I have an aftermarket radio and subwoofers hooked up in my 90 RX-7 and im gonna need a high output alternator. Where would I find one that would fit my car? I found one on amazon and put my vehicle in the "Find Parts that fit your vehicle" section and it says it doesnt fit in my car.

 

theres a 140 amp one in the FS section...

 

You could go the route of having yours rebuilt to a higher output but you will need a different pulley. There is a place in Jersey that rebuilds these alternators.

http://irperformance.com/

 

Or you could get a Taurus alternator, they are 130 amps. You will need to change the pulley on that as well. There is a long thread about them on here.

 

The route I went was an FD alternator(with dual vbelt pulley) that was rewound to 140amp.

 

I got an Fd alt and run 2 amps.no problem.
The Power Bastards alternator is next to get installed.
http://powerbastards.com/proddetail....=Fitzall%2D220

 

alright thanks everyone

 

The 130 AMP Ford Taurus alternator is the best alternator I've ever had in my FC.

It's an easy write-up in the archives, too.

 

I have seen the 130 Amp sweetness thread but was wondering if you made a mount or found a direct fit Taurus alternator?

 

There is definitely modification that needs to be done to the Taurus alternator itself. I actually got away with not extending the alternator bracket. I used the same stock belt, too... I plan to extend it in the near future. I did NOT use the 150A circuit breaker, as I was told it was not necessary.

I modified the alternator according to this thread in the archive:
130A Ford Taurus Alternator Swap

I wired the alternator according to this google search. TOP LEFT Jpeg. Which is no longer available in readable size. It is by far the most simple wiring diagram I found available for the Taurus alternator. (I believe Akagi's_white_comet made this diagram. You may have to contact him to re-post it on Image shack or whatever.)
http://www.google.com/search?q=130A+...NoGZiQLO37zHCw

My car runs ~14.1V at all times.

 

I just orderd said 130A taurus alt from ebay for $77 shipped, and it was freashly rebuilt!

 

That sucks about the diagram, I wish it wasn't so.

 

Oops... I did not mean to post in this thread.

Mods please delete this post.

 

I don't know why everyone is so hung up on the wiring. The Taurus alternator is a three wire plug-

BUT IT IS NOT A THREE WIRE CONNECTION TO OUR WIRING HARNESS!

The confusion is created if you do not have the original plug from the Taurus wiring harness as pictured below. The plug has the 'loop back' terminal already installed. Use it!

Now the only two wires you have to worry about are the S terminal and the L terminal. If you have an S5 this is all you need to know:




If you have an S5 or an S4, this wiring diagram is perfect. Once you understand the Taurus plug, you can wire the Taurus just like the FD alternator swap.

 

I completely agree. It is so much easier with the plug. Which I didn't have, and still do not have. The easiest diagram to follow is a diagram that Akagi's_white_comet made. I very easily wired my Taurus alternator according to his particular diagram... I've not been able to find it since.

This works, though..

 

Wire it like that and the alternator will work, charge etc. But that diagram is likely to cause a current drain. It is exactly the same wiring as putting an FD alt on your S4 car without rewiring. If you drive the car often enough and have a good battery maybe you haven't had trouble yet, but you likely will. And your alternator warning light won't work because now you have a car with hacked wiring.

Why not do it right once?

Addtional issue: As I have stated before-hooking the S wire directly to the B terminal at the alternator will result in lower voltage in the system. It is essentially making the alternator function like a 1-wire alternator. You might as well complete the process and hook the switched ignition wire to the B terminal as well and complete the process. Then at least you will not experience a voltage drain! This is not a great solution. Since the whole purpose of the mod is to attain adequate amperage at correct voltage, why 'hack' this part, especially when the correct wires are already in the loom AT the alternator???

This is an even bigger deal if you have a remote mounted battery.

Also, (rant mode on) so why does anyone have Taurus alternator without a plug? If you didn't get one, then get one! Why rewire the entire charging system because you don't have a plug? That's a half-assed hack! Just get the plug and hook it to the existing wires in your alternator wiring harness! How hard is that? If you get a picknpull special, you take the plug with the alternator. I got my alternator, the plug and the entire 'B' wire from the Taurus for $20!! If you buy a brand new alternator, the parts store stocks the plug! Buy it! Rockauto sells it for $16. Oriellyauto stocks it locally for $27. If you forgot to pull it, a trip back to the picknpul and you can carry it out in your pocket.

