Whats the best way to hit 400-450 rwhp? (TII)
www.bnrturbos.com is bnr website seeing no one has said that yet. and jrat used to run a stage 4 and made 350 something if im wrong i know he will say something.
this is a pics of a series 5 stage 4 currently being installed in my car with a whole bunch of other goodies. im hoping for at least 350.
this is a pics of a series 5 stage 4 currently being installed in my car with a whole bunch of other goodies. im hoping for at least 350.
Originally Posted by projectredsuns
www.bnrturbos.com is bnr website seeing no one has said that yet. and jrat used to run a stage 4 and made 350 something if im wrong i know he will say something.
this is a pics of a series 5 stage 4 currently being installed in my car with a whole bunch of other goodies. im hoping for at least 350.
this is a pics of a series 5 stage 4 currently being installed in my car with a whole bunch of other goodies. im hoping for at least 350.
Yep, 350 wheel, but I garantee the turbo had more in it. Too bad it let go before I went for a 400 HP charge.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,733
Likes: 3
From: Alberta Canada
The real question is, what internals are you guys running to make that kinda of power?
I kind of want the best of both worlds (I know its near impossible, especially with a rotary) but some what reliable (motor not going to blow up ever 6 months), powerful setup. Yes I know a V8 would be a "easy" way out, but I don't want to go that way. I want to build this car to show people what a rotary can really do.
It would also be sweet to make full boost at about 4500-5000 rpms... mmmmm can't wait.
Stupid question, why are all you guys suggesting going with a V-mount? Perhaps you could refer me to a thread to enlighten me why. Thanks!
I kind of want the best of both worlds (I know its near impossible, especially with a rotary) but some what reliable (motor not going to blow up ever 6 months), powerful setup. Yes I know a V8 would be a "easy" way out, but I don't want to go that way. I want to build this car to show people what a rotary can really do.
It would also be sweet to make full boost at about 4500-5000 rpms... mmmmm can't wait.
Stupid question, why are all you guys suggesting going with a V-mount? Perhaps you could refer me to a thread to enlighten me why. Thanks!
I'm running S5 rotors/housings/irons/RX8 stationaries/FD corner springs and OPR/solid corner seals and atkins apex seals. My motor is a halfbridge, sure it's not necessary for "only" 400hp but it can't hurt and I want more power allready!
Greddy TD07-25A (BIG mitsubishi turbocharger, good for many many horsepowers!)
Greddy FMIC, 3" piping all the way through
3" single exhaust (shoulda went with a 3.5" oh well)
No idea how much power it is going to make but I can't see this setup properly tuned making less than 400whp. We'll see soon enough I guess
Reliability has very little to do with the motor as long as it was properly built, it's ALL in the tuning.
4000RPM in what gear?
Greddy TD07-25A (BIG mitsubishi turbocharger, good for many many horsepowers!)
Greddy FMIC, 3" piping all the way through
3" single exhaust (shoulda went with a 3.5" oh well)
No idea how much power it is going to make but I can't see this setup properly tuned making less than 400whp. We'll see soon enough I guess
Reliability has very little to do with the motor as long as it was properly built, it's ALL in the tuning.
4000RPM in what gear?
This car better not see less than 100 octane (which you can get unleaded). race gas is cheap compared to the time and money needed for a rebuild.
of course there are people who do 400+ on 93, and 100 octane doesn't save you from going lean due to tuning problems, but it will give you that extra piece of mind.
of course there are people who do 400+ on 93, and 100 octane doesn't save you from going lean due to tuning problems, but it will give you that extra piece of mind.
Track Junkie
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
TB porting, Match porting the LIM with the UIM, Water jacket porting, 3mm seals, race bearings, dowel pins.
IMO the whole idea of a street port is to keep it mild and smogable. With a standalone and 400-500 hp your not going to pass smog, so you might as well go with race port and get something out of it, and maybe even a little loap!
IMO the whole idea of a street port is to keep it mild and smogable. With a standalone and 400-500 hp your not going to pass smog, so you might as well go with race port and get something out of it, and maybe even a little loap!
Originally Posted by Dan_s_young
The real question is, what internals are you guys running to make that kinda of power?
