Whats your streetported TII Motor Idle at?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,592
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From: Toronto, Corporate Canada
With my very big streetported s5 TII Motor, I find that It doesn't Idle nicely at the 750 rpm former sweet spot. I have It Idling at 1000 rpms and It's holding up well. This Involves my Microtech LT8 and the lack of a BAC Valve.
It's no surprise It doesn't Idle at 750 rpms anymore, but I'd like to see anyone elses experiences.
It's no surprise It doesn't Idle at 750 rpms anymore, but I'd like to see anyone elses experiences.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 5
From: Toronto, Corporate Canada
I'll probably be able to get It down lower (If any), I just need to familiarze myself more with the manual and It's functions.
IAN was telling me how you had the white smoke start problem, as I currently have, that you later smoothed out. He also pointed out that you have the Wolf, me with the Microtech and Ian with the Haltech.
IAN was telling me how you had the white smoke start problem, as I currently have, that you later smoothed out. He also pointed out that you have the Wolf, me with the Microtech and Ian with the Haltech.
Well, the smoke is from the pre-mix. Don't listen to Ian, he's just a noob 
Well, my car won't idle at 750 unless I advance the idle timing. At stock timing 5*ATDC, it won't really idle under 1000 rpms either, at least with my current idle fuel maps.
Aparently though, Mazda recommends 20 BTDC leading at idle for the race engines...and it does work for me.
PS: Too bad we all have different EMS's lol. Can't really help each other there.

Well, my car won't idle at 750 unless I advance the idle timing. At stock timing 5*ATDC, it won't really idle under 1000 rpms either, at least with my current idle fuel maps.
Aparently though, Mazda recommends 20 BTDC leading at idle for the race engines...and it does work for me.
PS: Too bad we all have different EMS's lol. Can't really help each other there.
Sr, my car idles at 950 with 14 dg advance, and sits at 10-12 "inhg depending on the day, once you start to break it in, you will be able to pull the idle down somewhat and pull some fuel out...Mine goes into closed loop at idle, and settle out around 13.5:1 on the wideband after awhile...as mine got worn in, I started pulling out fuel and advance...sucks not having a bac valve though, that would get old for me real quick...max
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 5
From: Toronto, Corporate Canada
Originally posted by eViLRotor
Well, the smoke is from the pre-mix. Don't listen to Ian, he's just a noob
Well, my car won't idle at 750 unless I advance the idle timing. At stock timing 5*ATDC, it won't really idle under 1000 rpms either, at least with my current idle fuel maps.
Aparently though, Mazda recommends 20 BTDC leading at idle for the race engines...and it does work for me.
PS: Too bad we all have different EMS's lol. Can't really help each other there.
Well, the smoke is from the pre-mix. Don't listen to Ian, he's just a noob

Well, my car won't idle at 750 unless I advance the idle timing. At stock timing 5*ATDC, it won't really idle under 1000 rpms either, at least with my current idle fuel maps.
Aparently though, Mazda recommends 20 BTDC leading at idle for the race engines...and it does work for me.
PS: Too bad we all have different EMS's lol. Can't really help each other there.
J/KAs for the timing, I've remarked my Crank Pulley 5mm to the right of the Yellow mark. Hence, I marked the Pulley to zero timing. If you use the 5 ATDC while your Microtech Is set at 0, you will be 5 degrees off.
Originally posted by maxthe7man
Sr, my car idles at 950 with 14 dg advance, and sits at 10-12 "inhg depending on the day, once you start to break it in, you will be able to pull the idle down somewhat and pull some fuel out...Mine goes into closed loop at idle, and settle out around 13.5:1 on the wideband after awhile...as mine got worn in, I started pulling out fuel and advance...sucks not having a bac valve though, that would get old for me real quick...max
Sr, my car idles at 950 with 14 dg advance, and sits at 10-12 "inhg depending on the day, once you start to break it in, you will be able to pull the idle down somewhat and pull some fuel out...Mine goes into closed loop at idle, and settle out around 13.5:1 on the wideband after awhile...as mine got worn in, I started pulling out fuel and advance...sucks not having a bac valve though, that would get old for me real quick...max
I maybe rushing things but a couple variables as to why I really shouldn't be concerned with lowering the Idle just yet. For one, I have a fresh rebuild. Infact, I've got only 250kms on It right now. Start ups are getting better now. I merely have to tap the Throttle Pedal to start It up whereas before - I had to hold It down for 4-5 seconds! The most Inportant reason Is I have a big *** streetport (this coupled with the above) equates to a lumpy Idle below 1000rpm. I won't concern myself to much, as for lowering the Idle. I need to start taking fuel out asap. I'm barely getting 200kms of each fillup!
