What is this piece on the coolant neck?
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What is this piece on the coolant neck?
No pictures.... yet, but see if you guys can solve this one.
This is a s4 JDM 13bt and the coolant neck above the thermostat has what looks stock; two water temperature sensors?
The lower one connects to the harness but the other I don't know about, it has a single male clip electrical connector on it.
I'm trying to install an electric fan on my car and if this is some type of temperature sensor I'd like to wire it up, but I need the info first. If no one knows off hand I'll work on getting a pic posted.
Thanks!
This is a s4 JDM 13bt and the coolant neck above the thermostat has what looks stock; two water temperature sensors?
The lower one connects to the harness but the other I don't know about, it has a single male clip electrical connector on it.
I'm trying to install an electric fan on my car and if this is some type of temperature sensor I'd like to wire it up, but I need the info first. If no one knows off hand I'll work on getting a pic posted.
Thanks!
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There is only one stock temp sensor (switch actually) on the S4 thermostat cover, not two, and it's for the auxiliary electric fan fitted to some models. The second one is probably aftermarket. Got a pic?
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IMO it's not suitable because it triggers too high (97degC/207degF). As well as running when the A/C is on, the e-fan is used to assist the main fan if necessary, hence the high trigger temp.
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pic and idea
okay here is the pic I was promising. On the coolant neck close to my hand is the exposed connector, that thing what we're thinking it is?
And and and, if that is too high a temperature setting. Would it concievably work to screw in a lower temperature activated temperature sensor aftermarket?
And if so or what not how would that work in wiring the fan.
And and and, if that is too high a temperature setting. Would it concievably work to screw in a lower temperature activated temperature sensor aftermarket?
And if so or what not how would that work in wiring the fan.
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Originally Posted by elnots
yeah but can it be switched out with an aftermarket sensor to run the fan?
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Thanks for your help Hailers!
I'm not an electrician at all but since this is the only fan I'm running and I don't want to find out the hard way I did it wrong, could you compare what I would need to do with that temperature sensor with this wiring diagram from aaroncake and tell me what I need to do to make it work? I've completed the rest of the circuit minus the coolant temperature sensor.
Thanks again!
I'm not an electrician at all but since this is the only fan I'm running and I don't want to find out the hard way I did it wrong, could you compare what I would need to do with that temperature sensor with this wiring diagram from aaroncake and tell me what I need to do to make it work? I've completed the rest of the circuit minus the coolant temperature sensor.
Thanks again!
#14
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if its your only fan and your truly concerned about keeping the car cool, why not hard wire to run when the key is on? or run with a switch?
Otherwise that fan will be kicking in and out in and out in and out with the thermostat, which really isn't a problem, it just drains more amps. But the stock clutch fan isn't designed to come on at a certain temperature, why rig it otherwise? Also with a switch that is powered directly off the battery, on can leave the fan running for cool down after some fun runs
Otherwise that fan will be kicking in and out in and out in and out with the thermostat, which really isn't a problem, it just drains more amps. But the stock clutch fan isn't designed to come on at a certain temperature, why rig it otherwise? Also with a switch that is powered directly off the battery, on can leave the fan running for cool down after some fun runs
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The other temperature sensor connects to the harness for what I'm assuming is the WTS gauge.
And I've read alot of people's opinions on when to run an E-fan. I think this is the best set up for my application.
I had a Ford Probe GT that had some electrical issues, one of which was fan related so we hard wired a switch to the passenger compartment. It was pretty ghetto fabulous and sometimes I'd forget to turn it on so I'd rather eliminate myself from the equation.
I'd like the car's cooling system to police itself as if it was stock, IE, cooling itself when needed.
Plus turbo's run hot and mine is no exception, I don't mind the extra pull on the battery after the car is off since it's doing it's job anyway. And also I don't want it running all the time as I've heard warnings against running the engine too cold. Most of the time driving places doesn't allow me the time to let the rex warm up for ten minutes or so before driving it.
I do try and let it warm up a bit before driving, but it's like 2 to 3 minutes. And also never boost when the engine is still cool..
If I run into several dead batteries as a result (Pending succesful wiring of course) of the fan running with the car off. Then I'll look into the added ignition control as I have the other wiring diagram as well.
I'd like to test this set up on my car first though as a preference.
And I've read alot of people's opinions on when to run an E-fan. I think this is the best set up for my application.