Why does everything have to be so friggen complicated? (rant mode off)

 

How would it cause a battery drain? I'm not disagreeing... Just curious to hear your explanation.

I'm not sure why anyone would connect the "S" wire to the "B+" terminal anyway. I think you're confusing the "S" wire with the "A" wire. Even then... The "A" wire should really be wired straight to the positive battery terminal. NOT the "B+" terminal. (That is how I have mine wired.) The fact that I posted this random diagram is a bit misleading. I only said that I used a Akagi's_white_comet's diagram. Which is different than the diagram that I posted. I do apologize for posting that particular diagram, as I was not able to find Akagi's_white_comet's diagram.

I wired my Taurus alternator without the plug because I wasn't able to immediately source one. (I admit... I was a bit lazy on that note.) - Even without the Taurus alternator plug, I made it from Illinois to Washington state without ANY voltage drops or issues. For peace of mind, I would much rather have had the Taurus alternator plug.

 

Well that is a good question. I have no empirical evidence that it will cause a drain on a Taurus alt, because mine is hooked up correctly and does not cause a drain.

So I might just be wrong. *However*

The wiring diagram I posted above regarding the FD alternator swap with the S4/S5 wiring details exists for a very good reason.

There is a well known issue with S4 /FD alternator swaps that if you hook up the FD alternator with a switched wire like on the S4, you will have a voltage drain. Not telling you to, but if you did search for Voltage Drain FD you would find that there have been many threads going back to the early 2000's regarding this issue. Since the Taurus alternator operates exactly like the S5/FD alternator, I'll bet it drains too. We would need someone to hook it up wrong to test. I'm not going to do it.

I'm not confusing anything. I am using the terminology used in the Mazda Wiring diagrams regarding Alternator wiring- because I am working on a Mazda. I'm remaining consistent on the nomenclature. S-wire is the voltage regulation wire. On a Mazda (on a Ford Taurus, the alternator terminal is labelled A) Yes, it goes to the battery. Yyou don't need to add one on an S5 because it is already in the loom. In the case of doing this mod on an S4 you need to add a wire to to to a constant source of 12v voltage(the battery ), not a switched source( see answer above). It would be the new 'S' wire since your S4 doesn't have one.

Yes, you posted the confusing diagram.
If I was in that situation and I was Lazy, I would do the easiest thing possible: I would crimp onto the oem wires and use insulated female spades to make my own 'plug'. Four female spades (including the jumper wire) and the lazy man is done. I'm just saying

 

Anyone ever bought/thought about the alternators on ebay?

 

I bought one a couple weeks ago. 140 amp modded S5 alternator from Ace Alternators and Starters. No complaints from me. I've got a Taurus efan, aftermarket stereo system, aftermarket alarm, gauges, etc.

 

I hate to bring this thread back from the dead but.....

My FD alternator just failed, its an FC with no stock harness (carb'd car) left on it.
I have the FD alt with the S terminal directly to the B+ terminal, this has been working fine since I got the alternator about a year and a half ago... but now its only 11.43 volts at 3krpm so its fucked.

ANYWAYS!

What do you suggest then for wiring the S terminal? Run it to a switch? or to the hot side of a relay? I never had draining issues but I def have noticed voltage issues recently leading to its demise...

I'm not 100% sure its related but I would not be surprised.

that or the Napa brand alternator's voltage regulator took a **** on me.

 

The S terminal to the B terminal will not cause a drain, it will cause a lower than optimum voltage regulation. Iit put out lower voltage than it really should to keep the battery optimally charged. The correct place to run it is to the +terminal of the battery. ON the S5 and FD wiring harness, the S terminal is connected to the main bus on the under hood fuse terminals. With an S4 you have to add a wire, so you can choose where to run it. If the B terminal is good for you, then use it.

Jack

 

Not to mess up the theme of the thread but i just discovered that a Mid 90's Dodge Avenger Mounts up, same wiring as the S5 and is 120amps

 

Right that is what I am trying to accomplish, I believe that it is lower than optimal voltage which is affecting my fuel pump. I'm be double checking this theory when I get the new alternator (still under warranty) installed.

What your suggesting is run a wire from the S terminal to a fuse box; IE a B+ stud?

 

If I were you, use an automotive relay for "S to "B wiring. When the engine is off, no drain. that is how I wired the S5 alternator in my RX-3.