Well Jacob, if you were familiar with how octane works, why were you stuffing it into your poor, defensless N/A?



Much love bro!

Jarrett

 

This is kind of funny... just a few days ago a friend comment that my car shot 2 3' white flames..... like completly white.... hmm.... i need a tune up.

 

i run 93 octane seem to run just fine!! besides the price which is $1.49 p/g(pretty cheap, since all octanes r the same price where i go) what harm would 93 do?

 

No harm.

This "octane costing power" is blown WAY out of proportion, a comment made by probably one person on this forum, and passed around like the high school ****.

The company I work for has done two dyno's on two cars, an S4 and S5 N/A.

In both cases, the differences between power and torque curves running tanks of 94 and 87 octane were negligible, with gaps only as large as 0.9 of a hp. This minimalistic differences are easily chalked up to varience in the conditions between runs.

In both examples, the higher octane were on the high sides for power. In each case, three back-to-back runs were made with both 94 and 87 in the tank for each set.

One major aspect that is left out in all this discussion above is that many premium octane fuels have performance enhancing additives, which negate any difference in power lost from the higher octane.

To boot, the higher octane engines run more smoothly, and the fuels often conatain additives to help prevent carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, and gum and varnish in your injectors.

Premium will make the same amount of power. It is also good for preventative vehicle maintenance. The real question is really:

Cost vs. Gains, and nothing of performance.

 

Read much?

 

how often are you guys spitting flames, and HOW are you spitting them?

just between shifts on occasion?

i can never tell when im doing it - nothing out of the ordinary ever changes, but people still tell me it happens.

 

Mine shoots them everytime i shift over like 7-8 grand..... and if i just rev it up it will shoot them too.... its loud... really load.. i was in a full parking garage like 3 days ago and did it and i swear every car in the garage had an alarm going off.... it was insane....

 

Jacob just has a gutted precat, no main cat, and just regular old pipe back to one dynomax muffler. He shoots flames all the time now. And theyre loud too. I know hes got all his accesories pulled but I think he still has his ACV.

I also believe that having single exit exhaust will yeild more flames than duals.

 

i have duals on an 87 n/a no cats with 3.5" mufflers and i shoot like 2 foot flames on every shift. If running good it will shoot them enough to see them in my rearview mirror. only downside is its burning the **** out of my bumper.

 

Do you have your ACV working?

 

All the time. Well then, it appears that the title to this thread has been answered.

Thanks for checking up on me!

Jarrett

 

i have to say something, Your car will last you way longer, if you run the same gas in it all the cars life, ive done this with 3 vehicles and all of witch have never had an engine problem, (only u joints and over powered releated problems) So if you have been runnin 93 octane in it all the cars life, keep runnin it, and Never just change the fuel every fill up if ya want your car to last, i believe its the same on oil also, i will always trust Kendal never let me down and i run very cool.

 

we gutted my precat
gutted my main cat
got a 2.5" 'catback' welded to a magnaflow canister muffler (2.5" inlet, 2.5" outlet) single on the passenger side.
the ACV and airpump are still there (but airpump isnt delivering air to the cat for obvious reasons) all emissions solenoids and rack is still there and functioning.

when i downshift, i usually rev match. so lets say i'm driving at like 4k in 3rd gear and revmatch into second at about 5500-5800 rpms, it makes a very very loud popping sound and a big flame pops out of the back. and that flame is followed by maybe one more little flame and some little pops that get smaller as i get farther down in the RPMs.
it also happens if i sit there and rev. i can rev to about 6-7k and just barely touch the gas pedal as the revs fall about 1-2k rpms and a big flame will pop out.

we can take some pics of the exhaust setup or whatever if anyone is curious.

 

ok, i have (from the stock manifold down) a big stainless downpipe (no cats, not even gutted ones) that meets up to the rest of the stock exhaust system (meets at the y pipe and goes to the stock mufflers).

ive been told a few times that ive shot a few doozies.

but i never notice it ever, nor do i hear any popping of anysort

BUT

today i drove home with my windows up, and i noticed every shift past 7k, i get a loud popping that i dont ever notice with my window down.. (i usually ALWAYS drive with my d/s window all the way down).

unfortunately i never see any flash or anything out my back window.

im certian if i got more straight thru design mufflers then it WOULD. but the stock baffles in the muffler can i think really just make the flame kinda fizzle out the tailpipe than shoot out in most cases.

i do plan on redoing my whole exhaust system soon..



i was mainly curious on how to NOT shoot flames to keep law enforcement from wanting to inspect my vehicle.

.. and also how TO shoot flames when you get a tailgater..

 

I pop flames when shifting hard (6500 or so rpm), next noticed it when downshifting like Jacob said. My Bov isn't vented yet, so more flames to come! Poor rear bumper lol... Oh and I have the full RB turbo back... No acv, rats nest, charcoal, egr etc.

 

thats the problem right there. those stock canister mufflers are WAYY restrictive. we filled one of mine up with water after we took them off the car and could never get the water out.