trueimport

iTrader: (8)

Sorry Ted,
You're right I should have just started a new one but I figured since that thread died almost a month ago and it did have some good info as well as knowledgeable people in it that I would try posting in that one.


I've asked this question before in other threads and I've also done A LOT of research on this as well and I still cant find a good answer to why my temps run hot.

Here's what I'm running..... new OEM thermostat, new OEM water pump, Koyo radiator, Ford Taurus 2 speed fan, GP Sport front bumper, Greedy 2 row FMIC, stock oil cooler, both upper and lower radiator panels, Tweakit Gilmer drive pulley kit and Autometers "Traditional" temp gauge.

The problem I continually have is that in around town traffic the temps are fine even when in boost I don't see temps higher than around 195*F. Its when I get on the highway and just driving at a steady speed (NOT in boost) that I see the temps get up to about 215*F or higher and it was on the cool side last night too. Why is this happening? I just cant figure it out. I thought maybe it had to do with my old Black Magic fan so I swapped it out for the Taurus one and I thought, okay maybe its where I originally had the temp sending unit mounted which was on the top passenger side of the radiator right next to the upper radiator hose so I relocated the temp sending unit to the stock location on the goose neck right on top of the thermostat and the temps still reads hot. How do I keep the temps down when on the highway? My fan is on a switch and I've tried to turn it off on the high way and the temp goes up so that's not the problem. I cant even begin to imagine how hot the car would get if I was to actually drive it hard on the highway or if it was hot outside!

Can the temp be directly effected by timing?
Is it possible that the gauge itself is faulty?
In the past there's been a lot of talk about that the proper coolant mixture as well and I would like to know what's the most consistently used one for hot clement areas would be?


Please guys any help or suggestions would be great.

Thanks,
John

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

this is a good question. all I can say is my '87 TII does pretty much the same thing, gets real warm on the highway and cools down as soon as the speed drops significantly. the only thing I can think of is maybe the transmission generates a lot more heat when you're going faster...

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

The factory coolant temp. sender for the gauge is just above and to the left of the oil pressure sender near the heater hose on the driver's side. The coolant thermo sensor for the Fuel Injection is at the back of the water pump outlet, and the fan switch (on cars with it) is mounted on top of the thermostat housing. You can verify this by unplugging the sender. Sorry, can't answer your original question, though.

trueimport

iTrader: (8)

Ok let me clear this up then, I have it located here....


PS. this is not a pic of mine. This is just to show location

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Do you have the radiator tray under the car? Mine is missing and I have the same issue on the highway, I can see my temps go way up. When cruising around town my temps are normal, even when boosting.

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

He says upper and lower radiator panels, not sure if he means undertray though.

I don't have my stock undertray on either. I'm currently having a custom one made, but I too have seen similar temperature behavior. My guess is an undertray will solve these cooling issues.

Trueimport, thats where my coolant temp sensor is too.

trueimport

iTrader: (8)

Yeah the front black plastic one is on but the ever commonly missing rear aluminum one is in fact missing LOL. I also have an upper carbon fiber one. The rear one from what I've found on all my other 7s is not a major factor in cooling but hey I could be VERY wrong I just never needed it on my other ones. Plus its really hard to find.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Doh I'm an idiot. I tend to jump to the end.

trueimport

iTrader: (8)

hahahaha LOL not a prob

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

There are plastic versions. I still have mine(plastic one), it just won't fit anymore. So I have to have a new one made.

I have read numerous posts by people like Kevin Landers(Rotary Resurrection) stressing the need for the undertray for adequate cooling. So I'm gonna put my $ on the undertray being the problem solver here.

Trueimport, you can buy my plastic undertray for a low price. PM me if you want it. I'd have to find it too.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

in my situation I still have the undertray...

Hellkat

i have a similar setup and last time i experienced that problem was because air trapped in the radiator. Granted, i do have a vented hood to help with cooling issues :/

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

Good thing I had no actual $ on this issue then!

Flash

iTrader: (2)

Do you still have AC in the car?

trueimport

iTrader: (8)

Guys I "DO" have the plastic tray/panel/cover or what ever you want to call it. Our cars came with 2 under body panels. One was a black plastic piece that covered from the front bumper to just behind the oil pan (which I have) then there was an aluminum panel that went from there to further back under the fire wall to FULLY enclose the engine bay. The aluminum one is rarely seen anymore for what ever the reason. But needless to say I DO have the black plastic panel under the car as well as a carbon fiber upper radiator panel.

The panel is not the issue here. The issue is some thing else then previously stated in my above posts I just can’t seam to put my finger on it.

For those of you that have already stated that you have a similar problem on the highway what temps are you guys hitting at the hottest point and what kind of driving are you doing at the time?

trueimport

iTrader: (8)

No there is no AC and no PS

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

For what it's worth, the picture above shows the location used for the factory fan switch on cars with the auxiliary electric fan. It is the natural place to put a temp sensor because the coolant just came out of the engine.

I've noticed the temp. go up on the highway, but since I don't have an auxiliary gauge, I can't comment on the temperature difference. I have always figured, that even a lot of air is passing by the radiator, the RPM's tend to be more constant, so the engine is putting more constant heat out, and eventually the thermostat opens more and stabilizes the temp. Just my educated guess.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

+1 undertray. I was gonna say that just from thinking about it (high speed not low... so must be air flow related... bing, undertray). EDIT:... but it seems like you have one.

Okay, for what it's worth my car gets a lot hotter on the freeway when going uphill. Even a mild hill can be noticeable. Doesn't happen in the city.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

I ran without an undertray for over a year (didn't know about it and didn't come with one) so I don't think that would be your problem even if you didn't have one. This was on the stock radiator also. But... that's my car.

RotaMan99

I know you have the undertray on but is it sealed against the radiator? The FMIC will hurt cooling performance quite a bit since it will slow the airflow to the radiator down.

Make sure that the airflow can't go around the FMIC, and when it passes through the FMIC, that its ducts to the radiator without ANY way for the airflow to go around the radiator.

Look at the link in my sig to see if that helps you out. I have never delt with a cooling issue with a FMIC before.

trueimport

iTrader: (8)

Does anybody else have any other suggestions for me?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I've heard people recommend Evans coolant, but I'm not sure how much it will help you. It's also expensive.

RoughRex

Same situation here on my '88 N/A. It ran fine when I got it so I know it has to have gone wrong... New Water pump, OEM T-stat, CSF Copper/Brass core 2 row radiator, have upper and lower radiator panels. I don't know what temp I'm actually running at but the needle on my gauge has gotten perilously close to the top mark in the "normal" range a couple of times. Yesterday I corrected my T-stat installation by rotating it so the air bleed hole is at the top but it didn't seem to make a difference. I have also had the cooling system flushed and filled with 50/50.

I think my next step is to remove and inspect the water pump housing. I saw a post from Sure Shot a while back where he said that his water pump housing had become pitted on the inside and was disrupting the flow of coolant causing his TII to overheat under load.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

water wetter (SP?)???

RoughRex

Honestly guys, I don't think water wetter is a legit answer unless you are running a heavily modified engine. I much prefer to fix the problem rather than treat the symptoms.