Hondaeat-R

Using the method on this link, is the car running while you test or what ? I'm sure i sound stupid but, i'm just not getting it. I have a Digi Multi Meter ready to go. Not to mention, my engine bay looks nothing like that so, it's hard to apply that to my '87 n/a. http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html Any help is greatly appreciated, as i'm trying to to this today. Thanks

phoenix7

no, not while it's running. WARM up the car( drive it to the store and do your normal errands today) and when you get home turn it off and test it then. the harness for the S4 is different than the S5 so I suggest you Download the FSM. The car used is a TII and you have an NA but The TPS and plugs should be the same. It helps to have a friend in the car slowly accelerating to WOT (so you can see if it SPIKES).

MAKE SURE YOU DON'T PUSH THE SCREWDRIVER IN BECAUSE IT WILL READ DIFFERENTLY ( depending on the pressure) I usually put the screw driver in and make sure it's positioned right and then let it rest on the other parts of the engine and LIGHTLY adjust left and right without PUSHING .

Hondaeat-R

But if I floor it WOT, won't the car flood ?

phoenix7

mine didn't. And IF it does then unflood it. (S4: pull the INJ. fuse. For S5: pull EGI fuse OR push the gas all the way down while cranking [follow the same procedure as if you had pulled the fuse].) Once you follow the unflooding procedure you should be able to turn it on.

Hondaeat-R

just wired in a fuel pump switch due to persistent flooding. alright, i'll give this a try. i can't tell which screw i'm supposed to be messing with either in that picture, sorry for all the newb questions but, the pics provided don't work

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

that write up is waay off, at least it was for me. Not sure what kind of RX7 thats for but the screw looks nothing like that, the harness is completely different too. I put the negative in the red/dark purple/black-ish wire and the positive in the green wire and it worked. The screw is the big flat head screw with a big spring in the middle of it..

Hondaeat-R

Well, i just tried to do it. with my MM on Ohms (resistance) i tested what i thought to be the right plug and when it was just sitting there normal it read 1.053 ohm, good to go, but when i pulled the throttle cable for WOT it read out .083 ohm or something like that. shouldn't it be 5.00 or 6.00 ohm at WOT ? i have the fuel pump switched off, not sure if that matters ....

well, pretty awesome. while trying to adjust the TPS (which i thought i finally had right) the idle is at a steady 750-800 but when i press the clutch in, rpm's drop to 500 or even 400. this blows, i've kinda had it w/ this car

phoenix7

look the plugs on the S4 are what you're looking at in the write up

ECA
FDB

TEST A and B for Narrow Range and then test
E and D for full range.

The A and B should be 1-4K ohms
The E and D should be the 4-6K ohms

YOU will need to most likely adjust the idle afterwards. Don't get angry. Patience is the key and take a break when it's not going your way and try again later.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

um....there is no full range on a S4. It's a single TPS!

If your TPS looks like my avatar, then it's an S5 TPS. Otherwise, if it only has a single plunger, it's an S4. On S4's, there are three pins. On S5's, there are 6 pins. FWIW, S4's TPS's are the same, between NA and Turbo. S5's had different TPS between NA and Turbo.

Use fc3spro's writeup, it's pretty good. Adjust the resistance of the TPS to 1 kohm, not 1 ohm. That would be bad if you adjusted it to 1 ohm. WOT should read between 4 and 6 kohm, not ohm. (kohm = ohm x 1000, FYI). Also, slowly move the TPS through it's range by slowly pushing on the throttle lever. There should be no points of discontinuity (i.e. the range should be a smooth sweep) If there are rough points, consider buying another TPS.

On the S5, if you're getting between 4 and 6 kohms when measuring E-D, I pity your ECU. FSM specs for E-D is 0.6 - 0.9 kohm. It must be bucking like crazy at 4 kohms at rest! Also, for S5's, the ECU has a TPS auto-adjust function, so you should never ever have to adjust it. If you do, more likley than not, you'll still have problems. It's usually due to the full sensor going bad. At that point, you either have to deal with it, or buy a new TPS.

If by the next NYRA meet, your TPS still needs adjusting, bring it down and I'll lend you a hand.

phoenix7

I was trying to remember off the top of my head when it came to the full range so, my mistake. Now I was under the impression that he had an S5. I need to hone my reading comprehension skills.

