Who has a SuperNow kit installed?
#1
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Who has a SuperNow kit installed?
I'm looking to buy the SuperNow angle kit. However, SuperNow says that cutting off 1cm of the Tie-Rod is required.
My question is, has anyone installed the kit and not cut anything? Did it affect the ability to do the alignment with the rod not cut? Thanks for the help.
My question is, has anyone installed the kit and not cut anything? Did it affect the ability to do the alignment with the rod not cut? Thanks for the help.
#2
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Do you understand why you'll need to cut them?
I do, it's because when you add the spacers, it'll cause the wheels to be pointed out, to correct this you need to screw the tie rods into the tie rod ends. There's probably not enough adjustment to do that without bottoming out the tie rods in the tie rod ends. That's why the rods need to be cut. Even if you can get away without cutting, it's not that good of an idea, as you'll be limiting the range of adjustment for later on if it's needed.
Just cut it like the directions say. New tie rods aren't that pricey anyway.
I do, it's because when you add the spacers, it'll cause the wheels to be pointed out, to correct this you need to screw the tie rods into the tie rod ends. There's probably not enough adjustment to do that without bottoming out the tie rods in the tie rod ends. That's why the rods need to be cut. Even if you can get away without cutting, it's not that good of an idea, as you'll be limiting the range of adjustment for later on if it's needed.
Just cut it like the directions say. New tie rods aren't that pricey anyway.
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i believe the supernow and the gp sports angle spacer kits are the same and both require cutting. most people i know who have them just cut the tie rod, not a big deal as black91 says.
did you already purchase the supernow? been thinking about getting them but im cheaping out and going with just washer type spacers.
did you already purchase the supernow? been thinking about getting them but im cheaping out and going with just washer type spacers.
#4
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Yup, already knew why the rods are cut. That is why I asked if it affected the ability to align. I was told that some people don't cut them. That's why I was asking if anyone installed them without cutting. I don't have them yet so I don't know what the instructions say. But I don't have to many tools. Cutting the end without tearing up the thread engagement sounds tricky. Or what end do I need to cut? Dont both ends have threads?
Hey Jason, that s13 looks familiar, do you have a white convertible now? I didn't buy them yet, but I do want the adjustable end links. My rods have some angle on them. Do you have to cut with the washers?
Hey Jason, that s13 looks familiar, do you have a white convertible now? I didn't buy them yet, but I do want the adjustable end links. My rods have some angle on them. Do you have to cut with the washers?
Last edited by xzyras; 09-19-06 at 09:03 PM.
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yeah ive got the white convertible now, met you a couple times. with the washers you just put them in between the tie rod and the tie rod end. john (orange fc) runs them and they are way cheaper than the whole kit thats why im going that route for now, but if you want serious steering angle and also replace the stock tie rod ends, go for the supernow.
when you say you want adjustable end links, you mean the bumpsteer adjustment? that definitely can make the steering feel nicer when your car is low, however i took off the bumpsteer adjustment on my s13 since i didnt like how it felt. there are a couple other people i know who have done the same.
as for cutting, i think you would be fine with a dremel and a cut-off wheel. i can find out exactly what you need to cut, ill ask henry sometime.
when you say you want adjustable end links, you mean the bumpsteer adjustment? that definitely can make the steering feel nicer when your car is low, however i took off the bumpsteer adjustment on my s13 since i didnt like how it felt. there are a couple other people i know who have done the same.
as for cutting, i think you would be fine with a dremel and a cut-off wheel. i can find out exactly what you need to cut, ill ask henry sometime.
Last edited by jason L; 09-19-06 at 09:26 PM.
#6
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Originally Posted by jason L
yeah ive got the white convertible now, met you a couple times. with the washers you just put them in between the tie rod and the tie rod end. john (orange fc) runs them and they are way cheaper than the whole kit thats why im going that route for now, but if you want serious steering angle and also replace the stock tie rod ends, go for the supernow.
when you say you want adjustable end links, you mean the bumpsteer adjustment? that definitely can make the steering feel nicer when your car is low, however i took off the bumpsteer adjustment on my s13 since i didnt like how it felt. there are a couple other people i know who have done the same.
as for cutting, i think you would be fine with a dremel and a cut-off wheel. i can find out exactly what you need to cut, ill ask henry sometime.
when you say you want adjustable end links, you mean the bumpsteer adjustment? that definitely can make the steering feel nicer when your car is low, however i took off the bumpsteer adjustment on my s13 since i didnt like how it felt. there are a couple other people i know who have done the same.
as for cutting, i think you would be fine with a dremel and a cut-off wheel. i can find out exactly what you need to cut, ill ask henry sometime.
On cutting; I don't have either tool. I only have hand tools. I guess I'll have to have a shop cut them for me or something. I don't know though, seems like a lot of work for 300 bucks. Might just do the washers for now. Im not sure yet.
You going to compete on the 23rd?
Last edited by xzyras; 09-19-06 at 09:35 PM.
#7
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If you don't cut them, the tie rod ends cannot screw in enough, and you end up with too much toe out!
This is the reason why the ends must be cut.
I don't know why you guys are paying for this crap, since a bunch of washers does the same thing for less money.
I guess you can brag you got the kit installed on the car or something...
-Ted
This is the reason why the ends must be cut.
I don't know why you guys are paying for this crap, since a bunch of washers does the same thing for less money.
I guess you can brag you got the kit installed on the car or something...
-Ted
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#9
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Hey Ted, havn't talked to you in a while. I didn't buy the kit yet. This is why I am asking. I also wanted the new adjustable tie-rod end. You don't think its bad for the rack or tie-rod to have such angle on the tie-rod? My car is pretty low.
