arghx

iTrader: (3)

I didn't completely understand what was going on in the video. Get in the car. Push the pedal down halfway and keep it there while you crank it over. Does it help at all?

What is the resistance across the water thermosensor terminals during a completely cold start? There is a spec in the FSM. I think you should completely replace this sensor with a brand new OEM one.

You still have not listed your modifications in explicit detail! What emissions equipment have you removed?

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

my 88 TII used to do that, and for some reason if i pumped the **** out of it it would start.

My 86 with TII guts was doing that up until a couple days ago, it ended up being that one of the primary injectors was not getting any voltage and it was starting off of one rotor. You might want to pull the upper Intake manifold and check out your injectors. With key on they should all have a positive signal on them, but no negative, when cranking the primarys should have both positive and negative giveing you 12+ volts. Also while you are there pull the primary injectors, and crank the engine fuel should spray. You could also put the secondaries in the primary spot and check them the same way.

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

I tried it. still doesnt work. Even as of making that vid I still havent been able to start the car.

ParadoxToday

Just a wildcard, has this engine been rebuilt? Because I have heard if a engine starts getting hard to crank, a rebuild is awaiting =\

arghx

iTrader: (3)

it's not getting fuel.

With the key in the on position, jumper the yellow two prong connector on the passenger side shock tower. Do you hear the fuel pump running?

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

Yes. I have done that. I also think it is a fuel issue. I changed the pump and the filter. Guys, this engine ran perfect in my other car. It was only after the swap did it start doing this. It cant all the sudden need a rebuild. I mean it is possible but VERY unlikely. Something here is connected wrong or missing.

I have jumpered that wire a few times and one time it was to the point of not starting at all and I jumpered it and got fuel pressure and then bam it started great. Then after that it was no longer the fix. I even tried starting it with the wire jumpered and nothing. I will try it again when I get home.

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

you think it could have anything to do with my ECU?

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

I would seriously recommend dumping the CEL codes. That might point you in the right direction. (1) Short the Initial Set Connector (2) Turn the key on but dont try to start the engine and (3) Watch the CEL and count the flashes you get. Long flashes are 10's short ones are 1's, so a long one followed by 3 short ones would be code 13. If there are more codes they will also flash out after a short pause. Then look up the codes in the FSM. Seems better than shooting in the dark.

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

i have no idea how to do any of that.....

ParadoxToday

try resetting your ECU? not sure. but I hope you get this problem fixed. This is good material just incase any of these tragedys occur to me.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

yup mine is doing the same damn thing as yours now, sometimes I hate that I love these cars.

They are seriously like a bad girlfriend, they **** you off to the point where you just want to get rid of it, then they run good and you can't imagine getting rid of it.

Malikai229

iTrader: (4)

This link should tell you everything you need to know to check the cel code.

http://www.banzai-racing.com/FD&S5_error_codes.htm

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

dude, you are awesome.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Since you haven't mentioned trying to do it, I think it may be a timing issue. Does the ignition break up or detonate at/above 7-8k once started?

Re-stab the CAS. The car will have a extremely hard time starting if the timing is off. When you put it in, the 2 marks on the front pulley, normally your suppose to put it lined up with the yellow one. Don't do this. Put it in the middle of the 2 marks, zero the CAS and put it in. See if this helps.

My friend with a 1st gen was having the exact same problem. We were out cranking the car for easily almost 30 minutes trying to move the dizzy to different positions with it ALMOST starting but not quite firing all the way up. I finally had to call a good friend who told me to try this and the car fired up first try.

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

how would my car jump the CAS on its own? Also why would this make a difference once the car is started and warm?

Once I have the car started and warmed up, turning it off and starting it back up is no problem. Depending on how long it has sat will make a difference on how much longer than usual it takes to crank it up.

I did the Fuel pressure regulator test by clamping off my return line and crank it and it has not started at all since.

The vid you are seeing it one of the worst times it has done this. I need to take the battery to advance to have them charge it before I give it another shot.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Maybe its possible that you pulled the CAS when swapping the motor into that car (when you say all this started happening). I've been told that you can start a rotary on almost every dizzy tooth except for like 3. It just gets harder the further you are away from the correct setting. Mine was actually I think 7 teeth off when I first put the car back together. It started really rough but ran.

I'm just saying it can't hurt to check the timing.

And when warm, the car should start no problem. If your having trouble with hot starts, its usually because of leaky injectors.

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Fuq6rL7Kog


Here is another vid. I tried to pull the CEL codes and the light was not flashing at all. As a matter of fact when i plugged it up I keep getting a bunch of clicking noise from whatever this is in the vid.

Can you guys tell me what this clicking is?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

if the timing is retarded far enough (due to incorrect CAS installation) you will definitely struggle to start cold. Did you ever remove the CAS or adjust it in any way? Did you ever swap crank pulleys or pulley hubs (where the front bolt goes) at any point?

Because you swapped the engine some stuff could be messed up wiring wise. the CELs aren't that useful IMO because all they tell you is whether you have something unplugged or not (or internal short). A lot of that can be diagnosed without an error code.

the clicking is from some of those emissions solenoids freaking out it sounds like.

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

so those solenoids are okay then? I have heard them clicking alot when I try to start the car and it doesnt start.

I pull the EGI fuse and it stops.

Even then I wasnt able to get a CEL code at all. All I got was that clicking from the solenoids which was louder than normal.

I never removed the CAS or anything from the motor. I popped it out of one car and a few hours later had it in the next.

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

Also something else to keep in mind that if my timing was off that fuel would have to be going somewhere and when I pull the spark plugs they are a little moist, but not covered like they are when the thing is flooded.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

Did you pull the injectors and watch to see if they were spraying. If so, and they were spraying why are you still thinking you aren't getting fuel.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

ok mine fixed itself. Apparently thats what you need to do, just let it fix itself.

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

Ok my car is fixing itself as we speak. Pulling the injectors would be a pain. I would need to pull the intake manifold off.

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

ok. So yesterday I went to play with a few more things. I changed out the leading coils just for good measure.

I also had my battery charged and gave it a shot. It would not start and I had the pedal about midway down and it wasnt helping. I tried a deflood just in case and nothing helped.

I then pulled the plugs to make sure it wasnt flooded and the plugs were a little moist but not at all soaked. I went ahead and cranked the engine without the plug in for about 45 seconds.

I put the plugs back in and the car started up. Could be coincidental, but if was badly flooded my plus would have been soaked, and considering the amount of time I had been cranking it there should have been alot more fuel than that.

So here is where it gets interesting and I will upload the vid later.

When I drive around 5-7k rpm I notice a very slight hesitation like it isnt getting enough fuel.

Also here is another kicker. When I open the hood and push the throttle all the way down very quickly the revs actually drop, like it is not getting enough fuel at all. If I do it smoothly I have no problem at all.

So I am thinking I simply am not getting enough fuel.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

check your tps with an ohm meter, look for flat spots.