What Kind of Engine Oil and what Weight
04-20-02, 05:13 PM
#4
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20W40 will be fine. So will 10w30 / 10w40 / 10w50 in the temp ranges you will be anticipating within the next couple months.
I personally run Valvoline Duralube 15w40 in my car during the summer months. Never had a problem with the car smoking more than a few minutes upon a completely cold start. Drain the oil after 3k miles and it still has a nice texture to it, like new oil does. Doesn't seem broken down at all yet. In fact, had some people joke with me that they were going to use my drained oil in their vehicles.
Some people will tell you to stay away from semi- or full-synthetic oils. I haven't seen any problems from Duralube in my RX, still runs great at 166k miles.
I personally run Valvoline Duralube 15w40 in my car during the summer months. Never had a problem with the car smoking more than a few minutes upon a completely cold start. Drain the oil after 3k miles and it still has a nice texture to it, like new oil does. Doesn't seem broken down at all yet. In fact, had some people joke with me that they were going to use my drained oil in their vehicles.
Some people will tell you to stay away from semi- or full-synthetic oils. I haven't seen any problems from Duralube in my RX, still runs great at 166k miles.
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04-20-02, 07:04 PM
#8
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
search function is broken again?
Above 20F: 20w/50
Below 40F: 10w/30
below freezing: 5w/30
although the Mazda recommendations also allow 10W40 and 10w50, those weights should be avoided in a rotary (or any high performance engine) as the additives needed to get that range of viscosity will not burn off as clean and cause those weights of oil to have a considerably higher ash content.
Above 20F: 20w/50
Below 40F: 10w/30
below freezing: 5w/30
although the Mazda recommendations also allow 10W40 and 10w50, those weights should be avoided in a rotary (or any high performance engine) as the additives needed to get that range of viscosity will not burn off as clean and cause those weights of oil to have a considerably higher ash content.
04-20-02, 11:49 PM
#10
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
5W30 and 10W30 are common "fuel efficent" piston motor oils, but really only work well on piston engines made over the last 10 years and of superior tolerences.
The 13B rotary is kinda like the classic Toyota 22R or 5MG motor. Either would be simularly damaged using such a light weight oil (as a 5W30) in warmer temps.
But any newer Honda motor or Miata/Protege motor would actually have problems using a 20W50 like our motors.
So many new car dealers get one grade (because it is cheap) and put that into anything that comes in.
As far as they are concerned the motor only has to last as long as the warrenty. After that it is pure profit to rebuild. So they seldom pay attention to what the car really needs too last forever.
The 13B rotary is kinda like the classic Toyota 22R or 5MG motor. Either would be simularly damaged using such a light weight oil (as a 5W30) in warmer temps.
But any newer Honda motor or Miata/Protege motor would actually have problems using a 20W50 like our motors.
So many new car dealers get one grade (because it is cheap) and put that into anything that comes in.
As far as they are concerned the motor only has to last as long as the warrenty. After that it is pure profit to rebuild. So they seldom pay attention to what the car really needs too last forever.
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