Whay gives guys???
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Whay gives guys???
headlights come on, but they dont pop up, doesnt try and crank over, temp gauge shoots to full hot, windows work but not sunroof, ac/heater doesnt even blow air... Hazard lights dont come on, nor do my blinkers, but some lights come on and the cruise control lights up.... The harnesd was never detached from the engine, and I am about 95% sure I got all electrical plugs going to the right spots. Why wont the car even try and click over? Its kinda acting like it has a dead battery. Only I knowfor a fact it doesnt.
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At the starter cut relay jumper the Black/Blue wire to the Black/Green wire(which leads to the Interlock switch) in the same plug and try to turn the car over. There are two B/G wires in this plug. The one which does not have voltage w/key to on is the wire that runs to the Interlock switch.
Do the wipers work w/key to on. This tells you if the ignition switch is getting power? Same goes for the turn signal blinkers, which you already stated don't work.
Do the wipers work w/key to on. This tells you if the ignition switch is getting power? Same goes for the turn signal blinkers, which you already stated don't work.
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Also, when I was under the car, around the trans sensor with all the wires on it, there was a broken wire. It was black and waaay small. The clip for it is still attached to the other clip for it, but the car was running before hand, I was told anyway.... So there is one tiny broken black wire. It was solid black.
#6
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ECU has no role in this. At the engine fuse box the side closest to the battery has a wire coming from the (+) battery. Make sure the connection (at the fuse box) is good and that the connection has constant voltage. Then if this wire has voltage check the other side of the fuse box where there is a wire coming out of the Main fuse. This wire should also have constant voltage. If the wire closest to the battery has voltage but the other wire doesn't then check the Main fuse.
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At the starter cut relay jumper the Black/Blue wire to the Black/Green wire(which leads to the Interlock switch) in the same plug and try to turn the car over. There are two B/G wires in this plug. The one which does not have voltage w/key to on is the wire that runs to the Interlock switch.
Do the wipers work w/key to on. This tells you if the ignition switch is getting power? Same goes for the turn signal blinkers, which you already stated don't work.
Do the wipers work w/key to on. This tells you if the ignition switch is getting power? Same goes for the turn signal blinkers, which you already stated don't work.
#11
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my car acted up and did weird things similar to this. found out my interior fuse box was full of curosion (sp?) if you see any curosion in it buy some mass air flow sensor cleaner that is safe for plastic, unplug your battery and soak the fuse box multiple times.. worked for me but idk if you have the same issue...
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So, The starter cut relay was jumped, and it started trying to spin(the starter). It's like the teeth aren't jumping off the starter, and when the relay was put back to normal, it didn't try and spin... bad starter? And yes, I recently pulled the engine, with harness, and put a new engine, with a new harness in. However, they are same year engines, with same ecu numbers, n350.
#16
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Looks like the signal from the alarm is preventing the relay from working properly such that the jumpering bypasses it or it could be something else within the relay causing the problem. The starter itself might be problematic or possibly not enough battery juice or it's wired incorrectly. And the harness needs to be the same as the previous stock one such that the wire colors at each plug are primarily the same. The temp gauge maxing out is an indicator that the harness is not matched properly, but an accidentally grounded out wire could cause the same results. I'll allow Hailers the pleasure of assisting you with that aspect.
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Just took the starter to kragen, it's good... the starter relay might be bad? I dunno... but also, it seems as though the teeth on the starter aren't grabbing the flywheel... we can hear it spinning, but no engine cranking...
#19
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Either the battery voltage is not enough or the starter is wired incorrectly. Post a pic of the starter wiring. And perhaps attempt to turn the engine by hand by turning the alternator pulley to see if the engine is stuck or rotates freely. If it rotates freely then you might try to jump start the engine w/the previous jumper in place (Black/Blue to Black/Green).
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Some pictures of the starter wiring.
This is the only wire I question... But, it was already broken on other car... But... come to think of it, after they blew the old engine, it wouldn't start anymore either... I don't know What it's for, but it is obviously broken. It is a small black wire....I dunno.
This is the small black broken wire in perspective of the rest of the starter wiring.
So.... Yeah. Been following Satch's directions, and it has done more or less nothing... I am lost... And getting frustrated. The battery voltage drops to about11.80-11.82 under cranking... even though it doesn't crank lol. So I am sure the battery voltage is fine.
This is the only wire I question... But, it was already broken on other car... But... come to think of it, after they blew the old engine, it wouldn't start anymore either... I don't know What it's for, but it is obviously broken. It is a small black wire....I dunno.
This is the small black broken wire in perspective of the rest of the starter wiring.
So.... Yeah. Been following Satch's directions, and it has done more or less nothing... I am lost... And getting frustrated. The battery voltage drops to about11.80-11.82 under cranking... even though it doesn't crank lol. So I am sure the battery voltage is fine.
