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What size/make are your door speakers? (S5)

Old 04-11-13, 12:01 AM
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What size/make are your door speakers? (S5)

Ive searched around but I would like some updated opinions. Im curious what speakers fit in S5 doors. If it matters even more, I have a GTUs, so my door panels are almost flat against the doors. Just wondering whats my depth limit.

Crutchfield keeps telling me I need 5"1/4, but I read on here that people use 6.5"... and stock is 4"???

Im having a horrible time trying to pick out what to put in the door... Any help is appreciated. (A nice sounding model/brand)_ I just don't want to run into any fitment issues, and I don't want to cut my door panels. Rear speakers are the same size right? so if I get something too large I can just drop in the back?

(Just so you have an idea of a budget... I almost spent $160 on some nice 5"1/4 speakers till I read people saying they were using 6.5")

Im looking for a REALLY nice all around speaker. Just want simple speakers and a radio, but I want GOOD speakers...



Also...
I recently discovered I have a leak somewhere on the drivers door that is getting the speaker wet... Is it leaking from the drivers mirror? Just seeing if someone is familiar with door leaks, because I can't find any other spot that might be leaking. (I recently removed my "still pliable" window/door trim to clean out the MUD that was hiding under it... I hope I didn't create a leak...)

Thanks!
Old 04-11-13, 05:38 AM
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4 inch in the dash. Speaker in the door is actually a 6 inch. 5 1/4 inch is easiest to find. I have 6 1/2 inch MB Quart component's in mine, but you must message the opening and sometimes drill new holes, depending on the speaker's mounts. Basket needs to be slimmer than 3 inches and you can install baffles from XTC to protect the door speakers from the elements.
Old 04-11-13, 06:56 AM
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I could be wrong, but aren't the S5 door speakers at least for the up level stereo in the GXL, T2 and maybe even the convertible for the sub woofers? Not 100% sure about the setup in the GTU.
Old 04-11-13, 02:43 PM
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I wanted 5.25" up front and 6.5" in the back and when I got them installed they said it was better to fit the 6.5"s in the front, which they did.

Stock - dash = 4", doors = 5.25" and rears I believe are supposed to be 6.5".

Mine are JBL GTO's

EDIT: DUDE! Both speakers got soaked in my doors. You can't really do much about it, apparently they're made to do that, but mine leak a lot. I drove home without door panels once during a wet snow fall and I seen the doors getting lots of water in them. Hence why my door sills are always wet. Buy the 7$ baffles from Crutchfield as well to solve the problem. My system got a short because of it and I had to remove the fronts and then the system worked again, I still have yet to put them back in.

Last edited by ryan2949; 04-11-13 at 02:46 PM.
Old 04-11-13, 04:13 PM
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If I remember correctly, it's been a while. I put polk 6.5's coaxial in doors of my Gtu's, and they were a shallow speaker with the magnents if I recall. The deeper magnent pair I had didn't seat all the way or hit the window frame or window when rolled down. and I installed with a foam or plastic speaker baffle on the back. If you have door panel off run down to your local stereo shop and they should be able to test fit a pair for you.
Old 04-11-13, 06:36 PM
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Stock was 5 1/4 but you can easily get a 6.5 in the fronts.

I have Alpine sps-610's in my front doors. I modded the rears to accept 6x9's, but to do this right, you really need a big spacer.

1990 Rx7 Vert.
Old 04-11-13, 10:28 PM
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Yes 6" speaker will fit in the doors just fine. You have to get rid of the OEM adapter and you'll have to drill some holes for the speaker screws.

I have Boston Acoustic Pro 6" mids, tweeters are mounted to the door mirror triangles.
Old 04-11-13, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by scrapp
Ive searched around but I would like some updated opinions. Im curious what speakers fit in S5 doors. If it matters even more, I have a GTUs, so my door panels are almost flat against the doors. Just wondering whats my depth limit.

Crutchfield keeps telling me I need 5"1/4, but I read on here that people use 6.5"... and stock is 4"???

