I added my input to the list below. Opinions will vary, so hopefully others will give some more input, but you will see some recurring themes here. The mods should be good for about 300bhp. Turbocharging is a nice, quieter way to make more hp and torque.
Engine and Exhaust: S4 13bt S5 turbo and ported wastegate S4 turbo with a BNR Stage 1 or 2 upgrade http://gonzaloherrero.com/bnr/index....d=67&Itemid=89 Racing Beat 3inch downpipe + cat delete Racing Beat 3 inch catback Complete Racing Beat Rev TII exhaust Mild or Large Streetport(Fun but not totally needed) 550cc 720cc primary injectors 720cc secondary injectors Rtek 1.7 1.8 Emissions removal Throttle body mod(???) FD3S dual belt alternator Aeromotive FPR Walbro Fuel pump All-aluminum radiator (Koyo, Fluidyne, AWR, etc.) Front-mount intercooler Drivetrain: Lightweight flywheel (Light is not necessary, but you will need a TII sized flywheel to fit the Turbo II transmission) S4 or S5 Turbo II transmission with TII starter and clutch slave cylinder New TII driveshaft (unless you are SURE your used Turbo II shaft will last a while before binding up and shaking your car apart) TII rear end and TII halfshafts Exedy,Spec,act clutches are all good. (Must be Turbo II size) Suspension: Strut bars are ok, They help a little. Get the Infini stock strut bar Cusco rear lower strut bar Sway bars aren't really needed to upgrade Ksport coilovers. They're cheap and good. You won't know the difference between a $2K set of something and Ksports. Ksport is cheap ricer crap. If you really don't know the difference, then just save your money and stick with the stock suspension configuration. Most street cars use Tokico Illumina or KYB AGX dampers paired with Racing Beat, Suspension Techniques, or Eibach springs. New suspension bushings and mounts Brakes: Get some good pads and that's it. Stock 4 piston brakes are awesome. A good pad will make them great.
Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
(Post 10542247)
Precision Shaft Technologies make Carbon Fiber Driveshafts, it'll cost about $1,000 but it will also shave 30lbs of rotational mass from the car.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/g9.htm
Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
(Post 10542371)
LOL, I'm getting flamed for being a retard but at the same time I'm getting valuable knowledge on something I don't know much about.
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Thanks for the build info. I'll look into it.
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Keep in mind these cars weigh well under 3000 pounds. So 200HP is nothing to sneeze at. There fun to drive and handle really well.
If you insist on making more than 200 HP, and keeping it streetable, your only option is forced induction. If you turbo your motor and source parts correctly (find a tired TII), you will spend thousands less than building a 250 HP n/a motor. There is a guy on here that built a cosmo motor with S5 rotors and a standalone making about 250. I can't remember his handle now, but you can find his threads in the n/a section. he builds motors in main or new york or something. he said if I sourced the block he could build one for about $2500. Not bad considering a PP will run way over that. That still requires a standalone. A stock TII turbo will easily make 250. 350 is doable with a turbo upgrade and a tad more $$. |
I've decided already that I'm going to do an S4 Turbo II swap.
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Like Evil Aviator, I recommend BNR. I had my turbo built by them. Amazing job, amazing service, great power, low cost...
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Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
(Post 10545351)
I've decided already that I'm going to do an S4 Turbo II swap.
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This is my first build, I don't wanna get too complicated with it and don't wanna spend too much money. My second build will be much more extensive and cost more. I plan on using the S4 Turboo II motor and tranny and using the S5 Turbo and porting the waste gate. But I'm still open to suggestions.
I'm buying my FC on Saturday from my friend and I'm going to buy a shell to use for the build later on. |
the s5 has stronger irons, and a better intake manifold, and better inter cooler.
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
(Post 10546466)
the s5 has stronger irons, and a better intake manifold, and better inter cooler.
You can see from RETed's website guide that the S4 and S5 engines are basically even in the 250-400bhp range. http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm |
I'm gonna use an Isuzu FMIC that won't block as much airflow from the front dam, and I'm only looking to push 300-350rwhp for my first build. My second build will be a 20B Cosmo swap.
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ok the commerical for the gxl s4 says 148 hp stock. add10-12 hp for s5 uim and lim, say another 10 for headers and full exhuast, and another 5 with a proper cone filter or KnN replacement filter. thats already 175 hp. and a streetport has to be good for over 25 hp at least i would hope so. so theres 200, plus theres 5 more for removing ps, and a few from throttle body mod, may not be at the wheels but its cheaper than alot of options.
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don't forget -40hp for worn out housings and seals.
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Originally Posted by canonize-ryda
(Post 10547765)
ok the commerical for the gxl s4 says 148 hp stock. add10-12 hp for s5 uim and lim, say another 10 for headers and full exhuast, and another 5 with a proper cone filter or KnN replacement filter. thats already 175 hp. and a streetport has to be good for over 25 hp at least i would hope so. so theres 200, plus theres 5 more for removing ps, and a few from throttle body mod, may not be at the wheels but its cheaper than alot of options.
Ricer math. Those estimates are very optimistic. |
i have a brand new crate 13b with only 10k on it, its not too tired.
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Originally Posted by canonize-ryda
(Post 10547765)
ok the commerical for the gxl s4 says 148 hp stock. add10-12 hp for s5 uim and lim, say another 10 for headers and full exhuast, and another 5 with a proper cone filter or KnN replacement filter. thats already 175 hp. and a streetport has to be good for over 25 hp at least i would hope so. so theres 200, plus theres 5 more for removing ps, and a few from throttle body mod, may not be at the wheels but its cheaper than alot of options.
so that's 165/175 which is about what we actually see. if you wanted more, you can contact gtorx7. and he can make you a really nice header/exhaust. the street port might do 25, but its limited by the stock intake manifold. |
It already has no power steering, and I've got the exhaust manifold with no exhaust so it's unrestricted.
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what do you mean "no exhaust"?
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probably means no piping after the manifold, or no mufflers and just straight pipe....holy deafening ears.
Thats pretty much bad for any power in low to mid range on a N/a |
Originally Posted by Black Knight RX7 FC3S
(Post 10548697)
probably means no piping after the manifold, or no mufflers and just straight pipe....holy deafening ears.
Thats pretty much bad for any power in low to mid range on a N/a |
Originally Posted by canonize-ryda
(Post 10547765)
ok the commerical for the gxl s4 says 148 hp stock. add10-12 hp for s5 uim and lim, say another 10 for headers and full exhuast, and another 5 with a proper cone filter or KnN replacement filter. thats already 175 hp. and a streetport has to be good for over 25 hp at least i would hope so. so theres 200, plus theres 5 more for removing ps, and a few from throttle body mod, may not be at the wheels but its cheaper than alot of options.
lets not forget some way to tune the fuel and spark. |
That's what the Rtek is for.
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The Rtek has a downside to reach 400hp, the MAF.
The Rtek is good for under 400hp, I havent seen anybody go over it with one yet. That and the injector sizing. Some people ran 1000cc with it and it does well. |
i my self wasnt talking rwhp but brake hp. rear wheel is different and depends how well u can transfer the bhp to the rwhp. so im not too of as far as bhp goes but rwhp im way off.
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Originally Posted by canonize-ryda
(Post 10549461)
i my self wasnt talking rwhp but brake hp. rear wheel is different and depends how well u can transfer the bhp to the rwhp. so im not too of as far as bhp goes but rwhp im way off.
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
(Post 10549905)
no one talks about flywheel hp. real numbers are what you put to the ground.
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