who has the best ecu ?
#1
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who has the best ecu ?
hello all,
I haev posted here a few times. I will give a short summary of what happened and then any comments are appreciated..
-I bought an 88 turbo2 like 6 weeks ago,73000 miles, really nice. It was in need of cleaning,etc, and so I disaaembled almost every engine part and inspected it, steam cleaned it,and put it all back.
I corrected all the probs, except for the idle that was no idle at all. There never was an idle on the car. The guy had a kinked water hose that fed the fast idle cam, so the thermo thing would never rise. The "idle" was like permantly stuck at like 1500 rpm.
SO I get the car going, it starts well, { after new injectors,etc} revs thru all the ranges,yet the second I let the pedal go below 1000 rpm, it dies.
I rev it up to like 1400, turn on the AC and my lights, it drops like 500 rpm and doesnt go back up.
The BAC isnt working.. yet it passes all the tests.. ohms checks,it clicks etc.
it must be the wiring or the ecu that feeds the circuit
hmmn. ok ,pull the ecu. I notice someone had pulled the ecu before , a few bolts are gone.
I open it up. I get out my book and look it over. I immediately notice pins 3A, 2R,
are burned. so burned the yellow plastic around it is black... plus pin 2Q is smoked.. I cross reference.. thats the BAC voltage supply.
Pins 3A and 2R are the main grounds, for like the whole ecu. { maybe Im wrong thats what my book shows}
I turn the board over and theres a black burn mark like the size of a dime.
So, I think I found the prob. would anyone know more about these pins etc? THe grounds are shot. MAssive heat must have scorched it. The heat might have gone thru the board and done huge damage.
I need a new ecu.
So, where do I go for the best one?
do they still make new ones?
DO I avoid ones made by so and so?
DO I just go to mazda and get one..
Price isnt really an issue.. I want it right.
well, any comments are appreciated. thanks
mack
ps the ecu is a #333
I haev posted here a few times. I will give a short summary of what happened and then any comments are appreciated..
-I bought an 88 turbo2 like 6 weeks ago,73000 miles, really nice. It was in need of cleaning,etc, and so I disaaembled almost every engine part and inspected it, steam cleaned it,and put it all back.
I corrected all the probs, except for the idle that was no idle at all. There never was an idle on the car. The guy had a kinked water hose that fed the fast idle cam, so the thermo thing would never rise. The "idle" was like permantly stuck at like 1500 rpm.
SO I get the car going, it starts well, { after new injectors,etc} revs thru all the ranges,yet the second I let the pedal go below 1000 rpm, it dies.
I rev it up to like 1400, turn on the AC and my lights, it drops like 500 rpm and doesnt go back up.
The BAC isnt working.. yet it passes all the tests.. ohms checks,it clicks etc.
it must be the wiring or the ecu that feeds the circuit
hmmn. ok ,pull the ecu. I notice someone had pulled the ecu before , a few bolts are gone.
I open it up. I get out my book and look it over. I immediately notice pins 3A, 2R,
are burned. so burned the yellow plastic around it is black... plus pin 2Q is smoked.. I cross reference.. thats the BAC voltage supply.
Pins 3A and 2R are the main grounds, for like the whole ecu. { maybe Im wrong thats what my book shows}
I turn the board over and theres a black burn mark like the size of a dime.
So, I think I found the prob. would anyone know more about these pins etc? THe grounds are shot. MAssive heat must have scorched it. The heat might have gone thru the board and done huge damage.
I need a new ecu.
So, where do I go for the best one?
do they still make new ones?
DO I avoid ones made by so and so?
DO I just go to mazda and get one..
Price isnt really an issue.. I want it right.
well, any comments are appreciated. thanks
mack
ps the ecu is a #333
#3
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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There is a N333 on EBAY right now but someone is driving the price waaaaaay above its value. Check it out.
This site tells how to fix the bac transistor in the ECU. http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html
Yo. 2R and 3A are ECU grounds. They terminate under the intake manifold on a ring terminal. It needs to be attached. It sounds like someone either connected the batt cables *** backwards once or left the batt ground disconnected from the long starter bolt and tried to start the car. Something like that.
This site tells how to fix the bac transistor in the ECU. http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html
Yo. 2R and 3A are ECU grounds. They terminate under the intake manifold on a ring terminal. It needs to be attached. It sounds like someone either connected the batt cables *** backwards once or left the batt ground disconnected from the long starter bolt and tried to start the car. Something like that.
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