What are some suspension parts for our cars that you would like to see made adjustable. IE, 240sx's get aftermarket adjustable upper and lower suspension arms, better tie rods, etc.

What would you all like? It's our turn.

I'm working in conjunction with MSL (Modern Speed Labs), these are the guys that are having the group buy for the KTS 15 way adjustable coilovers. I do not work for MSL, just with them.

So speak out through me, what do you all want?


J

 

id like to see a vert rear strut bar, doesnt have to be adjustable, i would just like to find one.

 

frame stiffeners. ie. subframe crossmembers to stiffen the frame up.

 

Subframe crossmembers, I think we can do. What else?

 

another i can think of is some way to counteract bump steer for those with lowering springs, lowering the car changes the angle of the tie rods increasing bump steer. the rack is relatively close to the engine so i don't think it can be shimmed but maybe some special drop tie rods/arms.

 

the vert already has a rear strut bar welded in between the shock towers and the trunk bed. As for connecting one that mounts on top of the the shocks you will have to remove the side panels and cut a hole in them to allow what ever bar you use to go through. Then you take a regular ebay FC front strut bar and you will have to cut the round steel mounts and cut it in half (like a half moon shape) then drill new holes to line it up.

I did this to my vert then deciced to remove it. I will however later cut out the stock bar and build a better stronger X bar connecting the shock towers and stretching all the way back to a X in the trunk. This combined with a hoop behind my drivers and passangers seat should set this car into the corners like a champ evern with the top down

 

if i were to design one i would like a full coil over with adjustable everything and reinforced tie rods and tie arms

 

is there such a thing as an easy fix for excessive rear camber on a 2nd gen?

 

Yes.

 

Also the Integrated roll bar, acts as a high mount brace, making it stiffer side to side...
That ans the one mentioned ^ are all you need for DD.
Tracking it is different, but why would you autox a vert( I know it would be fun...)


^ Nice, why did you decide to remove it?
And did you notice any 'slack' when you took it out? did it turn to jello?


Back OT

Oh and I don't see why any of the things mentioned above can't be made....
Any engineers here?, a good friend is a machinist,he works on 3 and 4 axis machines...
He's told me anything I can design he can make...
I know it's a long way from mass-production, but we might actually be able to get some of these parts...

I bet they're costly though, but only one way to know.....I'll ask him about production lines, quantity and pricing next time I see him.....

|M|

 

Pretty much everything listed is already made by some company. It's more of can this company make it available to people at lower cost.

 

yes and yes


basically frame stiffing subframe bracing, cheaper strut to firewall/engine brace would be nice because 350 is steeep for some cheap welded tubes...lol

 

please go on.
i was hoping for a couple more sentences after the yes.
but alas there was nothing.

 

adjustable coilovers (that adjust height and dampening) for less than 1k...more like 400...pretty please...

 

There is the rear cmaber link that you can buy from several companies that replaces a fixed vertical link on the rear subframe with an adjustable one. There are two kinds; one that is adjustable on the car and one that you have to remove to adjust. I have the first one and I believe that it's the better setup. M'trix also makes some that replace a small link from the rear subframe to the trailing arms. They claim that you have a larger range of adjustment but they are more money.

 

A beefy harness bar that mounts between the 4 front seat belt mounting points and acts to stiffen the chassis bewteen the B pillars and floor as well.

A lighter stiffer rear trailing arm that also allows more rear tire. Hint- it can be much simplified if you also delete the fatory DTSS toe steer system that interferes with drifting/grip driving anyways.

Also, take a look at the AWR suspension bits for a good idea of what is needed to take the FC chassis up to a competitive level on the track.

Adj. camber trailing arm links to dial in each sides camber (type that replaces factory subframe locating link allows more camber change on one side).

Needle bearings to replace bushings on all pivots (less stiction).

Speedway style splined anti-sway bars.

Well, you will get ideas if you check out AWR site.

 

Group buy on KTS coilovers? I don't see it in the group buy section...would you mind feeding me some infromation about this? Thanks.

 

IM all about getting a less expessice sup set up ie coil overs, for under 2000 ya know its just a bit of a strech, and maybe a roll bar, or full cage would be nice.

 

i'm a mech. eng.

 

http://www.memoryfab.com/detail_susp...port.php?id=14

not going to ge much cheaper than these. look like good quality too.

 

They are actually very nice units, we've had a couple sets come through the shop.

 

yup, i'm planning on getting a set before next summer.

 

Oh, I know what I want!

Rear subframe bushing isolators for the FC.

You know, some of those knifty spacers that fit inbetween the subfame and the unibody and subframe and its nut to negate the affect of the subframe rubber bushings.

After getting coilovers you really feel the rear subframe shifting around.

I have seen these for the Silvias and they look fairly inexpensive to machine up and easy to install. The top spacer is slotted so you just have to sag the subframe down and slip it on- don't have to drop the subframe.

 

Couldn't that slop be negated by using harder materials for the subframe bushings?

 

Remake of the K2RD coilovers.