Whoa Whoa Whoa!!!
#1
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Whoa Whoa Whoa!!!
Well I brought my car to Mazcare last weeke because I thought the thermo valve was keeping the secondary throttle plates from open properly. Well, I just got an email from Charlie a few mins ago and this is what it said:
We have spent a bunch of time getting your car squared away but it is really good now. We first removed the upper intake manifold to repair and set up the throttle body. We replaced the vacuum thermo valve that broke (which was not causing the driveability issue), replaced the missing nut on the double throttle cam, cleaned and set up the double throttle and cold start mechanism, reinstalled upper intake and set up throttle sensor. After test driving, the problem was still present as well as having a check engine light on. Scanning showed 2 codes, knock sensor, O2 sensor. the knock sensor wire was nearly broken in half and the O2 wire was not feeding into the ECU. Both were repaired. Driveability problem was still present. Fuel pressure was tested and showed 46psi at loaded conditions. Timing was checked next and this is when the problem was found and repaired. The leading coil had failed so only the trailing ignition was working. The trailing ignition fires much later than the leading ignition by 15 degrees which would attribute the weak performance. Another smaller problem that was found and corrected was a missing restrictor orifice in the hose going to the boost sensor. This needs to be there for good driveabilty due to an erratic vacuum signal that a rotary engine produces. the resriction has a smoothing effect. The car idles nicely now and runs well. the boost level is at 7psi which is very conservative and safe since the AFC is not tuned. It is recommended that you not raise the boost w/out properly tuning the AFC using a good quality wide band O2 sensor.
Kinda long but, whoa. Im really glad I didnt try and get in and do the repairs myself.
We have spent a bunch of time getting your car squared away but it is really good now. We first removed the upper intake manifold to repair and set up the throttle body. We replaced the vacuum thermo valve that broke (which was not causing the driveability issue), replaced the missing nut on the double throttle cam, cleaned and set up the double throttle and cold start mechanism, reinstalled upper intake and set up throttle sensor. After test driving, the problem was still present as well as having a check engine light on. Scanning showed 2 codes, knock sensor, O2 sensor. the knock sensor wire was nearly broken in half and the O2 wire was not feeding into the ECU. Both were repaired. Driveability problem was still present. Fuel pressure was tested and showed 46psi at loaded conditions. Timing was checked next and this is when the problem was found and repaired. The leading coil had failed so only the trailing ignition was working. The trailing ignition fires much later than the leading ignition by 15 degrees which would attribute the weak performance. Another smaller problem that was found and corrected was a missing restrictor orifice in the hose going to the boost sensor. This needs to be there for good driveabilty due to an erratic vacuum signal that a rotary engine produces. the resriction has a smoothing effect. The car idles nicely now and runs well. the boost level is at 7psi which is very conservative and safe since the AFC is not tuned. It is recommended that you not raise the boost w/out properly tuning the AFC using a good quality wide band O2 sensor.
Kinda long but, whoa. Im really glad I didnt try and get in and do the repairs myself.
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Originally Posted by full-cruise
thats whats up.. im going to be droping my car off to get checked out soon and have what evers wrong taken care of.. so how much did this set you back?
#6
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Originally Posted by RETed
You would've had problems finding the leading coils weren't firing?
-Ted
-Ted
Well, at least it's fixed and he's nice enough to post the findings.
Last edited by Turbonut; 05-27-05 at 12:44 PM.
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