what tools needed to gank a LSD from a 86 Turbo2??
10-08-04, 01:17 PM
#1
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what tools needed to gank a LSD from a 86 Turbo2??
Hi there,
Im going to be attempting to pull the front brakes, and rear differential from a 1986 Turbo 2 at a boneyard a couple hours away, tomorrow.
what special tools may I need to get the rear diff out? I have a very good tool assortment of all the basics, but wanted to know if there's anything weird or special I will need to get that whole diff assembly out. Im not taking the housing apart to get the innards out, I assume I'll be doing better to just take the whole assembly after disconnecting the axles and driveline. I'm not sure what may be needed to get those disconnected and the whole thing dropped.
NOok
Im going to be attempting to pull the front brakes, and rear differential from a 1986 Turbo 2 at a boneyard a couple hours away, tomorrow.
what special tools may I need to get the rear diff out? I have a very good tool assortment of all the basics, but wanted to know if there's anything weird or special I will need to get that whole diff assembly out. Im not taking the housing apart to get the innards out, I assume I'll be doing better to just take the whole assembly after disconnecting the axles and driveline. I'm not sure what may be needed to get those disconnected and the whole thing dropped.
NOok
Last edited by NOok; 10-08-04 at 01:21 PM.
10-08-04, 01:33 PM
#3
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Yeah, and a big breaker bar. Those 15+ year old bolts like to stay stuck. Everything else is just basic tools. If you got an extra jack, it will help a lot when you try to lower the subframe.
10-08-04, 01:47 PM
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OK thanks!!
It's definitely a turbo2, Ive already taken lots of parts of it already, I must have the year wrong. I've got breaker bars, jacks, etc.. the car is about 2' off the ground, so I'll just go tear into it and get those front brakes and the diff! I was just afraid some sort of weird tool may be needed to get the driveline or axles off.
N
It's definitely a turbo2, Ive already taken lots of parts of it already, I must have the year wrong. I've got breaker bars, jacks, etc.. the car is about 2' off the ground, so I'll just go tear into it and get those front brakes and the diff! I was just afraid some sort of weird tool may be needed to get the driveline or axles off.
N
10-08-04, 02:03 PM
#6
32mm axle nut socket and breaker bar, with wd-40 or the like. You'll need a large screwdriver to insert into the brake rotor to keep it from spinning. And a BFH to knock the rusty spine shaft out of the hub once it's ready to come out. Remember to leave the nut threaded on at the end of the shaft so you dont mushroom the shaft if you have to hit it hard.
21, 14mm and 17mm sockets with about a 6-9" extension will be useful, as well as a 17mm wrench. I'd bring a large prybar as well, the subframe tends to hang on it's way down requireing a not-so-gentle nudge with a 3' prybar. I think you may also need a 12mm socket, I dont remember...for the swaybar mounts. Its either 12 or 14.
IF the driveshaft is still hooked up in the car, you'll need to use your 14mm to get that off.
21, 14mm and 17mm sockets with about a 6-9" extension will be useful, as well as a 17mm wrench. I'd bring a large prybar as well, the subframe tends to hang on it's way down requireing a not-so-gentle nudge with a 3' prybar. I think you may also need a 12mm socket, I dont remember...for the swaybar mounts. Its either 12 or 14.
IF the driveshaft is still hooked up in the car, you'll need to use your 14mm to get that off.
10-08-04, 03:50 PM
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I'm not taking the axles, I get those cheap reman'd. I just have to disconnect them from the Diff housing to get the diff out, I hope, am I right?. Can I just disconnect them from the diff, and leave them intact at the wheel end? My largest 3/8 drive metric is a 17MM. I dotn mind getting the tools I need, if I have to get that big metric axle one, I will tonight.
N
N
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10-08-04, 04:12 PM
#8
IN that case you can use the 14mm to disconnect the axle from the diff and leave them in the hubs. You could take them anyway and sell them to a form member, people are always looking for them. They rarely go bad, theyre much stronger than fwd versions.
I would highly recommend 1/2" drive tools with a breaker/cheater bar, you're gonna need it for all these bolts. Leverage is your friend, rust is your enemy, expect to encounter both.
I would highly recommend 1/2" drive tools with a breaker/cheater bar, you're gonna need it for all these bolts. Leverage is your friend, rust is your enemy, expect to encounter both.
10-08-04, 07:48 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by sunshine
no turbo in '86.
You're right - Mazda (North America Operations) did not officially import the Turbo II until a 1987 model.
In reality, there are "G" VIN'd Turbo II's out there.
I have one confirmed '86 Turbo II (the other is an FC331, so it's questionable) on my FC3S Turbo Registry.
http://fc3spro.com/reg.html
I've even seen one for myself in person.
I didn't believe it myself, but I went over this car tooth-n-nail, and it was not a conversion.
It was a true factory Turbo II.
But it had a 1986 "G" code in the VIN, which makes it an official 1986 model.
-Ted
10-08-04, 09:26 PM
#10
10-08-04, 10:00 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by HOZZMANRX7
My '87 TII.
Build date was March 1986
Sale date May 1986.
Thus, the 1986 confusion.
Build date was March 1986
Sale date May 1986.
Thus, the 1986 confusion.
All US and Canada FC's have the year coded in the VIN.
If you have an "H" in it, it's officially a 1987 model.
If you have a "G" in it, it's officially a 1986 model.
-Ted
10-08-04, 10:05 PM
#12
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My Vin
JM1FC332H0136982
Bought it from the original owner last weekend. Said that when he purchased it, the dealer said it was only the second one sold in California.
Not the earliest VIN, but I wonder how many built prior to mine are still on the road. Per the Factory Window stick I got with it, the only option beyond base equipment were floor mats. LOL
No power steering, no power door locks, no security. Just good 'ol low weight basic TII. :-)
By the way, went to your TII registry. Very cool. Sent you an e-mail to register mine.
Bought it from the original owner last weekend. Said that when he purchased it, the dealer said it was only the second one sold in California.
Not the earliest VIN, but I wonder how many built prior to mine are still on the road. Per the Factory Window stick I got with it, the only option beyond base equipment were floor mats. LOL
No power steering, no power door locks, no security. Just good 'ol low weight basic TII. :-)
By the way, went to your TII registry. Very cool. Sent you an e-mail to register mine.
Last edited by HOZZMANRX7; 10-08-04 at 10:14 PM.
10-09-04, 04:18 PM
#13
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Got it out under 30 minutes, not a hard job at all. Got the axles dsconnected, the cross member right off, removed the center link, and the passenger side subframe attachment, and it just about fell right out.
N
N