#10
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Our 20B FC runs the shimmed rack.
It seems to work better, and the owners likes it better.
The relocated hub points induce some weird Ackermann at extreme lock, so we went away from that design.
Just keep the washer stack under 0.300" or run it about 1/4" thick.
This induces about 5-degrees more angle, and that's good for most people.
Good luck!
-Ted
It seems to work better, and the owners likes it better.
The relocated hub points induce some weird Ackermann at extreme lock, so we went away from that design.
Just keep the washer stack under 0.300" or run it about 1/4" thick.
This induces about 5-degrees more angle, and that's good for most people.
Good luck!
-Ted
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Roger that. I'll get me some washers. Thanks! Still have to deal with the rubbing after the added angle.
Last edited by xzyras; 09-19-06 at 10:04 PM.
#14
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Originally Posted by eatmyclutch
How big is your turning lol
With it shimmed, you end up with 40 to 45-degrees if angle.
btw how come you aren't an admin yet, ted?
-Ted
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Originally Posted by RETed
The relocated hub points induce some weird Ackermann at extreme lock, so we went away from that design.
Just our of curiosity could you please explain this statment, I tried to figure out what ackermann is but I found recursive notation and I'm not sure the relevence of that.
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rubbing after angle can be fixed with a BFH! and if you mean rubbing on the fender itself, my fenders were black after the last event and thats at stock angle. i know john used to run just the washers, maybe he runs angle kit now.
with the supernow angle kit you will get more than the washers, but i think you will be fine with just the washers for now, should help a lot.
with the supernow angle kit you will get more than the washers, but i think you will be fine with just the washers for now, should help a lot.
#17
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i bought those spacers 2 years ago and i still can get my stupid steering rack to come apart. the tie rods wont seperate i even drilled the pins out...so they still arent on my car
#18
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Originally Posted by jason L
rubbing after angle can be fixed with a BFH! and if you mean rubbing on the fender itself, my fenders were black after the last event and thats at stock angle. i know john used to run just the washers, maybe he runs angle kit now.
with the supernow angle kit you will get more than the washers, but i think you will be fine with just the washers for now, should help a lot.
with the supernow angle kit you will get more than the washers, but i think you will be fine with just the washers for now, should help a lot.
GXLbuscuit:
I havn't taken my rack apart yet, but what pins did you drill out?
Last edited by xzyras; 09-20-06 at 01:04 AM.
#19
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Originally Posted by calypso
Just our of curiosity could you please explain this statment, I tried to figure out what ackermann is but I found recursive notation and I'm not sure the relevence of that.
Basically, at very high steering angles, the front tires (or actually just one of them) would just drag instead of pivot.
-Ted
#20
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bfh=big ******* hammer
if you are worried about the threads put a nut on the tie rod end and leave as much as you want cut off exposed, then when your done and you unthread the nut it will take the burrs off the threads. run the nut back and forth a couple of times and voila, you're done. he is talking about beating the fender well in btw, not the fender, see where it touches, remove wheel and smash in until rubbing stops. if that doesnt sound to your liking, cut the fender well out with a cut off wheel and make new ones out of sheet metal. hope i was of some assistance. salute
if you are worried about the threads put a nut on the tie rod end and leave as much as you want cut off exposed, then when your done and you unthread the nut it will take the burrs off the threads. run the nut back and forth a couple of times and voila, you're done. he is talking about beating the fender well in btw, not the fender, see where it touches, remove wheel and smash in until rubbing stops. if that doesnt sound to your liking, cut the fender well out with a cut off wheel and make new ones out of sheet metal. hope i was of some assistance. salute
Last edited by hkp; 09-20-06 at 07:00 AM.
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Originally Posted by hkp
bfh=big ******* hammer
if you are worried about the threads put a nut on the tie rod end and leave as much as you want cut off exposed, then when your done and you unthread the nut it will take the burrs off the threads. run the nut back and forth a couple of times and voila, you're done. he is talking about beating the fender well in btw, not the fender, see where it touches, remove wheel and smash in until rubbing stops. if that doesnt sound to your liking, cut the fender well out with a cut off wheel and make new ones out of sheet metal. hope i was of some assistance. salute
if you are worried about the threads put a nut on the tie rod end and leave as much as you want cut off exposed, then when your done and you unthread the nut it will take the burrs off the threads. run the nut back and forth a couple of times and voila, you're done. he is talking about beating the fender well in btw, not the fender, see where it touches, remove wheel and smash in until rubbing stops. if that doesnt sound to your liking, cut the fender well out with a cut off wheel and make new ones out of sheet metal. hope i was of some assistance. salute
exactly what i was thinking.....
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Originally Posted by RETed
Our 20B FC runs the shimmed rack.
It seems to work better, and the owners likes it better.
The relocated hub points induce some weird Ackermann at extreme lock, so we went away from that design.
Just keep the washer stack under 0.300" or run it about 1/4" thick.
This induces about 5-degrees more angle, and that's good for most people.
Good luck!
-Ted
It seems to work better, and the owners likes it better.
The relocated hub points induce some weird Ackermann at extreme lock, so we went away from that design.
Just keep the washer stack under 0.300" or run it about 1/4" thick.
This induces about 5-degrees more angle, and that's good for most people.
Good luck!
-Ted
what if you make it exactly .300 thick Is the upper tollerance or should you definitly stay under that. I can make some that are exactly .300 and I want as much angle as I can get.
#25
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so yeah istill ahvent managed to get my tie rods to come off the rack... 3 years later the supernow drift angle kit still sits in my storage bins..... i have tried propane torch/drilling the pin out, pb blaster.. it just wont move.