Brad89RX7

I recently changed to using Royal Purple Synthetic Oil
and thought I was doing good when I have driven 2000
miles and consumed about 1/2 pint of oil. I didn't realize
this car was 2 cycle and should be using more oil than
a normal car. So I have been told that my OMP may not
be working and I may need to start premixing.

Also my TPS has been malfunctioning wich I am replacing today.
My plugs have been fowling about every 1200 miles and
I have blamed it on the TPS.

Could the plugs fowling be caused by a bad OMP not delivering enough oil to the fuel?


Brad89RX7

Fingers

No, but its 99% certain to be the synthetic oil that you're using. You're not supposed to use synthetic oil in rotaries for this very reason.

Brad89RX7

I've had the plug fowling problem for the past 5000 miles.
I've been running the synthetic oil for the past 2000
and have just notice I haven't had to add the monthly
qt of oil I use to. I use to have to add a qt of oil about
once a month/1000miles.

Are you saying that the synthetic oil may not work with
the OMP system? Or that the Synthetic oil is fowling the plugs?

Brad89RX7

Fingers

Synthetic oil does not burn as cleanly as dyno juice. Leaves alot of carbon behind. As rotaries inject oil into the cycle, you can expect alot of carbon buildup.

Now then... are they fouled with black/white/light brown crud?

Brad89RX7

The last time I pulled them they were fowled with a heavy
black carbon build-up.
I think what I'll do is, change out the synthetic back to
the Castrol 20-50W I will use and run the two cycle
mix until I see if the OMP is working again with the reg
oil.

I don't think it will hurt to use premix until I find out what's
going on.

Brad89RX7

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

pre-mix will not hurt anything. Search for my thread on doing pre-mix.

Do not use synthetic oils on any rotary unless you are running ONLY pre-mix and have removed the MOP system all together.

Santiago

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

You guys have to take into consideration those tests where done 10-20yrs ago... There are many different opinions on whether to use or not to use syn in the "crankcase" when using the omp..

Brad89RX7

I'm in contact with the Royal Purple Rep, who is saying
Synthetic oil is great for Rotary Engines. They have a
Rep who specializes in these Engines who is going to
call me later. But in the meantime I'm using premixed
fuel.

Brad89RX7

Icemark

That would be 100% wrong...

As covered in countless threads, Royal Purple Synth as been proven over and over to be fine for use in a Rotary engine (as has Amsoil, Redline, Mobil1, and Neo).

Blanket statements like that are ill responsible answers.

Icemark

That too would be wrong. There is nothing wrong with using a Good quality synthetic oil in a Rotary, and there has been proven minor HP increases when using a Good quality synthetic oil with a properly operating MOP system.

Icemark

Pretty much right there, suggests that the problem is not in anyway related to the use of the Synth oil.

Your plug fouling (not fowling- using the word "fowling" suggests chickens are getting on your spark plugs) problem is from some other issue, such as a stuck on MOP or mixture/burn issue.

Brad89RX7

I'm hoping that my new TPS arrives today. I am thinking
maybe that may help my fouling problem being the TPS was
giving a constant closed throttle reading when doing the
resistance test. When doing the light test it would give no reading at all.

I just pulled a leading plug and after 50 miles it's already has
a considerable amount of carbon build -up. Right now I
am running without a TPS because it was killing my Idle.

Brad89RX7

hugues

well, let's see, what would cause fouling in no particular order:

mixture too rich (welcome to the club)
weak/bad ignition
too much low-rev driving
wrong type of plugs (hot/cold)
TPS disconnected

Hugues -

Crionics

Everything else seems to have been covered, but 1 more points. The rotary is, in fact, a 4-cycle engine. Do a little research into the Otto Cycle, and you will se that all 4 stages are there.

ProjectRESuperG

I agree with ICEMark, I believe synthetics have come a long way.

I have emailed both Redline, and Amsoil, since I can readily get these, and they have both responded that it is perfectly fine to use synthetic oil in rotaries.

Also, have you read this link?

http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

I forgot who fwd me the link, nor do I endorse it completely, but from the information, it does look like synthetics don't leave much ash behind, which is probably what you should be concerned with.

I will move to Amsoil soon, I use their Series 2000 motor oil in all my other cars, kicks ***.

BTW Anyone used this?

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

I want to try it, but would appreciate if someone who's tried it let me know how it works.

Brad89RX7

I have installed my new TPS and set it with the two light
method. Car idles much better and seems to be performing
smoothly. I won't know until I get a chance to take it out
on the road tonight. Get off work at 5:00 today and will
give it a work-out.

I'll continue to watch these plugs and see if there is a difference.

Thank's for all the replies,

Brad89RX&