Well I went to the track last night with my newly rebuilt motor, installed my water injection setup, and ran with some nitto 555r extreme drags...boost around 12 psi but bleeding to like 5psi by 7k, and I ran a 13.6 at 100 mph with a 1.94 60 ft though I think I could gotten an even better one if it wasn't for the massive wheel hop that I was getting...I know my diff mount bushing is intact and that is not the problem, I have derlin subframe bushing and rear controll arm bushings that I'm going to install tomorrow...but what else should I suspect being the culprit?

 

good pair of rear struts

 

How about a 15MPH rolling start? (works for me)

Actually - like silver said - adjustables dialed up tight.

 

Yeah, probably worn suspension parts are the biggest issue... I'd look at struts and all the bushings first.

 

Well I have Kyb AGX 4 way adjustables in the front and 8 way adjustables in the rear, with suspension technique springs....and for drag racing you want the best wieght transfer as possible so you set the front to the tightest and the rear to the loosest...correct me If I am wrong....ps check out my sig

 

No offense, but isnt 13..6 @100MPH pretty slow for your mods?? I can see you got a damn good launch by your 60", but Id think you should be way faster than that....

 

I am running NT555's too, but on a 1st gen turbo. I was at the track a couple weeks ago and got a little wheel hop. The rear tire pressures were slightly different and when I corrected it the hop went away. That was the fix for me.

 

You would want both the front and the back as firm as you can get them for the best transfer.

 

i've heard a rear strut bar will help, as well

 

Great 60'!! What was your launching technique?

From what I understand wheel hop is mainly caused by

-not enough rebound damping-your stock shocks are worn, you got stiff lowering springs but left the mushy shocks on, or aftermarket shocks are adjusted wrong.

-worn bushings-will alow for too much play in all the suspension.

 

hey thanks for the replies guys, Rxmfn7, yeah it is but I was running old plugs, running rich as hell (and I didn't wanna fowl the new plugs I have) also I need to figure out why my boost is bleeding so much...I belive running rich as hell has something to do with it, on the stock motor with stock injectors I ran a 13.8 at 101....so once I get it tunned properly I'm thinkin low 13s to high 12s.

Mark'sMazda the track was really sticky revved it to 6K then slipped the clutch a tiny tiny bit...

Hrmm so you want it STIFF in the rear? hrmmm anyone else?

 

yeah wheel hop is caused by the wheel getting too much traction and the chassis is rebounding from the wheel/pavement friction, stiffer suspension/chassis will prevent it

 

Hmm..interesting. Can anyone else comment on this about the stiff/soft rear?? I was always told that softer in the rear was better at controlling wheelhop, as the car will squat and absorb most of the shock, instead of letting it rebound off of a stiff setup...

 

I don't think a 13.6 is slow for his mods really. I mean his mods really consist of intake and exhaust. I'm not sure how much the h20 injection helps really, but a good fmic will help. 12s on the stock turbo and ports isn't easy, especially with the stock intercooler.

 

very wierd all the v8 guys say that you want the car to squat, ie use looser struts/shocks in the rear, but then again they have a differn't wieght stance than we do....also its street ported...I think I found my bleeding problem my egr block off plates were a bit loose and I could hear the air excaping at idle tightened them up so I should see a difference....also h2O injection is almost a replacement for an FMIC, in that it reduces intake temps, and prevents detenation even more than a FMIC, also I like the TIMC throttle response a friend of mine may be selling an aftermarket one he has thick as hell not sure the manufacturer though...I'm replacing my subframe and rear controll arm bushings tommorrow which need to be replaced pretty bad, alot of poping coming from the rear at take off...

 

The springs control how easy the suspension is to compress. The shocks control how quick it "springs back" or rebounds. I am not a big drag racer, but from what I have heard. You want soft springs, to let the car squat a little to help with the rear weight transfer. You want the shocks to be set stiff, so the car will NOT bounce at all.

Think of a ball point pen. When you close it, if you take your thumb off the button slowly the "ink tip thing" will smoothly return to inside of the pen. If you slide your thumb off quickly, the "ink tip thing" will snap back, and bouce a little. Does this make since? Your thumb is the shock, the spring is the spring.

 

Let me know if this cured your problem. I have a big leak from my ACV plate right now and am waiting for a real one to come in. Hope it has something to do with my problem as well.

 

heh funny you say that I have a custom made acv plate though it doesn't leak....do you have a gasket on the plat?

 

Ya the stock one(brand new though). It leaked before I took the ACV off though. Do shops take the ACV off to change a turbo?

 

yeah they prolly would take the acv off, but if you have a block off plate there would be no need

 

my 86 floodes when i turn off the car help

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/fuel_cutoff.html


p.s. It would have been best if you'd started a new thread for your question.