Who has changed their OWN clutch?
08-22-03, 12:41 AM
#26
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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Umm... I'm going to pay my uncle $200 to do the job. Forget doing it myself! I don't wanna die if the car crushes me... and I can't afford all those SST's (Special Service Tools). The manual says I need a Brake for $117.51(CAD), a Puller $141.77 and a Box wrench $161.23!!!
What tools did you guys use?
And lastly... to confirm... are flywheels from the dealership really cheap? Like $61 CAD?!
What tools did you guys use?
And lastly... to confirm... are flywheels from the dealership really cheap? Like $61 CAD?!
05-01-07, 08:33 PM
#30
2 Rotors, 1 Turbo
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Two weeks! BUT, I had the wrong flywheel and clutch! So I sold it and bought a new one from Rx7Store.net. Then it took me about an hour. But, my motor was on a crate, and not in the car. WHAMMY!
Edit: WHAMMY! I didn't even notice the dates! HAHAHA, so old.
Edit: WHAMMY! I didn't even notice the dates! HAHAHA, so old.
05-01-07, 08:37 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by Rxmfn7
I always just lay under the car and lower the transmission onto my chest, and then slide out from underneath it. On a Rx-7, the tranny is only about 70lbs, so it isnt that bad. I made the mistake of trying that on my dads 72 Ford F-150 4x4...I though I crushed my ribs. Man that thing had to weight like 300lbs...
what a supa rugged story
05-01-07, 08:49 PM
#33
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Lol yeah, I've benched trannies in a lot of times, kinda tough on the heavier ones. Mashed my fingernail one time trying to put my 3-spd manual back in my truck, damn thing fell over and squashed it 
Most imports are easy though, they're fairly light. If I'm laying underneath the car I usually put it up on my knees to hold it up if the car is high enough. Makes it a lot easier.
Most imports are easy though, they're fairly light. If I'm laying underneath the car I usually put it up on my knees to hold it up if the car is high enough. Makes it a lot easier.
05-01-07, 08:50 PM
#34
I knw wht u did last sumr
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If you have a friend or two to help you it really isn't too bad. This month I've had the "opportunity" to pull and reinstall two FC tranny's.
The tranny isnt really that heavy, but spend the money and either rent a tranny jack or just buy one!!! You'll be glad you did and your friends won't hate you after the job is over! I would probably go ahead and replace the rear main seal while youre there, Atkins sells one if your interested.
The tranny isnt really that heavy, but spend the money and either rent a tranny jack or just buy one!!! You'll be glad you did and your friends won't hate you after the job is over! I would probably go ahead and replace the rear main seal while youre there, Atkins sells one if your interested.
05-01-07, 09:02 PM
#35
A tip for you not so He-Man types,lol.
You don't need a tranny jack to put the trans in the position you want it. Sometimes not a jack at all.
If you get 2 bolts that fit the bellhousing about 3.5 inches in lenght and cut the heads off of them. You screw them into the bellhousing, 1 at the top left and 1 at the bottom right. You use those for locator and support pins. You lift the trans onto the pins and they align the trans so that it will go in with little or no effort.
If you want you can cut a slot in the top off them to extract them with a screwdriver afterwards but I just use a pair of pliers to back them out.
Another thing that I do with FC transmissions before I try to put them back in is to remove the trans crossmember from the trans. I have found because the engine does not drop when you remove the trans that if the crossmember is still attached on reinstallation that the trans has to be pushed excessively upwards to get it to line up with the splines on the clutch disc. By removing it this gives you alittle more variance when placing the trans on the locator bolts.
For a flywheel stopper I use either a alt adjustment bracket or air pump one. You open up the mounting hole with a drill bit to accomodate the bolt that you will put thru the bracket on to the trans housing. The adjustment end allows you to attach it to various parts of the flywheel to keep the flywheel from moving.
You don't need a tranny jack to put the trans in the position you want it. Sometimes not a jack at all.
If you get 2 bolts that fit the bellhousing about 3.5 inches in lenght and cut the heads off of them. You screw them into the bellhousing, 1 at the top left and 1 at the bottom right. You use those for locator and support pins. You lift the trans onto the pins and they align the trans so that it will go in with little or no effort.
If you want you can cut a slot in the top off them to extract them with a screwdriver afterwards but I just use a pair of pliers to back them out.
