I see all these threads about replacing the alternator with a Taurus or GM Alt. I know the S5 is an upgrade for the S4. I have 277,xxxmi. on my original alt.( unless the previous owner changed it. Car had 86,xxxmi. when I got it.) and it is still working. I also have an E-fan. Hasn't been a problem. Is it becuase of stereo equipment or people just have nothing better to do? Beyond putting a S5 on a S4 why put another alt. that you have to jump through all these hoops to use on? Just curioius.

 

A/C uses a lot of amps as well, factor in the lights and stereo etc and they can become overburdened. The S4 is rather weak but the S5 produces only 5 more amps. An S6 (FD) produces more than 30 amps over the other two.

 

I agree with you, if it weren't broken i wouldn't be fixing it
Sometimes People just like to mess with things

 

I have an S4 GTU (70 amps?) and swapped in a GM alternator mainly due to availability. The remanufactured Remy alternator cost me $32 with no core charge. They usually hover around the $40 range at Rock Auto. They are also readily available at junkyards since they were used in so many 90's GM cars. They are also available at any auto parts store in an emergency.

Its been over six months since I swapped alternators and haven't had any issues.

 

nice. part number please.

 

Great question. As the Author of the original https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...etness-785082/ thread, I can provide you with a clear, concise answer.

The answer is:

It's complicated.

 

It's an AC Delco CS130 alternator from an early 90's buick lesabre without heated windshield. There's a really good thread on the FB forum and another in nopistons that walks you thru step by step. What a lot folks miss is the resistor between the alternator and the warning cluster. Not having the resistor may result in premature failure of the voltage regulator. I spent the better part of a month researching and getting all the parts in.

Here's the pigtail I used. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-Conversion-Lead-Delco-10SI-12SI-15SI-to-CS130-CS144-with-resistor-/190717117047?hash=item2c67a04277
I also used a connector like this one to avoid cutting into the OEM wire harness. If I need to, I just remove the CS130 and drop in the OEM Alt, no problem. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-Female-Male-2-Pin-Battery-Connector-Plug-Wire-17cm-for-Car-Truck-/231325321604?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35dc104984

Also, upgrading your B+ cable is a must.