I kind of want the best of both worlds (I know its near impossible, especially with a rotary) but some what reliable (motor not going to blow up ever 6 months), powerful setup. Yes I know a V8 would be a "easy" way out, but I don't want to go that way. I want to build this car to show people what a rotary can really do.
It would also be sweet to make full boost at about 4500-5000 rpms... mmmmm can't wait.
Stupid question, why are all you guys suggesting going with a V-mount? Perhaps you could refer me to a thread to enlighten me why. Thanks!
I kind of want the best of both worlds (I know its near impossible, especially with a rotary) but some what reliable (motor not going to blow up ever 6 months), powerful setup. Yes I know a V8 would be a "easy" way out, but I don't want to go that way. I want to build this car to show people what a rotary can really do.
It would also be sweet to make full boost at about 4500-5000 rpms... mmmmm can't wait.
Stupid question, why are all you guys suggesting going with a V-mount? Perhaps you could refer me to a thread to enlighten me why. Thanks!
Originally Posted by arghx
This car better not see less than 100 octane (which you can get unleaded). race gas is cheap compared to the time and money needed for a rebuild.
of course there are people who do 400+ on 93, and 100 octane doesn't save you from going lean due to tuning problems, but it will give you that extra piece of mind.
of course there are people who do 400+ on 93, and 100 octane doesn't save you from going lean due to tuning problems, but it will give you that extra piece of mind.
Nah, I run pump...
and my internals are all stock..
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,733
Likes: 3
From: Alberta Canada
I should mention that I don't need to pass smog so I could care less. lol... I just figured to go with a large street port inorder to have a high flow efficiency, while retaining streetability. Remember my overall goal for this car is to have a damn quick STREET car, a bridgeport, or P-port just doesn't have the streetability I want.
Some really interesting advice so far guys, keep it coming!
Edit: Also wouldn't running water injection allow me to run 93 octane? Running 100 octane for a street car is just not practical lol...
Some really interesting advice so far guys, keep it coming!
Edit: Also wouldn't running water injection allow me to run 93 octane? Running 100 octane for a street car is just not practical lol...
Last edited by Dan_s_young; Jun 9, 2006 at 12:22 AM.
Track Junkie
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
How can you say that unless you've had first hand experience with one? Untill you build yourself a Bridge Ported motor you cant cay its not streetable, especially if you dont have to pass smog.
Originally Posted by Dan_s_young
I should mention that I don't need to pass smog so I could care less. lol... I just figured to go with a large street port inorder to have a high flow efficiency, while retaining streetability. Remember my overall goal for this car is to have a damn quick STREET car, a bridgeport, or P-port just doesn't have the streetability I want.
Some really interesting advice so far guys, keep it coming!
Edit: Also wouldn't running water injection allow me to run 93 octane? Running 100 octane for a street car is just not practical lol...
Some really interesting advice so far guys, keep it coming!
Edit: Also wouldn't running water injection allow me to run 93 octane? Running 100 octane for a street car is just not practical lol...
I live in the lounge...
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,000
Likes: 0
From: lathrup, MI
you can street a bridge or partial P (never seen anyone street a full P)
and you get faster spool, more power, (and the better sound track
)
as for pump gas, no reason you cant run pump. just get someone good to tune it.
and you get faster spool, more power, (and the better sound track
)as for pump gas, no reason you cant run pump. just get someone good to tune it.
Last edited by snowball; Jun 9, 2006 at 08:08 AM.
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 8,789
Likes: 2
From: Jacksonville, NC
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,733
Likes: 3
From: Alberta Canada
A bridge I guess wouldn't be completely ruled out, I just figured the car would be ALOT more streetable with a large streetport. It would be cool if I could find a freshly PROPERLY rebuilt engine for sale, I just wouldn't want to try to do a bridge myself as a first time porter.
Full Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Fort Saskatchewan, Alberta, Canada
Originally Posted by jackhild59
T-Bone the nearest Z06? 
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,733
Likes: 3
From: Alberta Canada
The project is started!
