White goo in my oil filler neck?
04-26-02, 12:01 AM
#1
Rotary Freak
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White goo in my oil filler neck?
Yes thiers spots of white goo kind of like greas from a frying pan that has sat for awile. Thiers also some clear condensation in thier...Please reply to this post quick with any thoughts on what it might be...I got my engine rebuild 18,000 miles ago and has been running very strong ever sinse. Horse power wise...Please help.
04-26-02, 12:22 AM
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I have the same stuff in mine. It smells like gas. I got replies that said it is from my car running so rich. Does anyone know if this is true? And is it harmful to the engine or oil? I usually change oil every 2500 because of this.
04-26-02, 12:26 AM
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the frothy goo is condensation.. it's nothing to worry about.. Chances are you've taken several quick trips here and there and never really let the motor get to operating temps for any length of time before shutting off the car..
04-26-02, 12:45 AM
#5
Rotary Freak
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Yes but it just started doing this and has not done it in 18,000 miles. Something telz me that if this frofy goo gets inside my oil lines it will clog up...Its quite thick around the oil tube..
YES MINE DID SMELL LIKE GAS.....
WHATS UP... REALLY? (plays scary twilite zone music)
YES MINE DID SMELL LIKE GAS.....
WHATS UP... REALLY? (plays scary twilite zone music)
04-26-02, 12:54 AM
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Its all good bro.. its only condensation. regardless if your car got 1 mile or a 147,000+ like my 87TII (all original and stock) its perfectly safe and no the goo isnt going to clog your lines. only be concerned if when you change your oil and all the oil looks like goo
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04-26-02, 11:04 AM
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If you don't mind a little input from a Newbie...
The froth inside the cap is a water-oil suspension. As posted earlier, condensation is a likely culprit. No problem. Gas smell is likely no problem either. The wankel design allows for blow-by (fuel-rich exhaust) into the crankcase. The only problems associated with either can be detected by checking the oil.
Is the oil cloudy and milky? That condensation indicates water or coolant in the oil. Very thin oil with strong gas smell? worn seals and/or fuel system problems.
If neither of those exist, Motor on, dude!
The froth inside the cap is a water-oil suspension. As posted earlier, condensation is a likely culprit. No problem. Gas smell is likely no problem either. The wankel design allows for blow-by (fuel-rich exhaust) into the crankcase. The only problems associated with either can be detected by checking the oil.
Is the oil cloudy and milky? That condensation indicates water or coolant in the oil. Very thin oil with strong gas smell? worn seals and/or fuel system problems.
If neither of those exist, Motor on, dude!
04-26-02, 04:05 PM
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Not trying to start a war but Mr. Carlos is incorrect. Rotary engines do not blow combustion by-products into the "crankcase" as piston engines do. First off a Mazda Rotary engine does not have a crankcase in the conventional sense. The rotating mass in these engines is completely enclosed in the rotor housing/ end housing assembly.
As for "blow by", any of this in a rotary is "blown" over the apex seals and into the adjacent rotor face/combustion area. The side seals along with the oil control o ring/seal assure that none of the combustion gasses find their way into the oil pan area. This is the reason that a rotary engine does not get its oil dirty like a piston engine does. There are no appreciable amounts of combustion by-products in the oil in a properly functioning Mazda rotary engine.
Water is a major component of combustion and since a rotary does not allow this into the oil pan by its design, you should not be finding a water/oil emulsion in your filler pipe or on the cap. The Mazda has a purge system that opens the filler pipe to vacuum at engine speeds above 2,000RPM to "suck" moisture and the associated contaminants back into the intake manifold. This is much like the PCV system on a reciprocating engine. In any engine that undergoes a dramatic change in temperatures (such as cold weather ambient to operating temp) there will be a small amount of water condense in the oil pan/filler pipe area. Short trips that do not allow the oil to reach operating temps for a period of time aggravate this problem. The purge system is designed to handle this. Any greater amount of water such as from a coolant leak will overwhelm the ability of the purge system to remove it. You need to make certain your purge system is operating correctly.
I am not trying to scare you with this information. My intent is to simply educate those interested in learning. As for the others that say this scuz is normal in all rotaries, all I can say is that my '86 NA with an overhaul about 10K miles ago is perfectly clean and dry in the oil filler tube/cap area.
As for "blow by", any of this in a rotary is "blown" over the apex seals and into the adjacent rotor face/combustion area. The side seals along with the oil control o ring/seal assure that none of the combustion gasses find their way into the oil pan area. This is the reason that a rotary engine does not get its oil dirty like a piston engine does. There are no appreciable amounts of combustion by-products in the oil in a properly functioning Mazda rotary engine.
Water is a major component of combustion and since a rotary does not allow this into the oil pan by its design, you should not be finding a water/oil emulsion in your filler pipe or on the cap. The Mazda has a purge system that opens the filler pipe to vacuum at engine speeds above 2,000RPM to "suck" moisture and the associated contaminants back into the intake manifold. This is much like the PCV system on a reciprocating engine. In any engine that undergoes a dramatic change in temperatures (such as cold weather ambient to operating temp) there will be a small amount of water condense in the oil pan/filler pipe area. Short trips that do not allow the oil to reach operating temps for a period of time aggravate this problem. The purge system is designed to handle this. Any greater amount of water such as from a coolant leak will overwhelm the ability of the purge system to remove it. You need to make certain your purge system is operating correctly.
I am not trying to scare you with this information. My intent is to simply educate those interested in learning. As for the others that say this scuz is normal in all rotaries, all I can say is that my '86 NA with an overhaul about 10K miles ago is perfectly clean and dry in the oil filler tube/cap area.
04-26-02, 04:23 PM
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Easy there copandengr.... 
Even with a fully functional purge system, as these engines get older, and sometimes when they are breaking in, they do get a little build-up under the oil filler caps.
Quick trips and the right climate do seem to affect it, it doesn't mean that something is necessarily wrong with your engine unless you are seeing a ton of it.
Even with a fully functional purge system, as these engines get older, and sometimes when they are breaking in, they do get a little build-up under the oil filler caps.
Quick trips and the right climate do seem to affect it, it doesn't mean that something is necessarily wrong with your engine unless you are seeing a ton of it.
04-26-02, 05:10 PM
#12
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White goo in the oil filler neck?? Could it be that von hasn't gotten any for a while, took the filler cap off, saw that nice oiled pipe... oh man... He must really love his 7!
04-26-02, 09:54 PM
#14
Guys what happens when hot air rises and then mixes with cool air, when the car is turned off it condensates at the top of the oil filler neck. My 1st gen (FB/SA) were bad about this but they were emissionless, my 2nd gen is clean as hell. If you still have emisisons you need to check your purge valve and the charcoal canister. The purpose of the purge valve is when the engine is running to suck the hot air that rises up in the neck back in the motor to be burned. When the car is off the purge valve diverts the hot air into the charcoal canister to be burned when started up. Not a big deal just a bothersome thing, wont hurt a damn thing
Last edited by MIKE-P-28; 04-26-02 at 09:57 PM.
04-27-02, 10:37 AM
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I stand by my earlier statement. Assuming a normally operating purge system there should be no moisture in the filler pipe. If there is and the purge valve is operating properly then I would be worried about a coolant leak.
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