White at 4k
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White at 4k
I searched a bit and found alot of white smoke threads, but nothing that seemed to be based off a certain RPM range.
The motor smokes at 4k+ while free-revving it in park or neutral, and while accelerating slowly past 4k. If I'm hard on the throttle past 4k, it won't smoke.
By smoking, I mean like ninja smoke bombs.
Cause?
The injectors seem to be quite dirty as well, by the way it's running. Very small, but noticable surges while cruising, and occasionally (1/25 times) will take applied throttle to start.
Btw, the car passed the bubble test.
The motor smokes at 4k+ while free-revving it in park or neutral, and while accelerating slowly past 4k. If I'm hard on the throttle past 4k, it won't smoke.
By smoking, I mean like ninja smoke bombs.
Cause?
The injectors seem to be quite dirty as well, by the way it's running. Very small, but noticable surges while cruising, and occasionally (1/25 times) will take applied throttle to start.
Btw, the car passed the bubble test.
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I've had the car for about 4 days, and it was perfect before I got it, but have since non-stop romped on it.
I was just hoping a severe lean condition, and someone said on here before synthetic oil messes with these cars, so I was hoping something like that'd be the issue. I can't start putting a turbo on a car with a bad coolant seal!!
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wow looks like you have alot to learn. and yup looks like you blew a coolant seal your motor is toast, that white smoke is coolant getting pushed into the compression chamber through a small crack you recently created in the block
yeah it's not the smartest idea to "non-stop romp" on a car you just bought and have no idea of it's mechanical condition.
also a severe lean condition = blown motor with rotaries,
so your saying you put synthetic oil in it?
also theres no use in turbo'ing a non-turbo block,it'll only last you a couple thousand miles before it pops,you need to start with a 4port turbo block
yeah it's not the smartest idea to "non-stop romp" on a car you just bought and have no idea of it's mechanical condition.
also a severe lean condition = blown motor with rotaries,
so your saying you put synthetic oil in it?
also theres no use in turbo'ing a non-turbo block,it'll only last you a couple thousand miles before it pops,you need to start with a 4port turbo block
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wow looks like you have alot to learn. and yup looks like you blew a coolant seal your motor is toast, that white smoke is coolant getting pushed into the compression chamber through a small crack you recently created in the block
yeah it's not the smartest idea to "non-stop romp" on a car you just bought and have no idea of it's mechanical condition.
also a severe lean condition = blown motor with rotaries,
so your saying you put synthetic oil in it?
also theres no use in turbo'ing a non-turbo block,it'll only last you a couple thousand miles before it pops,you need to start with a 4port turbo block
yeah it's not the smartest idea to "non-stop romp" on a car you just bought and have no idea of it's mechanical condition.
also a severe lean condition = blown motor with rotaries,
so your saying you put synthetic oil in it?
also theres no use in turbo'ing a non-turbo block,it'll only last you a couple thousand miles before it pops,you need to start with a 4port turbo block
I didn't put synth in, and don't know what the PO put in.
All those threads I see of turbo'ing an NA car have a swapped 4 port? I thought they were all 6-port. Must have looked over that one. Time to see what the junkyard has to offer!
#6
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theres been a few people who have added a turbo to the 6port n/a block and i'm pretty sure everyone has given out.
i'd advise doing alot of reading before you start trying to build a turbo motor, theres many different parts you'll need and it's not gonna be cheap, you'll also need turbo tranny, driveshaft and rearend, manifolds, sensors, wiring harness. etc etc.
expect to spend 2k-3k building a nice 13bt that will last you a while, the cheaper you go the shorter the motors life will be. ideally you'd want to spend 1k on new housings, another 500 on rotors, then it's 1500 for the rebuild kit, not including the price of a new or rebuilt turbo, turbo manifold, exhaust, and the other stuff i listed above
i'd advise doing alot of reading before you start trying to build a turbo motor, theres many different parts you'll need and it's not gonna be cheap, you'll also need turbo tranny, driveshaft and rearend, manifolds, sensors, wiring harness. etc etc.
expect to spend 2k-3k building a nice 13bt that will last you a while, the cheaper you go the shorter the motors life will be. ideally you'd want to spend 1k on new housings, another 500 on rotors, then it's 1500 for the rebuild kit, not including the price of a new or rebuilt turbo, turbo manifold, exhaust, and the other stuff i listed above
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Thank you for your help. I'll have to put some good thought into what I want to do now since I won't have enough money to do the turbo thing with a rebuild.
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Lol! It freaking blew this morning and smelled like sugar water. I laughed.
Now I have the opportunity to build it properly. I hope everyone is willing to help me learn. I promise to use the search function!
Now I have the opportunity to build it properly. I hope everyone is willing to help me learn. I promise to use the search function!
#11
don't waste your money and turbo the 6 port. Save a lil bit and buy a TII motor and do a full TII swap. Easier IMO. You can custom make the manifolds, oil/ coolant lines if you want but it seems easier to do a full TII swap instead. Stay within the same series and the swap should be fairly easy.
SOME may recommend a Jspec motor but it's hit and miss. You MIGHT get a decent motor or you might get a blown one, it's a risk you take. I recommend looking at crashed donor TII's because you'll have all the parts you need at your disposal (depending of the kind of crash and damage).
SOME may recommend a Jspec motor but it's hit and miss. You MIGHT get a decent motor or you might get a blown one, it's a risk you take. I recommend looking at crashed donor TII's because you'll have all the parts you need at your disposal (depending of the kind of crash and damage).
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I have to really think about what I wan to do, cause I bought the car 4 days ago with all of my fun funds. I can dig into the bank account and rebuild this motor, cause most of the turbo stuff I have, or buy a 4 port and sit around till I get money to rebuild it.
I'm glad that this was just my back up rig! Made it fun!
I'm glad that this was just my back up rig! Made it fun!
#13
well since it's a back up you should do the TII swap. Slowly source all the parts (you can find a parts list by searching) and then do your build.
Next time you buy a 7 make sure you do a thorough inspection to make sure the car is in good running order. Don't beat on it until you know it's capable of taking a beating.
Next time you buy a 7 make sure you do a thorough inspection to make sure the car is in good running order. Don't beat on it until you know it's capable of taking a beating.
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I've learned my lesson
#15
You don't HAVE to find a donor car. It Just helps because you have all the parts you need. Check out the for sale sections here, and on www.teamfc3s.org
It's very surprising to see someone kill a car and not blame it on the machine itself. and get her running again.
It's very surprising to see someone kill a car and not blame it on the machine itself. and get her running again.
#16
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My motor did the same thing as well. It lasted about a year before it popped with me driving below 4k the majority of the time. It might have been a coolant seal, but the inside of the manifold was smeared with fresh oil (about a 1/4 cup) when I took it off so it led me to think it was the oil seals.
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