2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Who Revs to 3k and then turn off their car???

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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 10:25 AM
  #26  
Lodivigo's Avatar
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
If the engine is revving down from 3k the second you shut off the key, any last bit of "excess" fuel shot from the injector has a chance to get spit out to the exhaust instead of pooling up in the housing. That's what I'm getting from that, as far as the rad. temp switch, it's a good theory...but doesn't explain why 8's have this problem.

Not saying that it couldn't be the software though...For the first few months after they came out we had a lot of them come in for flooding problems. Shortly after that a WDS ECU recalibration recall/update came out and we started flashing any 8 that came in for service or flooding. We don't get as many in for flooding as we used to, could be the ECU flash, or the owners are better informed now....who knows. They do still come in on the hook from time to time though.

Last edited by Lodivigo; Oct 20, 2004 at 10:32 AM.
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 12:14 PM
  #27  
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From: Sherbrooke,QC,Canada
anyway, reving to 3k before shuting it off work fine.
My car is always flood, and that way, it dont flood anymore.
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 12:17 PM
  #28  
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From: 831 salinas
well, i have never had a problem with flooding but i know alot of people do. i replace every single thing from fuel tank to fuel lines. when i did my t2 cinvertion my car flooded and i could not start it for about 2 months so i just replace everythign, but then i just took it to mazda cuz i did not know what it had, so yeah lol, 200 dollars later and engine blow only lasted 2 hours when i got the car back from mazda, hey TO the dude that works at mazda, when u guys fix a car do u have to drive it? because i got my car 5 days later and i turn the car in with a full tank of gas got it back with the fuel light on :-(. i think they drove the **** out of it and gave it to me. because on the way back home my car turn off and that was it. i hade to swap my n/a back but i was wondering can u use engine restorer ? or what ever it's called?
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 12:31 PM
  #29  
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Yes, we do test drive the cars if they come in with a driveability problem, but only 30 or 40 miles at the most. Sounds like someone went a little crazy with yours.
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 01:13 PM
  #30  
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From: ATL, GA
Originally Posted by slidebabyslide
well, i have never had a problem with flooding but i know alot of people do. i replace every single thing from fuel tank to fuel lines. when i did my t2 cinvertion my car flooded and i could not start it for about 2 months so i just replace everythign, but then i just took it to mazda cuz i did not know what it had, so yeah lol, 200 dollars later and engine blow only lasted 2 hours when i got the car back from mazda, hey TO the dude that works at mazda, when u guys fix a car do u have to drive it? because i got my car 5 days later and i turn the car in with a full tank of gas got it back with the fuel light on :-(. i think they drove the **** out of it and gave it to me. because on the way back home my car turn off and that was it. i hade to swap my n/a back but i was wondering can u use engine restorer ? or what ever it's called?
What? I think you just figured out how to convert a fart into typewritten words.
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 01:17 PM
  #31  
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally Posted by jon88se
But flooding is not usually caused by leaky injectors - the real cause is usually low compression and/or not warming the car up. My car will hot start just fine, idle vacuum is good, it drives well and is just out of break-in so I assume my compression is just fine. BUT, if I must shut the car down before it's warm, I use the 3K method and it works. You're allowing the engine to spin down from 3K and that decel speed lets it drink any excess fuel as opposed to shutting it down from idle.
NO... 80% of the time flooding is caused by low compression or leaking injectors, and only about 10% of the time by some user error (such as cold starting and cold stopping the engine, or using the throttle to start the motor) and the last 10% of the time is other electrical or mechanical issues (such as sparkplugs with more than 15K miles on them, or a bad ECU or coil voltage issues).

Hey guys, I know most of you are too young to have bought a FC new, but they (much like the RX-8) almost never flooded. Yeah occasionally a lame *** driver uses the throttle when starting, BUT BY NO MEANS IS FLOODING COMMON OR RIGHT other than that.

Low compression is without any doubts the biggest cuplrit. And unless you have new housings, and new (or resurfaced) endplates when rebuilding, you will have low compression for at least the first 1000-2000 miles (and I have seen old housings sometimes take 5000 miles to build proper compression.

And on a personal [non moderator, not speakling for the RX-7Club in any means, shape or kind] note; a 3K rev at shut down is just about the stupiedst thing I have heard on this board in a long time. Nothing like dumping more fuel into the motor just before shutting it off. Just plain dumb!

And that article that Hailers posted... WTF is with that? Where in any Mazda owners manual is what they claim is written there??? Someone must be smoking some crack. Lifting the throttle after reving it to 3k... yeah just dump a load of gas down the intake and turn off the motor...That will prevent flooding...sure it will

Last edited by Icemark; Oct 20, 2004 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Oct 21, 2004 | 02:19 PM
  #32  
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From: Sherbrooke,QC,Canada
Anyway,
I rev my car to 3k before turning it off, when it is at 3k, I turn it off, let it die, and it never flood anymore.
So im happy that way.
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