Whyteboy22

ignore the text on pic it was from old post when i 1st got the car i know this looks verry verry bad lol [IMG] http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/37146/5.jpg[/IMG]

rxhevin

Aint going to run unless you get a S4 TPS. You can keep the alt. Also, better check the omp, if the ecu is looking for electric omp.

Whyteboy22

s4 tps...??? how the hell would that work running off of a s5 computer? seems like im getting different info here and there. if anyone really knows thier rx-7's and knows how i can get this sucker running plz tell me. so far from wht i understand is that i need to get and plug in the electric omp thingie. what is it called? i mean i got to know what to ask for when i call the parts store or mazda shop. also where exactly is it located? thanks

hypntyz7

Ok, well, there has been a lot of not-entirely-correct, or plain wrong, info posted here, and some are on the right trail. Also, I believe that perhaps that is an intake I sold on ebay last week.

Here are my obvservations.

-89-91 alternator and wiring.
-86-88 engine
-throttle body of unknown year (cant tell by pics so far) with an 86-88 OMP rod arm installed, and what appears to be a custom bracket/stop of some sort for the 2nd TPS barrel to read, right beside the OMP arm.
-86-88 thermostat neck, water pump, and housing.
-if there is a mechanical OMP rod, there mustbe a mechanical OMP present as well.

We can only hope the installers left the proper flywheel on the engine, some people get confused at the thought of such a swap, and would try to use the 89-91 flywheel from teh old engine, which wouldbe a mistake.

My suggestions:

-An expensive option, but doesnt require engine removal; should result in a pretty decent running car in teh end: Find and buy ALL the stuff that normally runs an 89-91 nonturbo engine, and install it on the s4 block still in the car. Hopefully this will be a throttlebody that has never been altered from factory settings, and once you install everything, it will all plug in and run pretty close to right...you will always need to adjust idle and TPS settings. Note that to install the newer intake on the older block (we assume you have an older block) you have to do some grinding on the rear of the engine, to fit the lower/wider intake from the newer one. There are also going to be emissions differeces out the wazoo, and no hope of it passing a test.

We're talking intake set, throttlebody, TPS, elec. OMP and front cover to match, vacuum rack, wiring harness, water pump and housing, the whole deal, everything but the exhaust maifold and block.

-the best option, but the most expensive. Pull that bitch out of there, sell it to someone with an s4, and buy a whole 89-91 running engine, complete with everything right up to the wiring. You can then drop it in adn plug it in, make small idle and TPS adjustments, and be done with all the other BS you're gonna have to deal with if you leave it as-is.

From time to time I sell engines like this, but I dont have anything right now. I do, however, have ALL the parts that go on an s5 engine block I could sell, from a blown 90 model (I keep all the engine parts together in a box until theyre needed for reassembly, so EVERYTHING will be there). So, you could either put these onto your s4 block with some modification, or get me to build an s5 block and install everything on it for you here, and then you drop it in and plug it up.

One way or another, I probably wouldnt fool with trying to make that setup you have work properly, even though it could be done...why bother when you could just buy the right stuff for the car and put it back to stock?

Whyteboy22

Yes i did buy that intake set from you thinking that i had a 91 engine in my car. Bahhh. i just left you some good feedback i gotta say it was fast and just as described. if anyone else is thinking of buying from rotaryressurection i give them two thumbs up . as far as the car goes im thinking hard about it. it is in pretty damn good condition overall. i just dont have the cash for a completely rebuilt engine and all "what would ya charge btw" maybe if i dont do something soon with it ill part it out or sell it. i dont know now. but thanks for the info man. where do you work from?

ps:please leave me some feedback on ebay lol

wozzoom

I'm going to back Kevin Landers up on this 100%. The car you have is a Series 5. The engine looks to be a series 4 block.

Your hesitation? Probably due to the oil metering pump. If you have a series 4 block, you have to have the series 4 OMP. Without the Series 5 OMP attached, the engine computer will go into limp mode. IE: No power.

So to fix this?
1) Pull the ECU codes. I'd bet you'll get OMP and possible some others.
2) The only way to cure the OMP limp mode is to install the S5 OMP. To do this you'll need to replace the front cover on the engine.