Another thing that I do with FC transmissions before I try to put them back in is to remove the trans crossmember from the trans. I have found because the engine does not drop when you remove the trans that if the crossmember is still attached on reinstallation that the trans has to be pushed excessively upwards to get it to line up with the splines on the clutch disc. By removing it this gives you alittle more variance when placing the trans on the locator bolts.
For a flywheel stopper I use either a alt adjustment bracket or air pump one. You open up the mounting hole with a drill bit to accomodate the bolt that you will put thru the bracket on to the trans housing. The adjustment end allows you to attach it to various parts of the flywheel to keep the flywheel from moving.
05-02-07, 03:21 AM
#37
Originally Posted by casio
i'm 5'10," 120 pounds and had a little bit of trouble. doctor said my vision is still improving at a better-than-average rate, though. that 70 pounds sure does feel like a lot more on your face. . . well, good luck!
casio
casio
05-09-07, 10:50 AM
#38
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tranny
Thanks you guys for resurecting this thread, I'm a noob and trying to reseach this before I try it. I'm uesing the search like I'm supposed to.
Good tip on stopping the flywheel from moving, any sugggestions on what type clutch to get ? I found a T1 stage 1 kit for my 91 vert. for $134.00 shipped, is that a good deal?
In reading I've learned that I should replace the rear main seal on the motor as well. (minor oil leakage)
I got a 91 vert. just like mine as a parts car with 131000 miles on it, how do I check the tranny to make sure its good , my syncros are shot and I want replace it?
Good tip on stopping the flywheel from moving, any sugggestions on what type clutch to get ? I found a T1 stage 1 kit for my 91 vert. for $134.00 shipped, is that a good deal?
In reading I've learned that I should replace the rear main seal on the motor as well. (minor oil leakage)
I got a 91 vert. just like mine as a parts car with 131000 miles on it, how do I check the tranny to make sure its good , my syncros are shot and I want replace it?
05-09-07, 12:35 PM
#39
No money. No love.
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4 jack stands to support the car, 1 floor jack used to wiggle the tranny out....had to use 2 to put it back in, (1 is fine)...just remember to put the clutch disc in the corect way ...I put mine in backwards after dropping the car and putting my exhaust back on...so had to spend another day jacking the car up and removing the tranny and putting it in the right way.
...I put mine in backwards after dropping the car and putting my exhaust back on...so had to spend another day jacking the car up and removing the tranny and putting it in the right way.
05-09-07, 03:53 PM
#40
its an old thread, but good info
i use an old skateboard with 2 jacks bolted to it.. works perfect, only you have to make sure it doesnt fall off the jacks when youre lowering it. I think it takes me 4-6 hours to do start to finish with breaks
i use an old skateboard with 2 jacks bolted to it.. works perfect, only you have to make sure it doesnt fall off the jacks when youre lowering it. I think it takes me 4-6 hours to do start to finish with breaks
05-09-07, 04:29 PM
#41
anyone seen my head
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05-09-07, 05:26 PM
#42
i know nothing
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6 hours, jack stands, jack, bearing puller and some swearing
its not all that hard just make sure u have a shop manual
wait actually 7 hours it took me the extra hour to pick the rocks and crap out of my back i did it in my dirt driveway
its not all that hard just make sure u have a shop manual
wait actually 7 hours it took me the extra hour to pick the rocks and crap out of my back i did it in my dirt driveway
05-09-07, 09:19 PM
#44
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Ok, I resurrected this thread by mistake, i was searching for tips on changing my own. Here's how it went down. 2 jack stands in front, cinder blocks in back (i was uber careful) that part took me like 2 hours, had to drive 15 miles to find another jack stand lol. Then off comes starter (np) and exhaust (np but tedious, prolly another 1 hour including the heat shields) put a tall floor jack under the transmission to support it, then took 30 minutes to find some blocks of wood because i jacked the car up too high, . Finally get the trans out, discovering that it's by far easier to take out the top trans bolts from the engine bay, stopped for a moment to flush my eye, (trans fluid, ouch!) slid out trans, scooted out from under the car. removed old clutch components, went to bed (wasn't about to **** with the pilot bearing without a tool) got a slide hammer with pilot bearing adapter from autozone, yanked the pilot bearing, it was decent but why not replace it, grease up the new one and get to tapping it in... BTW 10mm 1/4 drive is TOO SMALL of a socket, I broke the pilot bearing... pulled it back out, spent 30 minutes getting all the pieces out. Drove the new one in GENTLY with an 11mm 3/8 drive socket, sanded the flywheel with some 80 grit to rough it up (it wan't too bad) and cleaned everything off, put everything back together, got around to bleeding the clutch system at noon on the third day ( I had my daughter that weekend so I took a lot of breaks) Everything is gravy so far.... Total time, probably about 20 hours of actual work, but I did the whole thing myself without serious injury.
