what would happen if the preasure senser wasn't hooked up???
08-25-04, 03:12 PM
#4
so I shouldn't have a vac line on the pressure sensor??? Also I've been searching and noticed that if it's not connected the secondaries won't come on?? oh yeah also I was talking about the square (pressure sensor) doesn't have the vac line but the round thing next to the pressure sensor has one (the thing with the rubber boot on it.
08-25-04, 03:16 PM
#5
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With the pressure sensor not piped to the manifold:
No spark retard in boost.
No extra fuel in boost.
No fuel cut on over boost.
No dash boost gauge reading.
No closed loop fuel economy when cruising (ECU looks for ~-10in Hg).
If that line doesn’t have the orifice pill in it, boost spikes will give unnecessary fuel cuts.
To add a short boost spike sense delay, move the pill up the line, away from the sensor.
No spark retard in boost.
No extra fuel in boost.
No fuel cut on over boost.
No dash boost gauge reading.
No closed loop fuel economy when cruising (ECU looks for ~-10in Hg).
If that line doesn’t have the orifice pill in it, boost spikes will give unnecessary fuel cuts.
To add a short boost spike sense delay, move the pill up the line, away from the sensor.
Last edited by SureShot; 08-25-04 at 03:44 PM.
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08-25-04, 04:09 PM
#12
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The one on the right is your variable resistor, idle lean/rich adjuster (only matters during idle). Left I don't know.
Also on the vac line that goes from the pressure sensor to the manifold, IIRC shouldn't there be a pellet or something inside the line? I thought I heard something about how that it's like that stock. A resistor pellet or something, can't exactly remember. Maybe someone else can say if this is right or not.
Also on the vac line that goes from the pressure sensor to the manifold, IIRC shouldn't there be a pellet or something inside the line? I thought I heard something about how that it's like that stock. A resistor pellet or something, can't exactly remember. Maybe someone else can say if this is right or not.
08-25-04, 04:23 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
Most guys call it a restrictor "pill", Bill alluded to it earlier, 'bout 5 posts back...
Another question I had about this is, if you're going to replace the stock vac line that goes from the pressure sensor to the manifold, where do you get the pill to put in the new line?
Last edited by ddub; 08-25-04 at 04:29 PM.
08-25-04, 06:02 PM
#17
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Vac switch for the auto cars, I think...
I've ran without the pill before, for troubleshooting a problem, car seemed little changed, but the boost sensor outputs were jumping all over the place on the meter, and you want them a little smoother than that for the ECU's sanity, that explains why it's there...
I've ran without the pill before, for troubleshooting a problem, car seemed little changed, but the boost sensor outputs were jumping all over the place on the meter, and you want them a little smoother than that for the ECU's sanity, that explains why it's there...
08-25-04, 08:20 PM
#20
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Does that red wire have a yellow stripe?
You can dump that AAS wiring too, on the strut tower- it's some beefy stuff, and weighs about 2 lbs, including the left side tower's AAS wiring also.
Damn, your car looks corroded to hell. Did you get it off of the bottom of the ocean?
You can dump that AAS wiring too, on the strut tower- it's some beefy stuff, and weighs about 2 lbs, including the left side tower's AAS wiring also.
Damn, your car looks corroded to hell. Did you get it off of the bottom of the ocean?
Corroded you say?
08-25-04, 08:38 PM
#22
man thats not cool 
Right now before looks I'm worying about performance after witch looks will come later. What aas are you talking about??? I don't think I ever had aas. What would be the best way to remove everything with the aas?? THanks.
Right now before looks I'm worying about performance after witch looks will come later. What aas are you talking about??? I don't think I ever had aas. What would be the best way to remove everything with the aas?? THanks.
Last edited by hondahater; 08-25-04 at 08:45 PM.
08-25-04, 09:37 PM
#23
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Just joking...
You are right make it run good first, looks later, nothing "looks" worse than being stranded and broke down on the side of the road.
John
John
08-25-04, 09:51 PM
#24
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I'm just messing with ya, man, no offense...
All of the factory wiring harnesses came with options wiring installed...The AAS wiring is that beefy-looking white with different colored stripes bundle there with the 6-pin plug going nowhere, on both strut towers. They meet the main harness bundle down there near the rails, that's where I cut mine off. None of the wires are powered (Unless you happen to have the AAS control unit for some reason), so you don't have to worry about arcing & sparking...Removing them just cleans up the area a little, it's not like you're removing 100 lbs off the car
All of the factory wiring harnesses came with options wiring installed...The AAS wiring is that beefy-looking white with different colored stripes bundle there with the 6-pin plug going nowhere, on both strut towers. They meet the main harness bundle down there near the rails, that's where I cut mine off. None of the wires are powered (Unless you happen to have the AAS control unit for some reason), so you don't have to worry about arcing & sparking...Removing them just cleans up the area a little, it's not like you're removing 100 lbs off the car
08-25-04, 10:04 PM
#25
lol thanks guys! Yall had me out side cleaning my engine bay for the past hour Anyways I just took out my power steering, subzero start assist and am wondering if I should also take out the charcole canister??? I don't have any smog so I'm guessing I can just cap it off right??? And thanks wayne I'm going to cut that connector off as well, on both sides.
Anyways I just took out my power steering, subzero start assist and am wondering if I should also take out the charcole canister??? I don't have any smog so I'm guessing I can just cap it off right??? And thanks wayne I'm going to cut that connector off as well, on both sides.