rx7jones

i think i need a new one because my car runs like crap and bogs down a lot when it is cold. once warmed to normal operating temps it runs fine. where can i get one of these? aurozone and oreily's do not carry it. would this help cause my car to run rich? thanks

casio

i have one. $40. same price as the dealership. new in box.
it will cause your car to run poorly when cold. it will cause it to go extremely lean (not wanting to start or idle) at startup.

YearsOfDecay

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=18-8400-8574

if this guy is including shipping.... about the same price

YearsOfDecay

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=18-8400-8574

if this guy is including shipping.... about the same price, just get from him

foild

i am buying mine at a local parts place... lordco

WAYNE88N/A

Put a meter on the ECU input from the little guy and compare with the specs in the FSM to see if it's even bad first, unless you're sure...

Also visually look at the plug on the back of it. They like to crack...

NZConvertible

Yep, test it first. Don't just assume that's the problem, because there can be other causes. I had very similar symptoms that turned out to be a bad ignition lead.

rx7jones

i actually have not even looked at it yet but i will try this weekend or if i have time i will try tonight. the sensor is on the back of the water pump or in that vicinity right. i am doing a tune up on my car and fixing a few things so that i can sell it soon. i have to make it pass emissions which will be done soon. i have replaced the o2 sensor, spark plugs tonight, need to get it timed, oil change, wires are a few thousand miles old, air filter done when i made my intake. what else should i do

jon88se

If the sensor is bad, it should cause the car to run quite rich - not lean.

rx7jones

my car is running rich. i have been failing emissions test left and right. i am hoping that that is all that is wrong with my car. i have replaced almost everything else and my cat is a bonez superflow that is only 23,000 miles old. i am hoping that this will do it. i was failing the emissions but about 400 and with denatured alcohol about 80 but i think i still had atleast a gallon of gas in the tank. hopefully this and a tune up will do the trick. my timing does not seem to be off and if it is it is not much at all because i don't backfire much and it is a small backfire which is normal. thanks.

jon88se

Try running all NGK 7's JUST for the emissions test...the hotter plugs should burn easier and help emissions. Also, make sure the air-pump is working and a line is fed to the cat for fresh air - this makes the cat burn hotter and take a hotter cat works better to burn hydrocarbons.

casio

starting a cold engine takes lots of extra fuel from my understanding (i believe nzconvertible even stated this, but i'm not 100% sure). the fail safe on the water thermo sensor (for an S5) tells the ecu the water is 176degrees. i was adding upwards of around +30% on my safc to start my car when my thermosensor wasn't hooked up.

casio

like i said, i have the sensor and i need to get rid of it. i'll even help you with the install if you'd like. just dont do any taekwandoe on me and steal my lunch money. not cool man. if we find you don't need the sensor before installation, i won't sell it to you. but you'd owe me a cup of starbucks for the drive. its on you to test the sensor at the ecu and even to remove the alternator to double check (if it shows an open voltage at the ecu; 4.99v in my case). its a brand new sensor and i want to be able to sell it to someone as "new in box," not "installed but for only 10 minutes."

casio

cats don't burn HCs. they de-oxidize and re-oxidize the compound structure (molecular structure; whatever its called). and the air pump does not go directly to the cat unless emissions are removed (which they may be, i didn't see).

also, i'm not sure if it would help or hurt, but i was thinking about advancing the timing. i was thinking this would run hotter, but also burn more HCs. i would imagine your NOx would rise some, but doubtfully enough to near failing you unless you were on the brink anyways (which i dont think is common with us with high HCs). usually high NOx points to lean (in which case you normally run a higher octane gas), but i saw one person who failed both HC and NOx. that was weird to me.

casio

have you ohm-tested (or replaced) the TPS across its entire resistance? or volt tested it (which would be a tad more difficult) ? did you ever check for codes?
what exactly have you tested or replaced?

i finally had to lean my safc down to -50% at 1600rpm and -40% at 2200rpm. i don't know what the actual air correction percentage was at the operating rpm on the dyno, though. i passed 15mph with 132/132 HC.

rx7jones

i actually have not tested anything lately. i have not had time to do anything. the tps is fairly new, about 2 years. the only code i have ever thrown is for the omp which i am premixing now. my add coolant light is always on though even though it has enough in there. no coolant buzzer going off but it could be disfunctional.

casio

well, i have the sensor, i'm fairly local, and i may have time to help you (if our schedules work out). i don't want to sell you a sensor you don't need, but if you install it, its yours. same deal you'll get anywhere else. its a fairly easy sensor to get to. i never actually removed mine, but i got to it. i wish i would have known it was so easy to get to before i bought the sensor. now i have a $40 sensor and no use for it unless i just feel like installing it as a new sensor; i'd rather have the $40 back.