Hondaeat-R

Phoenix, thanks for the help anyways, we all get a little mixed up time to time.

Roen, what does 1 kohm look like on a MM compared to 1 ohm ? This is really frustrating, especially since now the idle drops WAY down when i push in the clutch instead of going up like it should and did until yesterday. Should i mess with my idle adjust screw on the TB before i do the TPS again or what ? I'm very close to just getting rid of this car, honestly i don't need this **** nor do i have the time or patience for it. Thing was running ******* mint until days ago. Also, i have the fuel pump switch, so does this have to be on when i test/adjust, and should i have the key turned on or out of the ignititon ?. When i read the FC3s TPS write-up, i have lots of questions still....Thanks for offering to help me at a meet but, if this isn't back to normal by this week, it's going bye bye.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

1 kohm (kilo-ohm) = 1000 ohms

I do it in this order: set idle to 750, set timing, set TPS, set idle. No particular reason why I do it that way, just because.

Your multimeter should have a kohm setting. It'll either be written as kohm or 1000 ohm. If you have an advance timing gun, I'd say use it to advance your timing about 7 degrees to get a little more low-end and remember to align the leading mark with the pin after setting the advance on the gun. If you have a normal timing gun, just set your timing to align the leading mark with the pin.

Use the FC3Spro method, and check that your idle setting is 1.0 kohm. I usually set my TPS between 1.00 and 1.01 kohm at idle. After that's set, depress the throttle lever smoothly and very very very slowly to check that the range smoothly transitions from 1 kohm to 5 +- 1 okhm (between 4 and 6 kohm). Make sure there are no rough points in the sweep or that any discontinuity is shown.

After I do all of the adjustments, I usually reset the ECU by pulling the negative battery cable off for 5 minutes then putting it back on. This is because I have an S5. S4 ECU's are the non-learning kind, so I'm not sure if you have to do this. You might want to do this anyway.

BklynRX7

Don't forget to ground the green test plug on the driver side strut tower while adjusting the idle.

On top of that just be glad you have a s4 and dont have to deal with that son-of-a-bitch narrow range sensor.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

You mean full range, don't you?

Oh yeah, add to everything I posted above, use a jumper wire (I just used a voltmeter set to DC voltage) to connect the one-pin test connector, which is located between the battery and the driver side strut tower, to the negative battery terminal. I stuck the positive voltmeter lead into the connector and wedged the negative lead in the terminal.

Hondaeat-R

I jumpered the initial set coupler when setting idle, still doesn't always idle at 750. i fixed the issue of the RPMs dropping when clutch pushed in (left the jumper on by accident). I set the TPS to 1.005k ohm at idle and it was 4.60k ohm WOT, but i still have about 2 full minutes of erratic idle when the cold start idle is starting to settle down. once it warms up fully, the RPMs do drop to 600-800 but it's not that consistent. kinda annoying..i drove the car for about 20 min before setting TPs that way it was still warm. i don't get what the problem is. Maybe i need to set the timing..haven't done that yet.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

I've noticed that the car cools down very quickly when you're setting the TPS. If you don't make the corrections within the first minute and a half of shutting off the engine, the TPS reading starts going out of wack. I usually set it, warm it up again for 5 minutes, disconnect the TPS, turn it off, check to see if it's still where I need it to be, if not, set it again, warm it up for another 5 minutes, disconnect the TPS again, turn it off, and check again. I do this until the reading is right just after I turn off the engine. It helps to have someone else to do this with you, both to pass the time and to start checking the probe leads as soon as the TPS is disconnected.

Try setting the timing first, then adjusting the TPS. I'm sure it doesn't make any difference, but that's the method I've been using and it's not bad. I only surge two times after using the accelerated warm-up system, where before, I was surging for a good two minutes. My sensor is bad, but I've made the most of it. If you can't get it to stop surging, most likely the sensor is bad, and the best you can do is to minimize the amount of surging you get when warming up, and minimize the bucking by being gentler with your right foot.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Not sure if it applies, but the car doesn't have to be warm if you have no thermowax.

Hondaeat-R

So, you disconnect the TPS while the car is still running ? Does it matter that I was shutting the car off, THEN disconnecting the TPS and setting it ?

