poor_red_neck

Ok, this started a month ago.



Some may remember my very strange 15 minute hesitation problem. After 15 minutes, the car would have a huge hesitation problem. When you press on the throttle... right when the secondary plates start to open it will just bog down heavily. Also had a very bad overheating problem... the radiator was literally cold, and the engine was overheating (yeah, you're thinking thermostat right? hah, think again... my probs. have only started).

I was also averaging about 5 mpg, due to TPS problems.

This is a list of what I have done.

Removed all intake manifolds, and basicly everything off the shortblock.
All new OEM gaskets.
New 02 sensor (Bosch)
Used TPS tested and calibrated at the ECU to 1volt.
New OEM waterpump.
New (not rebuilt) Bosch alternator.
Emissions removed properly (no vac leaks)
ECU replaced. Same series N350.
New Radiator (CSF Radiator, planned on putting in a koyo after I got it running good, CSF was temporary.)
New OEM thermostat.
New OEM Rad cap.
Replaced with a tested good pressure sensor, AFM, tps.


Problems: The car STILL overheats. I then took OUT the thermostat, to see if water was actually flowing to the radiator... still not. Car overheated, rad cold. Fan clutch is locked, so the fan is spinning constantly. This was idling mind you, in about 15 mins. New radiator, new waterpump, new thermostat(and removed). So then I hooked it up to the coolant flush machine (I work for a garage). Thankfully, I finally saw hot water coming out of the thermostat (going into the dump tank in the flush mashine, then replaces water to the radiator with water from a bucket on top). Distilled water, with prestone antifreeze. About 60/40. I thought maybe the passages in the block were 100 percent blocked or something. Nothing bad came out into the waste tank of the machine, but it was now flowing water. Still overheated. Both at idle (about a 1200 rpm idle) and while driving.

Eventually it would go all the way to the top (while driving at about 45 mph in 5th) then shoot down. Climb, hold at H (not the top line, the bottom one) for 45 secs then drop. This was BOTH with the thermostat IN and OUT.

After EVERY sensor was tested and checked, resistance values tested at ECU plugs for EVERY sensor (resistance and voltages), the strange hesitation is there AGAIN!!!!! It only did it once... I drove it for probably 45 minutes total. On the last startup, is when it did it. I was so fed up, so I limped it back to the shop and shut her down.

Now keep in mind, I am NOT burning ANY white smoke what so ever, no coolant smell (incase my overheating is from a blown coolant seal) AND no water in my oil. The oil cooler is working... and pressure is around 30 or so at idle.

This brings me to my conclusion/delima.

I'm fed up with the car. I cannot put a single penny more into it. If it is a coolant seal, theres no way I can get it rebuilt.

Should I sell the car, or part it out? I'd imagine I'd get alot more parting it out, but I just don't know if the demand is high enough for S5 parts. I'll sell every ******* thing probably, interior stipped, all body panels, and sell the shell too. Unless anybody can shed some light... those are basicly my options. Selling the car as is, with these problems probably won't bring ANY money... To those who have parted out FCs... how hard was it to sell the parts? Any help appreciated. I'm sure theres some things I forgot to mention that I have done/replaced... they'll come to me later

Thanks guys,
Jon

RETed

Are you running the stock viscous fan?
If you are, do you have the black plastic fan shroud in place?



-Ted

poor_red_neck

Yes, this is at IDLE though... and while driving.

Ah well... I'm stripping the SOB down.

Anybody need some S5 parts??? PM ME!!!

tweaked

iTrader: (4)

if it climes and then drops it is most likely a sticking therstat. Use a factory OEM replacement.

felixwankel88

pm sent