sudseh

http://userpages.umbc.edu/~sud1/img_0001.jpg
http://userpages.umbc.edu/~sud1/img_0002.jpg

I was randomly yanking on ground wires in the engine bay and found this one not connected to anything (other than the firewall).

I searched the faq's etc, and I think it's one of the ones that bolts up under the intake manifold, but before I go and remove stuff, I want to be 100% sure.

Thanks in advance.
~suds

raising arizona

Looks like a engine block ground...

elfking

That end you show there was connected to one of the upper intake manafold bolts in the back on the block. (Im talking closest to the firewall. ) I have a Turbo II but I bet your ground goes generally in that area as well. Unless the previous owner put mine in the wrong spot.

Edit: Mine wasn't under the upper intake manafold.. it was sitting on one of the bolts which hold the manafold down in place... in the back, i had a metal peice which had alot of vac lines attached, it was grounded there.. I am not sure if you have the same or not.. Someone with an N/A can confirm as well soon im sure.

Crush

Hey, I am not 100% sure but I think that ground actually goes onto the transmission. Thats where mine goes at least.

wozzoom

*Bing bing bing* We have a winner.

There is a hole on the very top of the transmission bell housing that is threaded for a single 10mm bolt. The only purpose of that 10mm bolt is for that ground.

just wondering: Did someone do some transmission work lately? Replaced the clutch purhaps? whoever did the work forgot to reconnect that ground.

sudseh

hit the nail on the proverbial nose, so to speak.

i found that bare hole after some poking around.
http://userpages.umbc.edu/~sud1/img_0003.jpg

edit: needless to say, i used a bolt that was too long(used loctite on it too ) and now i'll be needing the help of mr impact driver to redo the fitting.

in any case. that fixed the 3500-6000 sputtering.

just have a 5700-redline sputtering problem now (as illustrated in the following 3 vid clips)
http://userpages.umbc.edu/~sud1/mvi_0001.avi
http://userpages.umbc.edu/~sud1/mvi_0002.avi
http://userpages.umbc.edu/~sud1/mvi_0003.avi

i know it starts at 5700 because i did repeated 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear pulls and that's when the car "bogs" a bit.

SureShot

The battery primary ground goes directly to the starter mount bolt.

That wire is the primary ground for all body (non-engine) load, including the ECU.
And - it attaches to the firewall with just a cheesy clip.

I backed it up with a #6 wire from the alternator frame to the body.

sudseh

ok cool... thanks
I'll be doing that in about 10min.

Fitness Stain

i just replaced the actual line .. should i put the original back ... i mean i just ran a bigger guage line from the Block (which is where i have it grounded) to the same spot that the pictured wire goes two .. i just assumed that replaceing the ground would be just as good??


am i wrong?

WAYNE88N/A

No, you're not wrong, replacing an OEM ground is even better than adding new grounds, which tend to "confuse" the ECU in some cases. If you're going to add a beefy ground somewhere (say, alt to chassis), might as well ditch the tranny ground. If not, the ECU will "see" both grounds from the sensors that help fuel scheduling and injectors on the engine (basically everything that uses that rear rotor housing ground). If you ever add a ground (the boost sensor "add-on" is famous for this), and the car runs worse, that's what's going on- multiple grounds with different potentials confusing the ECU...