RotaMan99

I don't know how other engines are effected but when I first got my rx7 about 6 years ago, If I disconnected the TPS while the engine was running, it would eventually stall out.

My engine doesn't do that now but I don't know if anyone elses does. I disconnect my TPS while the car is running if I need to make any adjustments and have no isues when setting it.

Hondaeat-R

So, get the car warmed up, disconnect the TPS, shut the car off, then measure and set TPS with the car off ? Is that what you all do ?

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

I've measured it with the car on (still disconnected). Not sure if it makes a difference...

Roen

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure either, the resistance method states that the key should be out. The voltage method and the two lights method require the key to be at least in the ACC position. The method I described above was the resistance method. FYI.

Hondaeat-R

I was using the resistance method (k ohms) and i had the key still in when doing it. i'll take it out but doubt it matters. T I tried to set this again last night, 3 times...still surges for a full minute before settling this morning before work. When my car is running and i disconnect the TPS, the idle raises to about 1000rpms instantly, when i hook the TPS back up the idle drops back down. any significance there or is that normal ?
I know the TPS could be bad but, it was all good days ago. I just need an exact write-up on how to do this properly, you guys have helped so much already, but there's so much variation between what each person does, and what they drive and blah blah. In write-ups I like to have "exact" directions, all the tiny details that make things definite. Guess i'm just OCD because i do a lot of technical writing in school.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

(Have two people do this, it's easier that way. It's easiest to do this late at night, when the streets are empty. I would also suggest setting the timing first, as well)

For S5's (If you have to do this, most likely your TPS is bad and you will need to get another good one in order to get rid of all TPS-related problems. This adjustment will only minimize those problems, but surging and bucking can still happen)

1. Set the multimeter to read in kohms.
2. Warm the car to operating temperature.
3. Disconnect the TPS, set probes on pins D an E of the TPS sensor.
The order of pins are: E C A
__________________ F D B
4. Check that the resistance is between 0.6 - 0.9 kohms. I shoot for 0.75 kohms.
5. If your resistance is out of spec, or if you're ****, adjust full range. Be sure to blip the throttle lever arm with your finger to reset the throttle before checking position resistance readings.

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible if you damage your car doing this. It has worked for me and another friend, but we have wrecked one TPS doing this.

Take a hammer and a flat head, and position the flat head on the left side of the TPS platform (when viewed directly from the front). Hammer the flat head to move the platform to the right will lower the resistance reading. Using the flat head to pry to the left or fitting the flathead and hammering to the left will raise the resistance reading.

6. If your reading does not move or moves slightly then goes back the other way, your car has cooled down. Cooling down will occur in less than 45 seconds, so you have to be quick. Warm the car up for 5 minutes and repeat steps 3-5 until desired result is achieved. You can choose to reconnect the TPS if you'd like, mine will warm up fine without it reconnected.
7. Once you get the reading you want, warm the car up again and verify that you have the reading you want immediately after the car is turned off.
8. Set probes on pins A and B. Check that the resistance is between 0.8 and 1.2 kohms. I shoot for 1.00 kohm.
9. If the resistance is off, or if you're ****, loosen or remove the locknut from the underside of the throttle lever and use a flathead to adjust the screw. Turning the screw right should lower resistance. Turning it to the left should raise resistance. Be sure to blip the throttle lever arm with your finger to reset the throttle before checking position resistance readings.
10. Repeat Step 6, substituting steps 8 and 9 for steps 3-5.
11. Repeat Step 7. Replace the locknut once you've confirmed that your TPS is set.
12. Take off idle adjust screw at the top of the throttle body/dynamic chamber. Set idle to 750 rpms +- 25 rpms.
13. Unplug negative battery cable for at least 6 minutes.
14. Reconnect negative battery cable.
15. Take the car out for a spritied drive for 5 minutes. During the first 2 minutes, make sure you go through the entire range of the throttle multiple times, as well as cruising level of throttle at the end of the two minutes. Go have fun in the car for awhile and then bring the car back.

If you have an S4, you should only have to do steps 8 - 15, using the pin locations provided by the writeup on FC3Spro.com

Congratulations. Your TPS has been adjusted.