arghx

iTrader: (3)

Car is an 88 GTU. Mods:

Engine:

- Mild street port, Turbo II housings, Rotary Aviation seals, timing advanced

Intake:

- K&N cone filter with cold air box, ported intake and throttlebody, pineapple port sleeves, auxilary ports wired open (working on RPM activated ports right now)

Exhaust:

- RacingBeat collected header, straight mid-pipe (no cat/presilencer),
2.5" RacingBeat dual exhaust

Fuel upgrades:

- 3rd gen fuel pump, Apex'i SAFC dyno tuned

Drivetrain:

- ACT Street/Strip clutch disc, ACT heavy duty pressure plate, RacingBeat lightweight steel flywheel, Mazdatrix Short Shifter, competition differential mount

Brakes:

- Stainless steel brake lines with semi-metallic pads

Suspension and handling:

- Tokico Blue shocks, Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs, front and rear camber adjusters, 17" ADR Alloy Wheels with 225/45/ZR17 tires

Car put down 160@7000 on a dynapack about a year ago, but after 7k it was running lean (14:1 or so). Since then I've added a cold air box (just had the filter before) and removed my cat.



So here is what I'm thinking as far as future mods, in order of cost:

1. Urethane suspension bushings and rear wheel steering elimination. My back end feels funny when I go over potholes so I just want to replace everything (Cost: $350-450 if I pay someone else to install b/c I don't have the time). Plus I'd like some crisper handling.

2. New speakers--I'm definately not getting subs (Cost for decent ones: $200-300?). I already have a nice JVC headunit which can play MP3's.

3. 550 secondary injectors with another dyno tune, hopefully I can get a few more horses out of this. I know everybody says the stock injectors should be able to support like 250fwhp or something, but I've seen for myself that my car is leaning out b/c I don't think the ECU will let them go to a higher duty cycle. There are other guys on here who have had to upgrade their injectors without a bridgeport. (Cost: $150-200 for injectors, $100 for dyno time)

4. Replace factory GTU decals that were removed when my car was repainted (Cost: $60 for two OEM decals)


I'd appreciate any input. Please don't suggest something extreme like "oh go standalone." I have no intention of doing that on my daily driver.

MonkeyMagic

bushings, everything else can wait.

C-Murder

for power, I suggest the VDI manifold from the 89+; not a ton of power, but a noticable difference

arghx

iTrader: (3)

^ Yeah I've thought about that, but I don't know if I have the time for a project like that right now as I am a college student. I should do some more research though to see what is involved. I'm still trying to get my auxilary ports opening properly, as I've had trouble wiring up the relay for my air pump.

For the bushings I know an experienced guy who will do them for me for $25/hour, which is a damn good price. Injectors and speakers are quick installations that I can do myself which aren't going to bring up potential bullshit problems like vacuum leaks.

bacek

im not implying your a bad driver but driving school. theres always room for improvement plus the sharper skills can save your life and/or all the time and money you have put into the car

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Maybe I missed something, but why would you need 550's?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

^ Car is running lean up top (a little over 14:1) despite FD fuel pump. I richened it up on my SAFC but it wouldn't take any more fuel. I figure I could get a little more power with the injectors because I could tune it to 13-13.5:1 .

There are people on here who have needed to upgrade their injectors and are not running a bridgeport etc.

speed_monkey

You should get a megasquirt. Full standalone is far superior to the piggyback bs.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Ok, fair enough. I've just never seen an NA with only a mild street port need that much fuel.

darth fc3s

man it depends on your pockets ! but i believe a 4.30 gear should be you next move . i did it it really improved my go plus my car was in the fat part off the band alot more.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

^ maybe someday, but that's a lower priority for now. I'm leaning towards the bushings, but I may just get the rear steer bushings and not go through the trouble to have every control arm, sway bar, etc bushing replaced.