Im having a horrible time trying to pick out what to put in the door... Any help is appreciated. (A nice sounding model/brand)_ I just don't want to run into any fitment issues, and I don't want to cut my door panels. Rear speakers are the same size right? so if I get something too large I can just drop in the back?

(Just so you have an idea of a budget... I almost spent $160 on some nice 5"1/4 speakers till I read people saying they were using 6.5")

Im looking for a REALLY nice all around speaker. Just want simple speakers and a radio, but I want GOOD speakers...



Also...
I recently discovered I have a leak somewhere on the drivers door that is getting the speaker wet... Is it leaking from the drivers mirror? Just seeing if someone is familiar with door leaks, because I can't find any other spot that might be leaking. (I recently removed my "still pliable" window/door trim to clean out the MUD that was hiding under it... I hope I didn't create a leak...)

Thanks!
Your speakers are only going to sound as good as the signal being sent to them. Your stereo components are symbiotically dependent on each other. So if you spend big bucks on some audiophile speakers, but have a crappy headunit, those speakers aren't going to sound nearly as good as when you demo'd them at the store. In the same sense, if you spend on a headunit and speakers, but your amplifier is pure crap, then your speakers aren't going to sound any better than your crappy amp.

When you're shopping for stereo equipment plan ahead. If you have no intention of going high end, then don't spend a lot on one single piece for your stereo, because your stereo will only be as awesome as your crappiest piece. That and try to buy all your stereo components within the same "range" of quality. No sense spending $400 on some awesome speakers if you are only planning to use an entry level headunit.

Your best sound is going to come from component speakers (separate midrange woofers and tweeters). But this also complicates your wiring and install. And you are going to pay for the price of quality. My Boston Acoustic Pro 6.5 components were $350-400ish. I bought them many years ago so I don't remember exactly what I paid for them.

That's not saying there are no good 2-way and 3-way speakers out there...there certainly are. BUT inherently component speakers are a better design than coaxial.

About your leak, I'm betting you created it by removing the trim. Take your door panel off and have a friend pour a bucket of water over the door while you sit inside and look....of course have the window up
Old 04-15-13, 10:44 PM
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Thank you for all the info everyone.

I'm super picky about doing my own mods/who touches the car... I think I need to wave the white flag on this one and just find a proper stereo install place. Thats the best way to take out the headache of this and get what I want.

At the moment my door panels (and half my dash) are already off. (I cant risk "taking on and off on and off")
Been like this for 3 months and I'm starting to get tired of it. Someone before me butchard the audio system, only my dash speakers worked and not the doors... I had to run my own wires for the doors and just removed the dash speakers... 4 late nights with a Haynes manual and my laptop with the FSM... and I couldnt figure out my door wiring. (The wires literally changed colors 3 times before it even hit the door... And this was OEM wiring..)

I currently have an older CDA-9854L Alpine headunit, a nice one, the bottom tilts out for CDs/view, I have a cable hooked up for mp3... It sounds like it can do a good job, seeing what its capable of doing with the crappy speakers in the car now. I figured 4 same brand/same size speakers should give a good mix of clarity and bass, with plenty of volume. Maybe Ill mount some tweeters in the dash grills, but currently Im using a speaker mount to hold my gauges control box. Thats how I found out someone messed up the wiring to the doors... That, and having paperwork of an audio shop that did work, back in '89... (They ruined the audio system the second they bought the car.)


As for the leaking into the door... I always noticed some water collect behind the plastic (As I said, panels have been off for 3 months) but it never got near the speaker... Recently my drivers mirror broke and started shaking, so I put another one back in (with the rubber piece) but at the same time I also removed my window trim to clean... Pretty sure its the mirror though... the way it leaks. I guess Im forced to get baffles, but I was hesitant because I read that they REALLY EFF'ED up the sound from speakers..
Old 04-16-13, 01:31 AM
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be very careful where you bring it. I spent $800 for headunit, front 6.5" speakers and 5.25" in the rear, and labour of course.

