swingking

iTrader: (1)

i hooked up an amp and sub on my fc and it was running really good. i then tried to ground everything on the car ie alternator, bklock, tranny, leading coil....etc..and for a while it was good. then i pulled the aftermarket cd player out and bolted it to the stock mount of the car and after that, every single fuse i put in starts blowing up....now i checked the positive, ground and remote wires and none of them are broken....any one know why this is happening? do i need a bigger fuse?

Icemark

every single fuse for the radio???

Or just the audio fuse?

TOOSHORT_88

iTrader: (15)

Ya my meter fuse keeps blowin too (7.5 fuse)
do your guages work?
only guage that works on my 88 gxl is the mph nothing else works and as soon as i put in a new fuse it blows instantly any ideas why?
any ways around this?

Mobilemick

Radio could be at fault, remove it and see if fuse still blows

DO NOT PUT BIGGER FUSE IN

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Check for melted wires and shorts. Especially ones that lead from the battery to the fuse that is then grounded out some where.

TOOSHORT_88

iTrader: (15)

ya i disconnected the radio (took it out) and taped up 2 wires that were exposed, put in fuse , blew instantly, so i dont think its the wires in the radio..
I will follow the wires from battery for sure..

I thought it was a wire inside of the car, have not even took a gander under the hood hopefully i find the wire...

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Depending on what wires were exposed and how long you may have fried somethin in the radio. but tracking down electrical gremlins is a pain and time consuming, but easy to fix... one of the reasons why it costs some dough to get it figured out. Good luck with it.

Icemark

No, shorts that blow fuses are very very simple and if it takes more than an hour, you don't know what you are doing.

You simply look in the FSM to see what circuits are on the fuse, and check each one.

The other end of fixing shorts is that 95% of the time it is because of some recent work done improperly on the car. That shortens (pardon the pun) tracing down the issue even further.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Then I have no idea why it took me so long on my previous vehicle considering I didn't do any modifcation to where the short and melted wires took place and I do know what I'm doing. Although I isolated the circut on which it occured I still had no idea that the problem was located in the hatch section of the car, hidden in the frame of the hatch. Only after eliminating every other easy to get to location of the car, checking and eliminating the superficial fused wires did I end up looking towards the hatch. I imagine that the wiring on these cars would be under the same physical properties since the FC3S is older than that car.

depending on how the wires of those circuits are run it can take upwards of an hour or more depending on hardware being removed to inspect the wires. I imagine if you had help in that portion of the tear down that it wouldn't take as long.

swingking

iTrader: (1)

the fuse that blows is the one ON the amp...everything else works fine, radio, speakers,....only the amp's fuse blows...and the positive cable is not grounded anywhere else

(its an aftermarket amp that hooks up to my sub)

Icemark

If the fuse on the amp is blowing (and not really 2nd gen RX-7 oriented) you have either a bad/blown amp or shorted speaker wires (shorted to the cars body/metal).

swingking

iTrader: (1)

k thanks...i guess i need a new amp

Icemark

did you check your speaker wires at the amp with a multi-meter to confirm that they do not have continuity to ground??? I'd do that before getting a new amp, because it will blow out the new amp as well