rurouni2071

Okay.. I really need some help here ! My 87 TII was doing some wierd things awhile back .. dying while idling after it warmed up.. it slowly got worse until it just wouldn't start

that was about 2 months ago .. after trying everything that came to mind and a large bill at a few local shops , none with any rotory experience , I put the car in storage till I stopped obcessing about it


now that I have some time and a bit more patience , I would like to find out what the promblem is .. but I dont know where to start , can anyone give me some help?

SimplyComplex

Vaccume lines.

tjeter

Check for leaking gaskets also

drugblock12a

iTrader: (7)

A compression test couldn't hurt. It doesn't cost anything and takes 5 mintues. I'm paranoid because my motor now has no compression.

rurouni2071

I need to get ahold of a testor that doesnt have a check valve , the one on mine isnt removeable . I also picked up a big chunk of vac line , so I'll start replacing them tomorrow

DarkKnightFC

AFM, TPS??? Compression test first tho. Everything that came to mind doesn't always do it. Do a search and you'll have a list of things to do for a week. Could be alternator related. But I would assume that a shop would have checked that.

rurouni2071

Okay .. well I did a compression test with a piston tester, removing the check valve and unplugging the inj fuse ,... I got 3 steady beats of 60 psi on both rotors ... I know that it should be at least 90 ... but if it was blown wouldnt it be irregular .. or even if one was down but both put out a steady 60 ...

the engine is only supposed to have 60 k kms on it and I have only put on maybe 2k since buying it ..

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

was the engine warmed up before you did teh compression test? A cold engine, especially one sitting like yours has, will have lower comp numbers.

rurouni2071

no it wasn't warmed up.. due to the fact that I cant start it , i didnt think that they would be that low ... so would it be safe to say that the block itself is okay?

rurouni2071

yes the shop did test my alternator and it was better than fine , its a S5 alt and looks pretty new

I did some searching in the archives and couldn't find a clear wsay to test the afm so I'm going to check the haynes manual and see if I can find out there , also is there a way to test the fuel system for leaks?
cause when I pulled the plugs berfore they were wet most of the time

wierd timing too .. it all started doing this when it began to get nice outside... sigh

ryurgin

have you tested for spark and fuel pressure yet?

rurouni2071

I have spark , and my coils are within the specs ,well one is close to out but still ok.. fuel pressure I havent checked
I dont have a pressure gauge , should I do that as my next step? I skipped that when I was checking before because the car was running rich , whenever I pulled out the plugs they were damp..

rurouni2071

well I tested my AFM with a multimeter and it checks out fine.. what else should i check next I want to check my injectors , ould a leak cause these symptoms? if so how does one test them?

rurouni2071

okay I got a bay cleared out so I can work on my car in relative peace, this weekend I'm going to pull off the UIM what should I check aside from my injectors ?

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Shoot man... If you did the comp. test right then your motor is seriously done. 60psi is really bad. Can you explain the method you used?

BTW, a cold motor would put out higher numbers, not lower.

How did it run when you first installed it?

rurouni2071

I just went over how to test and I forgot hold the throttle open when we cranked it.. I'll try to get ahold of a tester again and get a proper reading..

rurouni2071

okay I still didnt do a proper comp test ,sorry.. but I started fixing the electrical issues it had .. now It starts and runs for 5 seconds or so then dies also while working my way through I found some connections I thought were odd... on my wiring harness the terminals 3I and 2B ,which according to my manual says are the main relay and pressure sensor , are spliced together ? is that supposed to be like that ?... I imagine it was for a reason but I cant figure why?
thanks - Byron

sykminded

i can't say i'm educated on such a subject, but i can't help but say - yeah no... that doesn't sound right

rurouni2071

the part that really frustrates me is .. i dont know where they are supposed to run so that I can fix them... unless someone can tell me that they are like that for a reason??? any help would be VERY greatly appreciated
-Byron

rurouni2071

well, I am going to work on the wiring later , it was like that when I bought it and it was running fine then ... but work on my car has been put on hold for the next few days ... as a truck decided to park in my shop ... I cant believe it ... how can my luck be sooo bad oh well I guess its back to the planning phase , I can still work on it , but the power is out till its repaired and that leaves only a few hours of daylight after work
<sigh> why me...

rurouni2071

okay I got electricity back , I tesed my coils and my T1 coil is out of spec
1.3 but this is with the car cold... I also pulled the plugs and checked them , both trailing plugs were wet
oh and its back to not starting at all , it feels like it wants to but cant quite make it
can anyone give me any suggestions , please?

rurouni2071

K I figured it out ... it was a couple broken connections in the AFM harness... its up and running again .. back on the road soon
A huge thanks to everyone who gave their input and tried to help ,
you guys are awesome , I dont know where I'd be without the vast resources everyone here contributes to ,
Thanks - Byron

Boostmaniac

That is one hell of a parking job!

If he really had 60 psi of compression, his car would flood like Noah was back in town.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

2 words.

CAR

WASH

rurouni2071

no I messed up testing , I forgot to hold the throttle open when I tested it