Last edited by Bct907; 08-14-11 at 02:59 PM.
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Just wanna clarify some stuff as I was over helping BCT907.
With starter cut relay in place and hooked up, starter will not spin. With b/g jumped to smaller b/g starter will spin with ign. to ON AND start as long as clutch is depressed. With b/g wire jumped to b/blue wire starter will spin only when ign. is on START with clutch depressed.
No missing teeth on the flywheel as we spun it and tried starting it in different locations on the flywheel. Battery voltage before starter cranking is 12.6v and while cranking is 11.8v. Starter does not engage the flywheel at any time while spinning.
when the starter was tested at kragens, it would get stuck in the out position about 25% of the time, but eventually pup back in to place on its own. People at kragens gave the starter a clean bill of health, but I am skeptical on that.
I am thinking one issue might be anti theft issue, and another might be starter.
With starter cut relay in place and hooked up, starter will not spin. With b/g jumped to smaller b/g starter will spin with ign. to ON AND start as long as clutch is depressed. With b/g wire jumped to b/blue wire starter will spin only when ign. is on START with clutch depressed.
No missing teeth on the flywheel as we spun it and tried starting it in different locations on the flywheel. Battery voltage before starter cranking is 12.6v and while cranking is 11.8v. Starter does not engage the flywheel at any time while spinning.
when the starter was tested at kragens, it would get stuck in the out position about 25% of the time, but eventually pup back in to place on its own. People at kragens gave the starter a clean bill of health, but I am skeptical on that.
I am thinking one issue might be anti theft issue, and another might be starter.
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Just wanna clarify some stuff as I was over helping BCT907.
With starter cut relay in place and hooked up, starter will not spin. With b/g jumped to smaller b/g starter will spin with ign. to ON AND start as long as clutch is depressed. With b/g wire jumped to b/blue wire starter will spin only when ign. is on START with clutch depressed.
No missing teeth on the flywheel as we spun it and tried starting it in different locations on the flywheel. Battery voltage before starter cranking is 12.6v and while cranking is 11.8v. Starter does not engage the flywheel at any time while spinning.
when the starter was tested at kragens, it would get stuck in the out position about 25% of the time, but eventually pup back in to place on its own. People at kragens gave the starter a clean bill of health, but I am skeptical on that.
I am thinking one issue might be anti theft issue, and another might be starter.
With starter cut relay in place and hooked up, starter will not spin. With b/g jumped to smaller b/g starter will spin with ign. to ON AND start as long as clutch is depressed. With b/g wire jumped to b/blue wire starter will spin only when ign. is on START with clutch depressed.
No missing teeth on the flywheel as we spun it and tried starting it in different locations on the flywheel. Battery voltage before starter cranking is 12.6v and while cranking is 11.8v. Starter does not engage the flywheel at any time while spinning.
when the starter was tested at kragens, it would get stuck in the out position about 25% of the time, but eventually pup back in to place on its own. People at kragens gave the starter a clean bill of health, but I am skeptical on that.
I am thinking one issue might be anti theft issue, and another might be starter.
Yeah, what this guy said. He knows way more than I do.
#24
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The Black/Blue wire comes from the ignition switch and has voltage w/key to start and this is the voltage that would pass onto the starter if the relay worked properly. As I stated earlier the relay normally needs a signal from the alarm to allow it to work properly. If the alarm doesn't send a ground signal on the Light Green/Yellow wire the relay will not allow you to turn on the car so that is why you are jumpering the Black/Blue wire to the Black/Green wire that leads to the Interlock switch. Doing this bypasses the relay and makes the relay a non issue!!!!!!!!!! Jumpering B/G to B/G does nothing to help you as the other B/G wire is for the coil in the relay that is part of the alarm theft prevention.
Most of those pics are of no use as the small gauge wires in the pics are for the reverse lights and so on and have nothing to do with the starter. The only small gauge wire connected to the starter is the Black/Red wire that connects to the starter solenoid from the Interlock switch. The other starter wires are the thick Black wire from the battery positive terminal and the thick Black/Yellow wire from the battery negative terminal.
Lastly, is this car a turbo or not?
Most of those pics are of no use as the small gauge wires in the pics are for the reverse lights and so on and have nothing to do with the starter. The only small gauge wire connected to the starter is the Black/Red wire that connects to the starter solenoid from the Interlock switch. The other starter wires are the thick Black wire from the battery positive terminal and the thick Black/Yellow wire from the battery negative terminal.
Lastly, is this car a turbo or not?
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I'm very sorry satch, I don't mean to be stupid, I just really have no idea what'.s going on, and have next tto zrro experience working on cars. The car is s5 na.