. Finally get the trans out, discovering that it's by far easier to take out the top trans bolts from the engine bay, stopped for a moment to flush my eye, (trans fluid, ouch!) slid out trans, scooted out from under the car. removed old clutch components, went to bed (wasn't about to **** with the pilot bearing without a tool) got a slide hammer with pilot bearing adapter from autozone, yanked the pilot bearing, it was decent but why not replace it, grease up the new one and get to tapping it in... BTW 10mm 1/4 drive is TOO SMALL of a socket, I broke the pilot bearing... pulled it back out, spent 30 minutes getting all the pieces out. Drove the new one in GENTLY with an 11mm 3/8 drive socket, sanded the flywheel with some 80 grit to rough it up (it wan't too bad) and cleaned everything off, put everything back together, got around to bleeding the clutch system at noon on the third day ( I had my daughter that weekend so I took a lot of breaks) Everything is gravy so far.... Total time, probably about 20 hours of actual work, but I did the whole thing myself without serious injury.
05-10-07, 12:16 PM
#45
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i had my car on 4 jack stands.. 2 in the front and 2 in the rear. i just unbolted the exhaust system then the tranny and drivesahft.. took the driveshaft out first then the tranny came off. i used a jack to hold the tranny. then i pulled the tranny and did the clutch from there..but i had all the impact guns and neccesary tools..i dont know if u have all that..that is how i did it..
05-10-07, 01:08 PM
#47
^^^^^^^well
1. it's common sense (if not then you'll find out when the tranny gets stuck)
2. it's in the FSM (which details how to remove it)
3. thanks for mentioning something that some people might totally forget about or overlook.
RESURFACE YOUE FLYWHEEL
1. it's common sense (if not then you'll find out when the tranny gets stuck)
2. it's in the FSM (which details how to remove it)
3. thanks for mentioning something that some people might totally forget about or overlook.
RESURFACE YOUE FLYWHEEL
Last edited by phoenix7; 05-10-07 at 01:14 PM.
05-18-07, 08:18 PM
#49
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I've done this several times. Granted it's a race car and has a lot of extra **** out of the way.
- Support the car on jackstands, fairly high off the ground.
- I drop my exhaust, can't get in there without it. Maybe you can.
- Not sure how you're going to drop the tranny with the back part of stock heat shield on there, I remove mine (but mine's butchered to only cover what I need covered)
- Yank the driveshaft
- Drain the tranny. Gear oil smells like *** and is a pain to wipe off the floor, and you probably need to change it anyway. Before you drain it, check that the fill point isn't frozen (14mm wrench required)
- Disconnect the shifter, unbolt it from the tailshaft housing and pull up. Shifter gets in the way, easier to remove.
- Yank the starter. Pull all the electrical connections and speedocable off the tranny and move out of the way.
- unbolt the slave cylinder, move out of the way, don't remove the hose unless you plan to replace the cylinder.
- Support the rear of the tranny (not the mount) with your jack. Unbolt the mount from the car. Allow the tranny to slowly drop.
- Unbolt the top tranny bolts (I can get at mine pretty easily from the top, you'll probably want to come in from underneath with long extensions and a swivel.
- Raise the rear of the tranny so it's closer to level. Reposition the jack towards the center of the tranny.
- Remove the remaining bolts. Slide tranny off the engine carefully, and lower to the ground with jack.
With the tranny removed, remove the pressure plate (6 bolts) and flywheel.
Rented Pilot bearing pullers usually suck for the RX7, I've broken two before I broke down and bought the tool from mazda. If you don't need to replace it, leave it.