Components im using/planning on using:
S5 freshily rebuild with new housings, rotors and seals, large streetport
Microtech LT10's
T60-1 turbo
GReddy cast turbo manifold
GReddy 47mm wastegate
GReddy Profec B spec II boost controller
HKS SSQV BOV
HKS FMIC
2nd gen FMOC
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump
Aeromotive FPR
KG fuel rails
J&S knocksensor
Innovate motorsports LM-1 wideband with XD-16 gauge for display
S5 to S6 intake manifold adapter
Polished FD UIM and throttle body
GReddy elbow
cooling mist water injection
Act Xtreme duty pressure plate and clutch
streetlite flywheel
The list is quite extensive and what I listed is just the start of it. Im hoping to get alot of it done for next summer, but we will see how far I can get!
Components im using/planning on using:
S5 freshily rebuild with new housings, rotors and seals, large streetport
Microtech LT10's
T60-1 turbo
GReddy cast turbo manifold
GReddy 47mm wastegate
GReddy Profec B spec II boost controller
HKS SSQV BOV
HKS FMIC
2nd gen FMOC
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump
Aeromotive FPR
KG fuel rails
J&S knocksensor
Innovate motorsports LM-1 wideband with XD-16 gauge for display
S5 to S6 intake manifold adapter
Polished FD UIM and throttle body
GReddy elbow
cooling mist water injection
Act Xtreme duty pressure plate and clutch
streetlite flywheel
The list is quite extensive and what I listed is just the start of it. Im hoping to get alot of it done for next summer, but we will see how far I can get!
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 26,664
Likes: 22
From: n
I hope you didn't pay more then $100 for that "HKS" intercooler, cause it's an eBay special that someone sprayed with black spray paint.
HKS does not spray their intercoolers with that font.
-Ted
HKS does not spray their intercoolers with that font.
-Ted
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,733
Likes: 3
From: Alberta Canada
Heres what I know about the intercooler (from the seller):
Features & Specs
Front Mount Intercooler
All TIG Welded 6061 Aluminum, polished end tanks
100% Vacuum Brazed Core
High Efficiency Bar & Plate Construction
Inlet/Outlet: 3inch
Max Recommended PSI: 25psi
Tested CFM: 1020 CFM
Fin Pitch: 15 Fins/Inch
Four Threaded Universal Mounting Points
CORE Size: 600 * 300 * 76 mm ( Core Size )
780* 330 * 76 mm ( Whole Size ) 3"inlet
But I can tell right off the bat there is one thing wrong with those specs, the inlet/outlet = 2.5" which sucks because I can't run all 3" piping with it....
Features & Specs
Front Mount Intercooler
All TIG Welded 6061 Aluminum, polished end tanks
100% Vacuum Brazed Core
High Efficiency Bar & Plate Construction
Inlet/Outlet: 3inch
Max Recommended PSI: 25psi
Tested CFM: 1020 CFM
Fin Pitch: 15 Fins/Inch
Four Threaded Universal Mounting Points
CORE Size: 600 * 300 * 76 mm ( Core Size )
780* 330 * 76 mm ( Whole Size ) 3"inlet
But I can tell right off the bat there is one thing wrong with those specs, the inlet/outlet = 2.5" which sucks because I can't run all 3" piping with it....
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 26,664
Likes: 22
From: n
Here are the available cores from HKS USA...
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=725
Endtanks...
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=726
You'll notice that HKS does not sell the cores and endtanks welded.
-Ted
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=725
Endtanks...
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=726
You'll notice that HKS does not sell the cores and endtanks welded.
-Ted
Addicted to speed
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Kelowna BC
^^^ double pwned.
Also: did i hear that right? that 590hp NA 4 rotor only had 365 ft lbs? isnt that a bit odd? also did anyone see the huge cloud of smoke from the 1st shift on the track? he must suck at tuning that thing.
Also: did i hear that right? that 590hp NA 4 rotor only had 365 ft lbs? isnt that a bit odd? also did anyone see the huge cloud of smoke from the 1st shift on the track? he must suck at tuning that thing.
Originally Posted by importsown
^^^ double pwned.
Also: did i hear that right? that 590hp NA 4 rotor only had 365 ft lbs? isnt that a bit odd? also did anyone see the huge cloud of smoke from the 1st shift on the track? he must suck at tuning that thing.
Also: did i hear that right? that 590hp NA 4 rotor only had 365 ft lbs? isnt that a bit odd? also did anyone see the huge cloud of smoke from the 1st shift on the track? he must suck at tuning that thing.
