a little late but i'm still jealous...

guy did you check these engine mounts at http://www.motivefab.com/ ??
don't they look kind of weak to you? i just thought it might be a heavy strain on the area where the adapter arm is welded to the mount! i mean on this area the whole longblock is resting plus the force of the twisting power while accelerating!
any experiences??

 

Those are a terrible design. The cantilever support would be nowhere near as strong as supporting from directly underneath. I think Ted's suggestion (new crossmember and FD mounts) is the best way.

 

Good catch.
They are a bad design.
The put a twisting force on the stock mount locations.


-Ted

 

ok so it's better going custom fab!

i think it's best to mount in a rew dummy (empty housings) and see what mounting system will work best!

RETed:
on your much appreciated tech section i can read about the different surface of the housings in the REW:

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/BTvsBREW.html

"The rotor housings on the 13B-REW motors are refined for reliability. Since the motor is designed for higher standard output, the wear surface on these housings has a carbon-graphite coating which is said to exhibit 32% less friction than the 13BT motor's fluorocarbon resin coating. The new coating actually allows less oil to be injected into the combustion chambers, thus the 13B-REW requires only two oil injectors instead of four."

If that's true ( i don't doubt), it would be another advantage of the REW to the 13BT, wouldn't it?
Maybe just a easyer reving and more aggressive engine?

regs

 

Newer is almost always better.
Thanx for the kind words.

Good luck!


-Ted

 

thanks, but i'm still wondering if that surface thing comes to play or is just hot air??
anyone have opinions, 'cause i've never seen any thread with this topic!

 

Mazda R&D spends a lot of money into this kind of stuff.
I don't think they would've done it if it wasn't any signficant gain (in performance).
I tend to trust Mazda on this.


-Ted

 

it *seems* like most of that coating is worn off in the FD by 30,000miles, FD engine in the stock car runs hot though....

we have had some housings together, both fc and fd recently, and the fd ones have a better/more consistent exhaust port casting, the cleanup style port where you match the sleeve is basically already done on the fd

 

ok, so that would be no advantage on a used engine then!
many people say the swap wasn't worth it, but IMO it is 'cause the REW has experienced many many improvements since the TII engine!
(yes i know, a could get a 20b swap for almost the same amount of money...!)

but since i live in europe (shipping is ruinous) and i'm not going EMS, REW is niiicccee with me!!

 

No EMS?
Why not?
Drop hIGGI a note in CZ and have more fun!


-Ted

 

WHAT?

sorry no abbreviations for me

YES YES i'm going stock seq twins (so stock ECU)... oh yes now everybody is going to flame me...
but yes, i'm addicted to low end resonse and a good powerband!

and... the money is not ready for aftermarket EMS, but maybe next year

 

ok so no more input?

 

Do a search it's been outlined with good detail on this subforum.The best way as mentioned by J9FD3S would be to drill the center iron which still has the casting hole locations on it and modify the the T2 oil pan. Which from what I gather the couple of people that did it wasn't a big deal.

 

that's probably the less expensive way! what about the left mount, does it stay in place with the REW?? never read anything about the left one!

regs