lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

never thought it would end so calmly and go out so peicefully but 2 days ago, MY THIRD RX-7 GOES DOWN.

1989 vert with 155k miles on it.

So i am over a my bros house, hes dicking around on his prelude and trying to say hes drifting. i take my 7 across the feild and slide sideways in 2nd gear and tell that what its all about. we run to the store get a drink come back and i park the care, as normal. then we take his auto abuse car and get it stuck on a tree, in a fence, in the ditch so i run grab my tow cable and hop in my car.

crank it up slide it into reverse then the engine stalls as i release the clutch. that was the final rotation. then tow it back to my house it was a day a defeat calling a tow truck...

gonna plug it out and a part and post come pics of what might have happened.

i used permatex block sealent 4 months ago to stop a water jacket leak and it was holding up so well. but i think that it could of came out and caught a seal.

anyone ever heard of a rotary locking up like this other then sitting for a long time???

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

So you are saying the engine doesn't rotate at all?

If you move it in either direction with the front hub nut, it doesn't budge?

It's possible that the top half of an apex seal can "roll out" and jam the engine just as it's turned off or just as it's started.

Latin270

The abuse these motors can take is amazing.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

after using a breaker bar on the front hub we put a 525 lbs impact gun, no rotation one way, bolt came out the other :P

i got the engine out yesterday and threw it on the engine stand but its gonna have to sit in my garage for 2 weeks, i work off shore and cant find someone locally that sells a big enough socket for the flywheel, and its my last free day on dryland, id rather spend it with maria( see pic to left).

NCross

iTrader: (18)

why didnt you try to push start it down hill? ehh its worth a try as long as the wheels dont just lock up.

ducerx7

use a air hammer to take the nut off it will come right off and if u do it right u can re use it

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

That is the worst advice I have ever heard. I hate working after ****'s like you who hack up flywheel nuts just because they dont want to go buy the PROPER 25 dollar tool. It makes it harder for the professional who has to pick up the slack later on down the line.

VortecBowtie

/\....Agreed....


Just go to sears or something and pick up a 2,1/8th inch socket...

ducerx7

i have the right tool and i also have extra nuts just in case i have to do it that way but if dude needs his car a.s.a.p. thats a fast why to do it and the bolts only ten dollars from the dealer if he wants a new one

whorider

Yeah, but you still have to put it back on. Are you going to air hammer it back on also.

Please don't say yes.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Not trying to be harsh, but some honest advice to avoid problems down the road...

It's this type of attitude that leads people to bigger problems. I'd rather "borrow" a neighbour's car, than perform hack jobs on my car. It's good you have the tools and extra nuts, ducerx7, but suggesting for someone to use an impact hammer as an excuse because the guy could need his car A.S.A.P. is not acceptable. How much time is it going to save, really, when you still have to take the engine apart, inspect, put together (and wait for parts to come in), and install.

Unless of course, you're doing it overnight, putting a seal lying around from another broken engine in (without measuring clearances), ignoring damaged rotor or side housing(s) (if applicable), assembling engine, and popping it in, just to re-do the job in a month.

What if you screw up the nut or round it off, have to cut it off or screw the eccentric shaft threads? What about torquing the nut afterwards?

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

well got the 2 and 1/8, ad harbor fright, was a pain in the *** to find, will update when i get the block apart, air hammer lol...