If you're swapping the flywheel, the tools mazda sells are kinda important, but you can do without. The engine stop is really handy though. The nut is essentially a 2 1/8" nut. You can buy a socket that size, and use an impact gun to zip it off. The fun part is getting the flywheel off the center shaft. You'll spend some time cussing over that.
Mazda claims some outrageous torque number for the center nut. in reality, I use the mazda tool, about 4 feet worth of steel and a socket on the end and tighten until I can't tighten anymore. Get your biggest strongest buddy to do this. Other methods would be to use a breaker bar, your 2 1/8" socket, and a length of steel pipe. Impact gun installation works I guess, but I trust leverage a lot more.
install your clutch and PP, using the clutch alignment tool (like 2 bucks at your local autoparts store). Torque the PP down exactly as specified in the manual.
Install a new release bearing and grease the correct friction points of the fork.
Have a friend stand at the front of the motor and push, without the tranny the engine will want to tilt past horizontal.
Slide the tranny in using a jack to get it close. Even still you'll need to help guide the input shaft in. Go slow, you don't want to damage your pilot bearing and have to yank it.
Once your close, you can use the bolts to help mate the two together. You don't want to use a lot of force here, if you have to something isn't lining up right or is jammed in the way, should mate very easily.
if you left the transmission mount attached, just use the jack to help get the tranny back in place and bolt it back up. Refill the tranny, install everything you took off, and you're good to go.
Good luck.
Paul
- Support the car on jackstands, fairly high off the ground.
- I drop my exhaust, can't get in there without it. Maybe you can.
- Not sure how you're going to drop the tranny with the back part of stock heat shield on there, I remove mine (but mine's butchered to only cover what I need covered)
- Yank the driveshaft
- Drain the tranny. Gear oil smells like *** and is a pain to wipe off the floor, and you probably need to change it anyway. Before you drain it, check that the fill point isn't frozen (14mm wrench required)
- Disconnect the shifter, unbolt it from the tailshaft housing and pull up. Shifter gets in the way, easier to remove.
- Yank the starter. Pull all the electrical connections and speedocable off the tranny and move out of the way.
- unbolt the slave cylinder, move out of the way, don't remove the hose unless you plan to replace the cylinder.
- Support the rear of the tranny (not the mount) with your jack. Unbolt the mount from the car. Allow the tranny to slowly drop.
- Unbolt the top tranny bolts (I can get at mine pretty easily from the top, you'll probably want to come in from underneath with long extensions and a swivel.
- Raise the rear of the tranny so it's closer to level. Reposition the jack towards the center of the tranny.
- Remove the remaining bolts. Slide tranny off the engine carefully, and lower to the ground with jack.
With the tranny removed, remove the pressure plate (6 bolts) and flywheel.
Rented Pilot bearing pullers usually suck for the RX7, I've broken two before I broke down and bought the tool from mazda. If you don't need to replace it, leave it.
If you're swapping the flywheel, the tools mazda sells are kinda important, but you can do without. The engine stop is really handy though. The nut is essentially a 2 1/8" nut. You can buy a socket that size, and use an impact gun to zip it off. The fun part is getting the flywheel off the center shaft. You'll spend some time cussing over that.
Mazda claims some outrageous torque number for the center nut. in reality, I use the mazda tool, about 4 feet worth of steel and a socket on the end and tighten until I can't tighten anymore. Get your biggest strongest buddy to do this. Other methods would be to use a breaker bar, your 2 1/8" socket, and a length of steel pipe. Impact gun installation works I guess, but I trust leverage a lot more.
install your clutch and PP, using the clutch alignment tool (like 2 bucks at your local autoparts store). Torque the PP down exactly as specified in the manual.
Install a new release bearing and grease the correct friction points of the fork.
Have a friend stand at the front of the motor and push, without the tranny the engine will want to tilt past horizontal.
Slide the tranny in using a jack to get it close. Even still you'll need to help guide the input shaft in. Go slow, you don't want to damage your pilot bearing and have to yank it.
Once your close, you can use the bolts to help mate the two together. You don't want to use a lot of force here, if you have to something isn't lining up right or is jammed in the way, should mate very easily.
if you left the transmission mount attached, just use the jack to help get the tranny back in place and bolt it back up. Refill the tranny, install everything you took off, and you're good to go.
Good luck.
Paul
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