Whats the deal with water injection?
Whats the deal with water injection?
So I was looking around and came upon water injection as an option to go with instead of buying a costly FMIC. So basically i'm seeing it as more efficient AND a shitload cheaper. Why don't more people have this kind of setup? Some of you may have seen my setup as I post it a lot when it comes to questions, but the basics are BNR Stage II turbo, 3" exhaust, and all the basic fuel mods and such. My questions are:
1) Is this too good to be true? Sounds like such a better option then a FMIC
2) Is it easy to install/use?
3) Are there the cons of having a water injection system?
4) Are there any other full kits besides the ones being sold here (i forget who was selling them)
5) Whats the best location to put the nozzle?
Any other random info would be great. Thanks again.
- Brian
1) Is this too good to be true? Sounds like such a better option then a FMIC
2) Is it easy to install/use?
3) Are there the cons of having a water injection system?
4) Are there any other full kits besides the ones being sold here (i forget who was selling them)
5) Whats the best location to put the nozzle?
Any other random info would be great. Thanks again.
- Brian
EVERYONE is saying if I want to run boost levels of around 14psi over the current like 11/12psi i'd be running, i'd really want to go with a FMIC. Are there really any cons to WI?
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Originally Posted by dr.jones63
Locust of the apocalypse
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 2
From: Directly above the center of the earth (York, PA)
Water Injection...... water injection...... Water Injection.......... Arrrrrggghhhhhh....
Look people.... water injection is no substitute to a proper intercooler system.
What happens if you run out of water, or the injector clogs up??? Ping Ping POW thats what.
Water injection works, its been around since before WWII in supercharged fighter aircraft. HOWEVER, relying on water injection as the SOLE detonation prevention device is going to really hurt some motors.
I've been doing a LOT of research on the subject and have first hand experience at it with zkellers 3rd gen. I've come to the conclusion that it is viable for those running high levels of boost (like 20 PSI) as an ADDED detonation prevention system to an already functional intercooler system. If you run out of water... you can turn the boost down to safert levels and still have your intercooler to take care of the job.
Now then, some people are under the mistaken conclusion that the water injection drastically reduces the intake air temperature. That is not the main function. Its design is to lower the cylinder wall (housing wall) temperature when the water turns to steam on contact with the hot housing, thus eliminating hotspots on the housings that could start an opposing flame front to the spark and cause detonation. It DOES lower the intake air temperature through evaporation, however, not to the degree that some think.
The problem with accurately measuring the air charge temperature is that if you put the temperature gauge in AFTER the water injection, the reading is going to be false due to evaporation of the water as it contacts the temperature sender. If you put the air temperature gauge in BEFORE the water injection... you are going to get readings that don't include the effect of the water at all......
Basically... MY opinion is this.. water injection is viable as a supplementary anit detonation device but in no way should be substituted for a good intercooling system. That being said... If your planning on running 14 PSI of boost.... do the front mount for 5-600 bucks and be done with it. then if you go for monster boost numbers later, add hte water injection as a failsafe.
Look people.... water injection is no substitute to a proper intercooler system.
What happens if you run out of water, or the injector clogs up??? Ping Ping POW thats what.
Water injection works, its been around since before WWII in supercharged fighter aircraft. HOWEVER, relying on water injection as the SOLE detonation prevention device is going to really hurt some motors.
I've been doing a LOT of research on the subject and have first hand experience at it with zkellers 3rd gen. I've come to the conclusion that it is viable for those running high levels of boost (like 20 PSI) as an ADDED detonation prevention system to an already functional intercooler system. If you run out of water... you can turn the boost down to safert levels and still have your intercooler to take care of the job.
Now then, some people are under the mistaken conclusion that the water injection drastically reduces the intake air temperature. That is not the main function. Its design is to lower the cylinder wall (housing wall) temperature when the water turns to steam on contact with the hot housing, thus eliminating hotspots on the housings that could start an opposing flame front to the spark and cause detonation. It DOES lower the intake air temperature through evaporation, however, not to the degree that some think.
The problem with accurately measuring the air charge temperature is that if you put the temperature gauge in AFTER the water injection, the reading is going to be false due to evaporation of the water as it contacts the temperature sender. If you put the air temperature gauge in BEFORE the water injection... you are going to get readings that don't include the effect of the water at all......
Basically... MY opinion is this.. water injection is viable as a supplementary anit detonation device but in no way should be substituted for a good intercooling system. That being said... If your planning on running 14 PSI of boost.... do the front mount for 5-600 bucks and be done with it. then if you go for monster boost numbers later, add hte water injection as a failsafe.
Very true YearsofDecay. Some good point in there. I was reffering to just adding the co2 sprayer w/ a stock tmic and boost levels around 12-15psi on a BNR stage 2 hybrid as a cooling effect. Of course nothing makes up for a improper ic system.
water injection used to be a means of emercencey power, like NOS. from what i understand, co2 sprayers are similar in concept. itll get an intercooler much colder than water, because the co2 is under pressure. either way works..
Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
If your planning on running 14 PSI of boost.... do the front mount for 5-600 bucks and be done with it. then if you go for monster boost numbers later, add hte water injection as a failsafe.
Originally Posted by rs_1101
water injection used to be a means of emercencey power, like NOS. from what i understand, co2 sprayers are similar in concept. itll get an intercooler much colder than water, because the co2 is under pressure. either way works..
Originally Posted by Ocelot
Where can I get a FMIC for 5-600 after all the piping and such?
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...&highlight=NPR
I'm gonna have to agree with YearsOfDecay. If you are gonna mod your car, why are you gonna have a potential weak link? I say do a FMIC (not too big depending on turbo size and how much boost you are running because you don't wanna sacrifice too much throttle response) and invest in either the NX NTerCooler sprayer kit or, better yet, the Cry02 cryogenic sprayer which also comes with an intake sprayer and fuel rail sprayer. I don't really know a whole lot about turbo's, but this is simply the best route in my eyes.
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