But I'd like to see others with their streetport and Idle.
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Originally posted by Maxthe7man
...sucks not having a bac valve though, that would get old for me real quick...max
...sucks not having a bac valve though, that would get old for me real quick...max
But really, the Wolf v3 can't do crap with it anyway. So I'm stuck with no cold idle until the car warms up
My TII has Pineapple Racing Stage 2 streetport.
I idle it at 700rpm @ 390mmHg vacuum. It idles smoothest w/ the most retard possible on the Haltech.
11# flywheel, low comp '87 rotors, 3mm seals, 720cc primary inj, 3.5" turbo back (idles a little smoother w/ tip silencer in).
Rob builds a tight engine, it started RIGHT up!
I idle it at 700rpm @ 390mmHg vacuum. It idles smoothest w/ the most retard possible on the Haltech.
11# flywheel, low comp '87 rotors, 3mm seals, 720cc primary inj, 3.5" turbo back (idles a little smoother w/ tip silencer in).
Rob builds a tight engine, it started RIGHT up!
mine idles smooth around 650-700 depending on weather
thats w/ streetport and stock computer. timing is set at the marks and I have no BAC
pulls around 12-14 inhg
still needs a little tuning, I'm gonna try to get it up to about 750-800
thats w/ streetport and stock computer. timing is set at the marks and I have no BAC
pulls around 12-14 inhg
still needs a little tuning, I'm gonna try to get it up to about 750-800
I can't really tell from that pic how long the port is..
Here is the primary form Rx7_turbo2's engine, mine is similar, but a bit longer top and bottom...
Here is the primary form Rx7_turbo2's engine, mine is similar, but a bit longer top and bottom...
Last edited by Maxthe7man; Nov 8, 2003 at 09:43 PM.
Mine will hold onto about a 500 rpm idle, although it starts to shake the car pretty good.. I like to keep it smoothed out, and keep the vacuum up so my brakes still have some assist to them...
Blue TII:... YOu mean you have no bars on the ignition map showing at idle, zero advance? are you sure your Cas is stabbed right? or are you way into the advance?...
Edit:
Evilrotor, I seem to remember that the wolf can use the ford Iac motor for idle control, maybe you need to see if you can find one of these from a rustang or something in the wreckers to see if it works or not...Max
Blue TII:... YOu mean you have no bars on the ignition map showing at idle, zero advance? are you sure your Cas is stabbed right? or are you way into the advance?...
Edit:
Evilrotor, I seem to remember that the wolf can use the ford Iac motor for idle control, maybe you need to see if you can find one of these from a rustang or something in the wreckers to see if it works or not...Max
Last edited by Maxthe7man; Nov 8, 2003 at 10:01 PM.
I am idling at 850-900 with a large street port, and LT-8. The motor has about 350miles on it, and idles nice and smooth. I have been pulling fuel out of the idle map, and it keeps getting better and better with age. I also have no bac.
Blue TII:... YOu mean you have no bars on the ignition map showing at idle, zero advance? are you sure your Cas is stabbed right? or are you way into the advance?...
Yep. It is normal for streetports to idle smoother w/ very retarded ignition at idle.
The CAS was definitely stabbed right and checked w/ timing light on pulley- before and after the ignition amps and aftermarket coils were added.
Yep. It is normal for streetports to idle smoother w/ very retarded ignition at idle.
The CAS was definitely stabbed right and checked w/ timing light on pulley- before and after the ignition amps and aftermarket coils were added.
Originally posted by BLUE TII
Blue TII:... YOu mean you have no bars on the ignition map showing at idle, zero advance? are you sure your Cas is stabbed right? or are you way into the advance?...
Yep. It is normal for streetports to idle smoother w/ very retarded ignition at idle.
The CAS was definitely stabbed right and checked w/ timing light on pulley- before and after the ignition amps and aftermarket coils were added.
Blue TII:... YOu mean you have no bars on the ignition map showing at idle, zero advance? are you sure your Cas is stabbed right? or are you way into the advance?...
Yep. It is normal for streetports to idle smoother w/ very retarded ignition at idle.
The CAS was definitely stabbed right and checked w/ timing light on pulley- before and after the ignition amps and aftermarket coils were added.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 5
From: Toronto, Corporate Canada
Max, something I noticed with the LT8 - When I made an attempt to adjust my timing, I forgot to lock It Into the Handcontroller. I noticed I couldn't line up the mark to the pin for crap. Was that the LT8 counteracting my adjustments to suit the LT8 settings? Nonetheless, I haven't made an attempt until later on this day. I'll know than.





