2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 08-14-11, 06:10 PM
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Also, satch, what pictures would be helpful for you? I read.starter wires, so I just took a pi,tute of the wires around the starter..
Old 08-14-11, 06:23 PM
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A pic from this angle but keep in mind the pic in post #40 is not correct so don't copy the wiring as seen in post #40. And you must try turning the engine by hand by turning the alternator pulley. I can't empasize this enough because if the engine is stuck then the starter will not turn it for it is that simple.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=starter+satch
Old 08-15-11, 03:11 AM
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I turned it over by hand, and it was very easy to do.



I am sure that picture is of no help, but thought I would post it in the off chance it would be useful. I just got off work, and went right back to working on it... I don't sleep much anymore...Feels like I am getting possessed by the spirit of pissed of Japanese men tryin to troll me from the grave...

Why on earth would the starter spin, but not catch? When it was tested, the gear popped out, and it spun... but when it is on the car, and the relay is jumped, all I hear is spinning. Matt was over, and that's all that happened.... the battery is putting out plenty juice, the little ground going to the main fuse is grounded, I swear to God the starter is wired properly.... I am truly at a lose...
Old 08-15-11, 07:58 AM
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You have a starter which says "N326" on it which I believe is an S4 starter. Not sure if this will match up properly with an S5 flywheel. Someone else will have to chime in on this.
Old 08-15-11, 02:54 PM
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Where can you see n326?? If the problem is I have the wrong year starter, I would happily go buy another one... I am willing to bet that the turn signals and whatnot not working are because the room fuse in the kickpanel was blown.... d'oh.
Old 08-15-11, 11:23 PM
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You provided a group of starter pics and the 3rd pic shows a round White label on the starter which says "N32?" and the third number is covered in dirt but it looks like a "6." Until someone can state for sure that this is the wrong starter please do not purchase a replacement.
Old 08-16-11, 12:30 AM
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Oh, I saw the picture... I am pretty sure it is fine. Also, I am also 99 percent sure that the s4 and s5 starters are interchangeable. Is it possible the relay is bad or something? Can that even go bad? Perhaps it is partially a security issue... Though the starter simply spinning doesn't have anything to do with it I'm sure... this is all so frustrating... I appreciate everyone's help though, really.
Old 08-16-11, 12:34 AM
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The relay is not the crux of your problem related to the starter. It's possible that the flywheel teeth are worn down thus not allowing the starter to catch properly.
Old 08-16-11, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by satch
The relay is not the crux of your problem related to the starter. It's possible that the flywheel teeth are worn down thus not allowing the starter to catch properly.
If this were true, it would have to be all the teeth, cuz me and Matt, when he was over the other day, rotated the flywheel by hand, then I also got a socket and turned engine over a bunch by hand to see if it would catch anywhere, and it didn't do squat.

An idea from another friend is that the lower harness is bad, the part that goes to coils, lights, starter.... Is this possible? Though, my headlights do come on, and the starter does spin...just doesn't catch.
Old 08-16-11, 03:29 AM
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The wires related to the alternator have nothing to do with the other issues. Its also possible the starter is not extending and is spinning within the starter.


What you could do is to remove the thin wire (Black/White) to the starter solenoid spade and then take a screwdriver and bridge the spade to the thick solid Black battery positive cable connected to the solenoid and do this with the car in neutral and the starter should turn over and see if it turns the engine over or not.
Old 08-17-11, 08:54 PM
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So, I finally got my hands on a digital multimeter, and tested the starter, while still on the car. At a stand still, it read a 12.8

under cranking, it dropped to a blatant zero, several times. What I find wierd, is that I can still hear it spinning very loudly, and am thinking that if it was really getting zero volts, it wouldnt even spin... bad multimeter, or bad starter? wired wrong?

Also, the fuses I went to replace in my car-cigar, room, lights etc.... when the battery was still in, the fuses blew immediately. pulled battery out, put fuses in, clicked ignition over, they all blew again, but just the same ones-cigar, room, light...

I have no0o0o0 electrical experience at all, and frankly dont even understand much of a difference between ac/dc....

no pun intended lol
Old 08-17-11, 10:40 PM
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Anyone?
Old 08-18-11, 04:03 AM
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Bump....
Old 08-18-11, 01:20 PM
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bump
Old 08-18-11, 03:50 PM
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Hate to break it to you but you need hands on assistance from someone who has electrical knowhow. Trying to help someone from thousands of miles away via the internet on a car that has been fudged with thus leaving it in a non stock form is a nightmare and than some.
Old 08-18-11, 06:19 PM
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I had assumed as much. Thanks Satch for all the help!
Old 08-19-11, 02:10 AM
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Is any of this possibly related to the factory alarm? or perhaps an aftermarket anti theft system? I don't see one anywhere in the car, but... maybe? I dunno....
Old 08-19-11, 09:08 AM
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When you use the jumper on the Starter Cut relay you are bypassing the alarm so once the alarm is bypassed it is not preventing the starter from working for either the starter has voltage or it doesn't have voltage as it only works one of the two ways. If you go back and read the trick to turn activate the starter using the screwdriver then you are using the constant voltage that is always supplied to the starter to get it to turn on thus bypassing "EVERYTHING," just like it was tested at the auto shop for by now you should have already realized that the starter just needs constant voltage, a ground and voltage to the solenoid to activate it as there are no other possibilities. You keep on trying to bring issues into the fold as to why the starter doesn't operate properly which do not exist!
Old 08-19-11, 10:13 AM
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Did you swap your flywheel onto the new engine? Did you confirm the woodruff key and flywheel nut are installed correctly. And do you know the flywheel is a non-turbo?
Old 08-19-11, 04:37 PM
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The flywheel that is on there is the one that was on the engine. I did not swap the flywheel. The entire engine, ecu, wiring harness, starter, transmission, nuts, bolts, sensors.....EVERYTHING is s5 na.
Old 08-19-11, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Bct907
The flywheel that is on there is the one that was on the engine. I did not swap the flywheel. The entire engine, ecu, wiring harness, starter, transmission, nuts, bolts, sensors.....EVERYTHING is s5 na.
I'm just wondering if the previous owner put a turbo flywheel on there. Have you confirmed the flywheel doesn't move when you engage the starter? And in one of the pics, the lower starter bolt is missing. Make sure they are both in there so the starter doesn't twist away from the flywheel.
Old 08-19-11, 05:18 PM
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The other day, my batter read 12.8 on the digital multimeter. Now it is reading 1.2-1.3

Must be a short somewhere????
Old 08-19-11, 05:46 PM
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When you measure the voltage are you for example placing the Red meter lead to the positive battery post and the Black meter lead to the negative battery terminal? If so, and it reads as you state then you likely have a drain on the battery or a damaged/weak battery from trying to repeatedly start the car w/o the battery being able to recharge.
Old 08-20-11, 02:13 PM
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I am willing to bet there is a drain on the battery somewhere, the battery was pulled from a car that gets driven, and is used, and the battery isn't very old anyway....At this point, I just feel really shitty because I am now car-less.... just want this nightmare to be over.
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