Why does my AC blow hot?
06-05-05, 05:40 PM
#1
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Why does my AC blow hot?
When I turn my AC on it blows hot air, versus could, how broken is it? And how much will it cost to fix? I'm not even gonna ask if it is or isn;t broken. Any solutions?
06-06-05, 12:35 AM
#6
Rotary Freak
Before you look into recharging it, inspect the system for leaks.
In fact, there is a leak test dye you can purchase (or have a shp do it for you) before you go further. Might as well be sure it is tight first.
Then, I would check to see if the compressor is turning when the switch is on.
In fact, there is a leak test dye you can purchase (or have a shp do it for you) before you go further. Might as well be sure it is tight first.
Then, I would check to see if the compressor is turning when the switch is on.
06-06-05, 12:36 AM
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ermm got any pics ot ur set up? I wish i had one of mine so i could give u a ref.
the only thing i could tell you would be to go to a shop and have them check it out and tell you . most places around here will do the conversion for around $100-$170 plus the 134a but its cheaper in the long and short run.
R12 cost around $30 per lb and 134a at the most $10lb installed. so for 4 lbs you're looking at a diff of $120 to $40.
at least around here. not sure if these prices would be universal around the country
the only thing i could tell you would be to go to a shop and have them check it out and tell you . most places around here will do the conversion for around $100-$170 plus the 134a but its cheaper in the long and short run.
R12 cost around $30 per lb and 134a at the most $10lb installed. so for 4 lbs you're looking at a diff of $120 to $40.
at least around here. not sure if these prices would be universal around the country
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06-06-05, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKTOPTRVL
Before you look into recharging it, inspect the system for leaks.
In fact, there is a leak test dye you can purchase (or have a shp do it for you) before you go further. Might as well be sure it is tight first.
Then, I would check to see if the compressor is turning when the switch is on.
In fact, there is a leak test dye you can purchase (or have a shp do it for you) before you go further. Might as well be sure it is tight first.
Then, I would check to see if the compressor is turning when the switch is on.
It's so wierd, I'd expect some cooling, or maybe nothing at all, when I turn on the AC, but the fact that it gets warmer... WTF? Unless... it's not possible the guy I bought it from screwed it up, is it? He swapped out the engine, so could he have connected something wrong? Doubtful, but still... anyway...
If the compressor is bad, should I just rip it out, and wield all the horsepower a freewheeling pulley, no longer attached, has to offer?
Last edited by JSmith0101; 06-06-05 at 12:44 AM.
06-06-05, 12:44 AM
#9
Rotary Freak
If the compressor is bad, I would get a rebuilt and keep the system.
Some people say that they have no problems running around without AC, but I like that cool blast - especially when I am running down the highway with the top down
As to if you can live without the system, that is something only you can know. Why don't you just drive through June and July without fixing it, and then you will know if it is bearable or not.
Some people say that they have no problems running around without AC, but I like that cool blast - especially when I am running down the highway with the top down
As to if you can live without the system, that is something only you can know. Why don't you just drive through June and July without fixing it, and then you will know if it is bearable or not.
06-06-05, 12:48 AM
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I live in Wisconsin, so it never gets too hot. But it's not the heat that gets you, it's that garsh darn humidity, and even with open windows (or top down), AC kills the darn humidity like... like... like something that needs to get killed... like 1989 Ford Festivas challenging me.
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