Well guess what, they broke pieces off my fragile doors and vents, and my warning light surround(for bluetooth), my driver side mirror plastic/card (they said they had to remove it to get the door panel off even though I've taken the panels off ~5 times without removing the mirror cards) and now they won't warranty my speakers after they got wet even under warranty. Unfortunately I didn't take pictures of my car before so I can't really do ****.

For the baffles, may as well buy them for 6-7 bucks and play the speakers with and without them and see if they're affected.
Old 04-16-13, 08:43 AM
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Scrapp, I am an installer at BestBuy. I hate to make a small plug for our company but...

We are insured, all of us should be MECP certified, and we aren't going to **** you over.

If you PM me your zip code, I can look up your nearest store and make recommendations, as i know hundreds of installers all over the country. I can even contact that store and let them know if they have any questions, to call me.
Old 04-16-13, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by scrapp
Someone before me butchard the audio system, only my dash speakers worked and not the doors... I had to run my own wires for the doors and just removed the dash speakers... 4 late nights with a Haynes manual and my laptop with the FSM... and I couldnt figure out my door wiring. (The wires literally changed colors 3 times before it even hit the door... And this was OEM wiring..)

Thats how I found out someone messed up the wiring to the doors... That, and having paperwork of an audio shop that did work, back in '89... (They ruined the audio system the second they bought the car.)
I've always run my own wiring for speakers and amps, especially on older cars. There is no telling what a previous owner has done. Previous owner could have upgraded the sound system the minute they bought the car. OEM systems aren't exactly audiophile. That same owner could have done any number of things. They could have used an aftermarket amp and run wiring of their own. They could have cut speaker wiring to splice in their aftermarket amps but used the OEM speakers.

It would probably be faster and better to run fresh wiring. Relying on 20 year old wiring isn't ideal.
Old 04-16-13, 09:03 AM
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JustJeff is pretty spot on.

Don't waste your time if the factory wires aren't working or in some strange condition, just run new wires. The door boots can be a bitch due to the 90* bends.
Old 04-16-13, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by jjwalker
The door boots can be a bitch due to the 90* bends.
I keep a probe made out of cut up wire coat hanger. I tape my wiring to one end and feed the probe through where it needs to go. It's much easier to grab something rigid and pull than something soft and pliable (insert sexual inuendo here)
Old 04-16-13, 11:57 AM
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I am a professional installer and on boots like these they're cake if you use one of those 3ft HVAC zip ties as a wire pull. If need be a little bit of WD-40 on the zip tie for lube and the wire will be through the boot in seconds.
Old 04-16-13, 02:58 PM
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^^^

I use a 4 foot zip tie, usually dont use WD-40 though...just a little spit.
Old 05-04-13, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by JustJeff
I've always run my own wiring for speakers and amps, especially on older cars. There is no telling what a previous owner has done. Previous owner could have upgraded the sound system the minute they bought the car. OEM systems aren't exactly audiophile. That same owner could have done any number of things. They could have used an aftermarket amp and run wiring of their own. They could have cut speaker wiring to splice in their aftermarket amps but used the OEM speakers.

It would probably be faster and better to run fresh wiring. Relying on 20 year old wiring isn't ideal.
Originally Posted by DC5Daniel
I am a professional installer and on boots like these they're cake if you use one of those 3ft HVAC zip ties as a wire pull. If need be a little bit of WD-40 on the zip tie for lube and the wire will be through the boot in seconds.
Originally Posted by jjwalker
^^^

I use a 4 foot zip tie, usually dont use WD-40 though...just a little spit.

Sorry for the late response, Im slow when it comes to the internet. Lots of good info in here... I hate threads where people come looking for help and then never answer how they fixed their issue... Makes for frustration when people are using search.

I still have not taken care of it, but hopefully soon... Ill postup the info of who/what/what/where when I get it done.
Old 05-04-13, 02:31 PM
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I dislike that as well because we'll never know if the advice worked. Because if it did than it's important information that can be used by anyone.


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