SureShot

The simplest & least expensive fix:
Plug in an S5 MOP and mount it out of the way, just to appease the ECU and get you out of limp mode.
Since the narrow range TPS does not see closed throttle, you won't get a fuel cut on deceleration - no big deal.

hypntyz7

rebuilt s5 enigine ready to drop in with wiring, intake, all sensors, EVERYTHING, no core exchange, $1600. That's the normal $1100 for the block, the $300 core charge, and $200 (one HELL of a cheap deal) for all the "stuff" to go on the engine. Shipping, of course, extra, around $125. Return what you have as a core and get about $200 discount.

Do NOT part that car out man. Either fix it or sell it to someone who will/can, but please...

If youre asking where Im located, outside Knoxville TN. I work from my home.

Actually you can obtain the s5 OMP and plug it in to the wiring and have no further problems, without installing it on the engine. I do this frequently when selling a used OMP; I plug it into my running 90 convertible, and go for a 10 minute drive, to see if any codes come up, or a limp mode, indicating a bad OMP. IF I dont get anything, I have a tested adn guaranteed OMP to sell. Course, one day this is gonna bite me in the ***; often when the OMP fails, it kills the ecu circuit as well. One day Im gonna plug in a bad OMP and kill my damned ecu too :-(

HAILERS

****The only way to cure the OMP limp mode is to install the S5 OMP. To do this you'll need to replace the front cover on the engine******

Was it not just a week or two ago that someone (Kevin Landers??) wrote and said that all one had to do was connect a series five omp to the harness, then tie the omp to something to keep it from falling off the car, and the ECU would not go into the *limp mode*.

If this is the case, then the car can be made to run in a normal manner (which it ain't right now). While that isnt the ideal fix, it sounds a lot better than dumping the car or parting it out.

Yes, if it were me, I'd try attaching a series five omp to the harness to see if that fixes the running problem, then at sometime put a series five front cover on with the series five omp. I'd try to buy a good omp used if possible. The new price will scare you away, if I remember the price right.

This post isn't to contradict anybody. It's just that I remember that post about how you could use a series four omp on a series five, but had to still connnect the series five omp to the connector (then again if you had a series five omp why not put it on the engine).

Wish you lived within thirty miles of Ft Worth, Tx. Just what I need, a forth RX7.

Whyteboy22

I know that i trust your buisness from what i have gotten so far... so do you have one laying around that ya could sell me? also where exactly is the plug where i would plug it in to.

hypntyz7

I'll have to check to be sure, but I should have one. I can test it as normal before sending to ensure it is in working condition (not throwing codes). The plugs for it are right by the alternator on a stock s5...one 6 wire, one 3 wire.

hypntyz7

damned forum. Wish they could fix the ****. I would pay gladly.

Oh, I get $150 for one shipped.

Whyteboy22

i ran outside a min ago and looked for the plugs... i couldnt find any loose plugs that matched could ya please post a pic. Im thinking about the whole engine you can build.. read your email. oh i just noticed by my name it says "exhaust leak" im a pain in the neck i guess lol whats up with that. remember im new

SureShot

The previous owner must have cut the origonal plug to try to rig the TPS.
Maybe this will help.
I have a copy of the FSM in the link below in my sig..



(Point of reference for below is looking into the wire harness side.)
B/G BR/W G/R
(full) (+5 V) (narrow)

BR/W BR/B BR/B
(+5 V) (GND) (GND)

hypntyz7

How does the throttle sensor wiring being rigged have to do with the OMP connections?

True, the TPS also uses a 6 wire connector, but it is different from the ones that the OMP uses. The TPS connectors were black, and the OMP ones were white.

Again, the OMP uses 2 conectors, one white with 3 wires, one white with 6 wires. Theyre normally clipped onto the alternator mounting bolt, and run into the wiring harness right where the TPS and ACV connectors run in also. Look for 2 cut or unused connectors/wires right around in that area, within 4" either way, they could be taped off or tucked down somewhere out of sight.

Whyteboy22

Is there any way to "jumper" the wires or something?
hypntyz7 did you say you had an omp? u think ya could get it to me by fri? lol there is a show i wanna drive to.

hypntyz7

Other than use of some or all of the stock OMP, no one has figured it out yet. What it boils down to, in layman's terms, is that the OMP is both an input and output from the ecu, and a variable one at that, in other words it is a constantly changing signal, so no simple resistor etc. would do the trick.

If you think you want one I can check to see and test if so. I sell them for $150 shipped, tested.