn't matter:

1.) the guy who run's techedge Peter uses it on a turbo charged VW golf running high boost. If he is comfortable with it then i'm too.

2.) i wouldn't try to tune it to exactly stoich, especially for a turbo charged car, i would tune close to it so i have margin, i think tuning to exact stioch is too risky

3.) the motech systems and other expensive system ie FJO use the same design as techedge, after looking at the FJO i have a feeling its just a repackaged assmembled WB made from teh origainal DIY WB o2 sensor before techedge came around. the schematics have been on the net for a while now.

so if you see there is a problem move the sensor farther away. Personally i would have it 2/3 down from teh turbo near the end of the downpipe, so i can jack the car up near the passenger side and unscrew the o2sensor and put in a plug if i please.

Bambam7

Its for auto dimming. It dims at night.

Freaky Monkey007

From looking at it it looks pretty easy to just take it out of the case and mount it flush inside the car somewhere.. Is this true or am i just stupid??

HAILERS

I run ten psi and never see higher than 11.2 during high boost, uphill, 110 plus mph. On the whole I see the high tens during boost, momentarily going to 10.1, then to the high tens, and at highest rev's about 11.2 max.. I also do not use a waldo fuel pump,just a normal turboii pump. Soooooooooo...when I see a disclaimer like I pasted in the earlier post, it makes me wonder.

Just to make sure there isn't any doubt.....I do see 14.7 while driving around at steady throttle and lower figures when I step on the gas. Just making sure you don't think I'm just seeing 11.2 or whatever all the time.

Its Peter who put that disclaimer on his site. I've been running this thing for over a half year now. I leave it in place. Gonna find out how long one of these sensors lasts. I expect 50,000 plus. Gonna get the wire welder out when it gets warmer and move it down the pipe to the other end and see what happens.

Wankel7

Not sure what that price is you put up. Is that for the 1.0 or 1.5 and does that have the display and the cables?

If it is say a 1.0 prebuilt with display and cable from the controler to the sensor. That price should not include the $125 sensor + $10 for shipping. Bringing up the total to $465. Also, I didn't know to much about this type of work until I did it. Now it is done and works. I have learned so much from this project I would not trade it for anything

James

Wankel7

I placed my sensor in the pipe between my downpipe and the cat. About 5" back from the downpipe. Had the heat shield cut away and the bung welded in there.

Also, those running a wideband. When cruising.....does it stay locked on 14.7 or does it flucuate +/- .2 or so?

James

HAILERS

Fluctuates a bit from 14.7 . A solid 14.7 indicates a lockup, in my opinion. Due to too low a voltage for the unit.

HAILERS

I just went for interstate ride. In fifth, three grand, cruise turned on, 02 sensor connected up, the thing ranged b/t 14.2 to 14.8. The last number changes about four times a second. Recon the ECU and o2 are working good.

At idle, warmed up engine, I have the idle at 12.8/13.0. I can lean it out to 14 and a touch, but the idle isn't what I desire. Gets bumpy.

Just riding down the street in forth gear, holding a steady forty mph for the law dog behind me, it runs 14.2 to 14.5 on the whole. Always a flickering up and down at the 4 times a second.

Driving along at say 70mph, come to a downhill run, I let off the throttle just enough to maintain my 70 mph, the afr goes to almost a full point richer, to 13.4 or so. I found this interesting. I always thought easing off the throttle like that on a downgrade would make it leaner and give me better fuel milage. Not so. I think its some kind of anticipatory circuit built in the ECU. Like an accelerator pump of sorts, so when I get back on it, the car won't stumble from being too lean. Who knows.

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

Nice.
Good to see someone that goes out and 'field tests' the equipment for us.

HAILERS, the 10's you see during boost, is that by choice (ie with EMS)? or is that the stock ecu?

HAILERS

Its the stock ECU. The car is not heavily modified. Its a year and a half year old rebuild. The Mazdatrix 2 1/2 inch downpipe and presilencer (part number 16207) http://www.mazdatrix.com/r-extii.htm , the Walker Dyno Max from Rotary Performance in Dallas, stock fuel pump, DIY FCD from http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/fcd/diy_fcd.htm.

I did not want to go whole hog with the three inch from RB/Mazdatrix because all I was looking for was a little more ummmmph. Not out to conquer the world and spend the Haile fortune doing so.

I've run this thing as described above with a mechanical fuel pressure gauge tied to the wipers and never ever seen a degradation of the fuel pressure. It climbs along with the boost pressure and reaches close to 50 psi at full boost.

I bought the DIY AFR from http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbo2.htm because I read all the warnings on this site about blowing the engine up do to it being too lean and all the talk about how you need a Waldo fuel pump or the thing will be toast in short order. As you can see from the other post, I'm not running lean. But I'm paranoid. All the stories wern't from people on crack. They know what they are talking about, I assume.

Soooooo, I figure as long as I don't get the three inch exaust, all will be well. Oh, forgot about the K and N and AutoMeter(embarassing to admit) boost gauge(I've used other gauges to prove the 10 plus psi boost).

As you can see, I'm a novice booster. Just want a little more uuuumph for a daily driver that has to be able to go to Corpus Christi (and back) without blowing up.

Oooops, forgot. I had the turbo rebuilt down in Waco Tx. I forget the name of the place right now. Good joint.

EDIT: http://www.majesticturbo.com/

Wankel7

I see about the same on cruise.

Hailers, I remeber you posting in here about the car going rich as you back off of the gas. And I have tried to duplicate that in my car. It won't do it.

If I am going down the high way at 55 and let off the gas the AFR starts up from 14.7ish to the point it goes to 25 and the car is in full fuel cut off because I have let off the pedal. I have no idea why your car does that.

Sorry man....i remeber you had reasoned it out it was cool. Now I have the monkey wrench

I still have not done WOT testing. I have just gotten a job that is a long way away. I may not have time to tune my car Just enough to find a storage shed and cinderblocks for her

James