I had a Ford Probe GT that had some electrical issues, one of which was fan related so we hard wired a switch to the passenger compartment. It was pretty ghetto fabulous and sometimes I'd forget to turn it on so I'd rather eliminate myself from the equation.
I'd like the car's cooling system to police itself as if it was stock, IE, cooling itself when needed.
Plus turbo's run hot and mine is no exception, I don't mind the extra pull on the battery after the car is off since it's doing it's job anyway. And also I don't want it running all the time as I've heard warnings against running the engine too cold. Most of the time driving places doesn't allow me the time to let the rex warm up for ten minutes or so before driving it.
I do try and let it warm up a bit before driving, but it's like 2 to 3 minutes. And also never boost when the engine is still cool..
If I run into several dead batteries as a result (Pending succesful wiring of course) of the fan running with the car off. Then I'll look into the added ignition control as I have the other wiring diagram as well.
I'd like to test this set up on my car first though as a preference.
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Originally Posted by classicauto
if its your only fan and your truly concerned about keeping the car cool, why not hard wire to run when the key is on?
or run with a switch?
Otherwise that fan will be kicking in and out in and out in and out with the thermostat...
...which really isn't a problem, it just drains more amps.
But the stock clutch fan isn't designed to come on at a certain temperature...
You need to do a lot more learning on how cooling systems work...
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Thanks for paying attention to the details NZ
But I still need confirmation that all I have to do to make that wiring diagram complete is plug the fan into the TS? If I was using the engine as the ground? Like I said the relay and battery connections are all complete, just not the WTS. But I need to know how that sucker works!
Many thanks for you guys saving my ***.
*sniff* you know.. I love you guys..
But I still need confirmation that all I have to do to make that wiring diagram complete is plug the fan into the TS? If I was using the engine as the ground? Like I said the relay and battery connections are all complete, just not the WTS. But I need to know how that sucker works!
Many thanks for you guys saving my ***.
*sniff* you know.. I love you guys..
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Originally Posted by elnots
I still need confirmation that all I have to do to make that wiring diagram complete is plug the fan into the TS?
I still think you shouldn't use that switch. Too hot...
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I'm not planning on using the switch in the vehicle currently as the whole purpose for the set up is to keep the car from getting overly hot in an already hot running engine, and like you said it's temperature is high. I'm going to take it out tonight and take the sensor to o-rielly's tomorrow and see what they can offer me.
I'd like to come out with a switch that's open-switch with an activation temperature of what, 180 degrees?
Actually maybe you could give me some more advice then? What temperature should the switch be set to come on at? I'd assume it'd need to be slightly cooler than what the engine should be temperature wise. 180 sounds right but I'm just guessing.
I'd like to come out with a switch that's open-switch with an activation temperature of what, 180 degrees?
Actually maybe you could give me some more advice then? What temperature should the switch be set to come on at? I'd assume it'd need to be slightly cooler than what the engine should be temperature wise. 180 sounds right but I'm just guessing.
#21
Originally Posted by elnots
I'd like to come out with a switch that's open-switch with an activation temperature of what, 180 degrees?
Secondly, it does exactly what you want.
The SENSOR is CLOSED (i.e. on) at less than 180 deg. and OPEN at greater than 180 deg.
The RELAY is normally CLOSED, operating the FAN.
The sensor operates the relay so:
Sensor CLOSED (cold) causes Relay OPEN causes FAN OFF.
Sensor OPEN (hot) causes Relay CLOSED causes FAN ON.
If you put your sensor in series with the fan, I'm sure the fan's amperage would trash your sensor.
I'm certain AaronCake would have put this in his writeup, since he is usually so thorough.
-Goofy
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The sensor so far is hooked up to the coil ground side. Other end of coil is connected to fuse then battery.
Fan positive is hooked to 87 I believe, switching means. And negative is directly connected to battery.
Will try and be more specific when I get home and can check it out
Fan positive is hooked to 87 I believe, switching means. And negative is directly connected to battery.
Will try and be more specific when I get home and can check it out
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Originally Posted by elnots
I'm not planning on using the switch in the vehicle currently as the whole purpose for the set up is to keep the car from getting overly hot in an already hot running engine, and like you said it's temperature is high.
I'd like to come out with a switch that's open-switch with an activation temperature of what, 180 degrees?
What temperature should the switch be set to come on at? I'd assume it'd need to be slightly cooler than what the engine should be temperature wise. 180 sounds right but I'm just guessing.
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