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What's this RX-7 worth?

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Old 04-13-04, 04:30 PM
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Question What's this RX-7 worth?

Later this week I might purchase this RX-7 (details below) and I want to know what I should pay for it.


Details of the 1987 Base N/A RX-7:

- 59,000 miles

- mostly a Florida car, no rust

- driver's side fender has a sizeable dent/hole that needs fixing

- needs new tires soon

- Jim of JPR Imports in NJ found the compression to be 79 PSI, but it has even pulses along all faces.

After discussing the compression test results with Jim, he and I agreed that if I were to buy the car it would be risky as far as engine life is concerned. So I could buy the car and spend a few thousand rebuilding it immediately or I could wait until it blows whenever that might be.

I DID take the car for a test drive and it started right up fine, idled fine, and accelerated smoothly to redline.

I would really appreciate thoughts and opinions on this and what you guys think the car is worth. Before the horrible compression results I was going to pay $2100.

Thanks
Old 04-13-04, 04:35 PM
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Considering it's a base, and needs body work/engine rebuild (probable) and tires, i'd go no more than $1500, but that's just my personal opinion. You have to decide what the car's worth to you, how easy it is to find another in your area, and factor all of that into it.
Old 04-13-04, 04:46 PM
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i personally would not do it i sold my GXl for $1950 has 130k miles on it and still holds a VERy good compression of about 95 in front 97 in rear for 130k i wouldnt really buy the car...
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Old 04-13-04, 05:05 PM
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Talk them down a bit. The body is messed up and the motor is not going to last too long. I wouldn't buy it for 2100.
Old 04-13-04, 06:45 PM
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I would pass on it unless you could get it below 1500.
Old 04-13-04, 08:33 PM
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The body isn't that messed up at all. Just a dent/hole that needs to be fixed. I have "connections" for that stuff so it wouldn't be a huge expense.
Old 04-13-04, 08:38 PM
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Also, you have to consider that even though the engine is on its last legs, the rest of the car is probably representative of its 59,000 miles.

Any other thoughts on this? I'm going to be talking to the owner tonight.
Old 04-13-04, 08:51 PM
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Hmm i'm hoping that those compression numbers are wrong thats just too low, maybe try another compression test just to be sure if it really is that bad plan on a new motor or rebuild soon
Old 04-13-04, 09:21 PM
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Jim the mechanic at the rotary shop stood by the numbers and is also surprised they are so low. He has done numerous rotary compression tests so I'll definitely take his word on this.
Old 04-13-04, 10:21 PM
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hell, I got a 87 N/A base with 786xx miles on her thus far. Although shes an auto. she has no surface rust, is VERY solid underneath, and has excellent compression. Funny that she has a dent in her front driver fender as well... The car had a lot of new parts on it when purchased, and I got it for a lot less than 2100....A LOT LESS. I'd offer him 1500, maybe 1200 since the compression is so low, but only if its a 5 speed.
Old 04-14-04, 08:45 AM
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Yessir, it's a 5 speed. Wouldn't buy an auto RX-7 :P
Old 04-14-04, 10:52 AM
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ok...well i feel that the car may be priced a little high for the model trim package and the compression #'s. The car is 17 years old and with that low of miiliage there can still be other things wrong from just sitting somewhere which i am betting this car did a lot of. My advise is to hold out and buy the one you will be relitively happy with without having to do a LOT of work to... There are some pretty good deals in the for sale section here.
Take a few things into consideration-
If you are going to want to do these changes check out the prices.

s5 tails- $200-$300
rebuild- $1000-$3000
Paint/ bodywork- $600-$1800
5 lug converion- $300-500 (with upgrades)
New wheels- $600-1200

