whats the point in advancing your timing for the n/a
i am legendary
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,478
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From: Kirkland, WA
Only some dyno time and guess/check work will tell you that.
Only real way to know and do it to its full advantage is to get on a dyno and do a couple base runs, avg them, then advance the timing a couple degrees, do a couple more runs and avg, etc etc, until you hit a plateau.
Most people wont do that, though, because it's expensive for the little amount you get (usually, can make some good power though). A lot of people do it about 10 degrees I THINK as just a general advance.
Only real way to know and do it to its full advantage is to get on a dyno and do a couple base runs, avg them, then advance the timing a couple degrees, do a couple more runs and avg, etc etc, until you hit a plateau.
Most people wont do that, though, because it's expensive for the little amount you get (usually, can make some good power though). A lot of people do it about 10 degrees I THINK as just a general advance.
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I live in an igloo
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,546
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From: calgary alberta
Im wondering physically how it makes more power.. like does it make the plug fire while the rotor more towards the exhaust cycle, somehow giving it a better boost of power?
the mysteries
the mysteries
trying to build a racecar
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 580
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From: Austin, Tx.
No the spark is actually fired earlier when you advance the timing... more towards the intake cycle. You are starting the combustion process earlier in the engine cycle.
The gases (air/fuel mixture) in the chamber (once ignited) expand at the same rate regardless of engine speed. So by advancing the timing you are optimizing that gas expansion for a higher RPM.
You'll want to run high octane to avoid knock.
The gases (air/fuel mixture) in the chamber (once ignited) expand at the same rate regardless of engine speed. So by advancing the timing you are optimizing that gas expansion for a higher RPM.
You'll want to run high octane to avoid knock.
Last edited by Travis R; Sep 29, 2004 at 04:29 PM.
knowledge junkie
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,595
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From: Atlanta, GA
The re-mapped or standalone/aftermarket ECUs pretty much let you trade more HP for worse fuel economy & 93 octane. This is done by adjusting timing, air/fuel ratios, spark patterns, etc.. to work with an upgraded exhaust & intake system ... or a streetport.
You can gain a bit more with the stock setup, but when 15-25HP is gained JUST by header, full exhaust, & full intake upgrades... why not re-tune the ECU to squeeze even more out. Then you add a street port on top of that & re-tune for that... and you're pushing close to the 200-220HP max a streetable NA can make.
You can gain a bit more with the stock setup, but when 15-25HP is gained JUST by header, full exhaust, & full intake upgrades... why not re-tune the ECU to squeeze even more out. Then you add a street port on top of that & re-tune for that... and you're pushing close to the 200-220HP max a streetable NA can make.
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