add it all up and you will be much better finding a s5 model rx-7 in the trim you like with good compression if you are planning on modding the car, like they said just depends on what you are going to use the car for. I bought my 87 se with 4k on the streetported rebuild for $1300 w/tax from a dealer (they thought the motor was blown) I have put roughly $1500 into it right now. It's not perfect and needs about another $1200 to be what i want it to be as an NA. Nevermind the t2 swap that will happen in the near future..... with that said I could have bought an nice s5 T2 in my area.......just something to think about
Old 04-14-04, 12:53 PM
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Hmm...interesting points, but a lot of it doesn't apply to me. From my research, I'd rather get an s4 than an s5 and the only thing the car needs is a rebuild in the near future and minimal body work.
Old 04-14-04, 01:02 PM
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^^^^ Right like i said if you were planning on doing the mods listed this car wouldn't be worht the money. But if you would like to have a nice daily driver and leave it stock sans the rebuild that is due, you will be very happy with the car and you can't get a better car to have fun in for that price.... Good luck and I hope you enjoy your purchase.
Old 04-14-04, 01:04 PM
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I definitely don't plan on keeping it stock. The reason I like this car is that it works well with the lightweight theme I have in mind, i.e. no sunroof, crank windows, etc etc.
Old 04-14-04, 01:10 PM
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What exactly are you planning on using the car for..? And waht are your future plans? It seems you jhave your mind made up already and i will not try to sway you, i am just trying to show you from someone who has first hand experience modding a base model RX-7 what the potoential costs are. I am curently swapping in the gxl sway bars and the adjustable struts. Anyways...
Old 04-14-04, 01:13 PM
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Again, you have to match the availability in your area, the fact that it has so little miles, and etc. Obviously try to talk them down, but it's not a bad place to start. The engine rebuild is going to be a big shock tot he pocket, so use that to your advantage and drop it down!
Old 04-14-04, 01:18 PM
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RRTEC: Plans for the car are new suspension, vert wheels, performance clutch, lightweight flywheel, headers, high flow cat, rb exhaust, aluminum hood, weight reduction. I guess if it's going to be rebuilt then a streetport too. Also, I should mention that I don't plan on drag racing the car and expecting to beat everyone. I want a nimble rwd sports car that isn't too slow.

SonicRat: Before discovering the ugly compression numbers, the price I was going to buy it was 2100. Now I guess it's just a matter of talking him down as low as possible from there. A rebuild + streetport will be well over a grand, if not close to two.
Old 04-14-04, 01:20 PM
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Originally posted by End3r
RRTEC: Plans for the car are new suspension, vert wheels, performance clutch, lightweight flywheel, headers, high flow cat, rb exhaust, aluminum hood, weight reduction. I guess if it's going to be rebuilt then a streetport too.

SonicRat: Before discovering the ugly compression numbers, the price I was going to buy it was 2100. Now I guess it's just a matter of talking him down as low as possible from there. A rebuild + streetport will be well over a grand, if not close to two.
Exactly, inform them of this, if they won't budge, i'd walk away. But if you can get them to keep on going lower (hell could be carbon causing that for all you know, so it might not even need to be rebuilt) and see where you can get it at. Good luck
Old 04-14-04, 01:23 PM
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I was told by a rotary mechanic that the only way to really see what is causing it to have such low compression would be to take it apart and inspect it, which is expensive, thus rebuilding it would be logical as you are already half way there. Does that sound right?
Old 04-14-04, 01:27 PM
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if youbuy it try the h2o thing and see what happens. Or pickle it in MMO for a week.....
Old 04-14-04, 01:30 PM
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Originally posted by End3r
I was told by a rotary mechanic that the only way to really see what is causing it to have such low compression would be to take it apart and inspect it, which is expensive, thus rebuilding it would be logical as you are already half way there. Does that sound right?
Partly, if you get 3 even pulses (per rotor) of around 80psi, that indicates the apex seals are still intact, although not sealing well. This could be because of sitting for a long period of time, carbon building preventing the springs from moving, not enough oil in the chambers, all sorts of things. There's quite a few tricks you can try to revive it (such as pouring marvel mystery oil into each chamber and turning it by hand to get it on all apex seals and letting it sit), or redlining it a couple of times could possibly free them up, or removing the exhaust manifold and spraying brake parts cleaner/etc on each apex seal and gently moving them up and down in their slots. There's quite an array of things you can try, especially with that few miles, it'd be worth it to try. But still, there's the chance it won't work, so be sure to talk them down anyway.

Damn you RRTEC, ya beat me to it.
Old 04-14-04, 01:38 PM
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Okey dokey. That sounds encouraging guys. If I buy it I will of course ask more questions and/or do a search for that MMO trick, etc.

I'll keep you guys updated on my (seemingly) neverending quest for an RX-7.
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