What is involved in going from S4 TII to S5 JDM TII engine?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
If you are just changing the engine block, then you need to install all the S4 electronics and manifolds. This is by far the easiest way.
If you are wanting to use the S5 electronics, you basically need to rewire the front half of the car.
If you are wanting to use the S5 electronics, you basically need to rewire the front half of the car.
Originally Posted by Sideways7
Make sure you get all the parts (including ECU) from the j-spec and drop it in. Just remember that the j-spec has no emmissions crap on it.
I am most likely just going to buy a longblock... or is this not a good idea? I'm not worried about emissions... I have removed all of mine on the current setup.
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
If you are just changing the engine block, then you need to install all the S4 electronics and manifolds. This is by far the easiest way.
If you are wanting to use the S5 electronics, you basically need to rewire the front half of the car.
If you are wanting to use the S5 electronics, you basically need to rewire the front half of the car.
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Only if you swap the S4 intakes and electronics onto the S5 block. There are a few differences (temp sensor threads), but it's fairly straightforward.

... I would be able to use my stock Intake, and electronics, ECU, and then just swap the rest?
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Play Well
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,218
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From: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
if you are looking for basicaly everything top do the swap itll cost you 1450 from this site
http://www.jspecautosports.com/catal...px?prod_id=168 my freind got a motor from them and I am about to order one from them. It encludes motor ecu tranny uncut harness intercooler and all that stuff.
http://www.jspecautosports.com/catal...px?prod_id=168 my freind got a motor from them and I am about to order one from them. It encludes motor ecu tranny uncut harness intercooler and all that stuff.
They're telling you that the metering oil pump will have to be changed to the series four type because the ECU (series four) will not control the series five metering oil pump (swap front covers).
The tps for the series five is different than the series four. The series four tps will not bolt to the series five manifold. Frankly this shouldn't be anywhere near a big deal. You can make the series five tps work with the series four ECU and harness with small modifications to the tps harness.
The rest of the series four emissions harness should *fit*. There are minor differences in that the series five does not have a twin scroll solenoid but does have a boost control solenoid. Forget both. As in tie them back (solenoid plugs).
Or put this way, if I was to put a series five engine in my car I'd still use the series four emissions harness and not look back.
The tps for the series five is different than the series four. The series four tps will not bolt to the series five manifold. Frankly this shouldn't be anywhere near a big deal. You can make the series five tps work with the series four ECU and harness with small modifications to the tps harness.
The rest of the series four emissions harness should *fit*. There are minor differences in that the series five does not have a twin scroll solenoid but does have a boost control solenoid. Forget both. As in tie them back (solenoid plugs).
Or put this way, if I was to put a series five engine in my car I'd still use the series four emissions harness and not look back.
Originally Posted by fcdrifter13
if you are looking for basicaly everything top do the swap itll cost you 1450 from this site
http://www.jspecautosports.com/catal...px?prod_id=168 my freind got a motor from them and I am about to order one from them. It encludes motor ecu tranny uncut harness intercooler and all that stuff.
http://www.jspecautosports.com/catal...px?prod_id=168 my freind got a motor from them and I am about to order one from them. It encludes motor ecu tranny uncut harness intercooler and all that stuff.
Play Well
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,218
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From: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
will do the one my friend got ran/runs fine. Drives it everyday. They have been in god contact with me I am mainly waiting until there next big shipment gets in to get the best of the bunch.
This is how i did mine
-Use the S4 Throttle body
-Block off or leave the S5 omp and injectors all intact but leave them unplugged
-Make sure your car uses high impedence injectors and use the s5s by changing to the round type for the s5 injectors.
- block off bac and all of the other emmisions stuff, you can use the S5 manifolds tho.
- Run a premix, an ounce of outboard oil to every gallon.
I think thats all i did, i took out the rats nest too search "emmisions removal"
The S5 manifolds can be used all you have to do is change tb.
Its alot easier to get the s4, but make sure you check compression before purchasing whatever series, if its a jspec then you need to test it FIRST! 90% of them will have no compression.
you're probably thinking my setup is getto, and it is. Makes decent power tho, S5 motor is happier to rev and spool then the S4
-Use the S4 Throttle body
-Block off or leave the S5 omp and injectors all intact but leave them unplugged
-Make sure your car uses high impedence injectors and use the s5s by changing to the round type for the s5 injectors.
- block off bac and all of the other emmisions stuff, you can use the S5 manifolds tho.
- Run a premix, an ounce of outboard oil to every gallon.
I think thats all i did, i took out the rats nest too search "emmisions removal"
The S5 manifolds can be used all you have to do is change tb.
Its alot easier to get the s4, but make sure you check compression before purchasing whatever series, if its a jspec then you need to test it FIRST! 90% of them will have no compression.
you're probably thinking my setup is getto, and it is. Makes decent power tho, S5 motor is happier to rev and spool then the S4
Originally Posted by TempestRaces
A Jspec harness will not work. I found out the hard, personal way. You need an aspec harness. Jspec harnesses are too short and missing connectors under the dash.
You can use any S4 ECU JDM or USDM it does not matter. As stated just adapt some sensors and swap the cover! no more no less.
Crap, I really need to finish that part of my web page... :P
Since you're already starting with a Turbo II, keep all of your original wiring and sensors.
Swap in your fuel injectors - this will allow you to run your harness.
I would recommend premixing - the S5 uses an E-OMP, and getting it to work means you'll need an S5 turbo engine harness and S5 turbo ECU - both which you mentioned you did not have.
About the only other little thing you need to address is the water temp sensor for the gauge.
The Kouki one uses a male spade terminal; the Zenki one uses a male bullet.
Either you make some kinda wiring adapter (male bullet - short length of wire - female spade), swap water temp sensors, or cut your female bullet and crimp in a female spade connector.
Almost everything else will plug in...
You'll be missing a twin-scroll solenoid for your new Kouki motor, but that's not that big of a deal.
Filling the engine up with coolant might be tricky, as the Kouki rad uses a really high neck to get the fill at the highest level.
Your Zenki original motor has a rad fill at the thermostat cover.
Small minor difference with the stock knock sensor...
Zenki is on the center plate, and Kouki is on the front rotor - the plugs are still the same, and the wiring should be long enough to plug into your knock system (if you still want to).
-Ted
Since you're already starting with a Turbo II, keep all of your original wiring and sensors.
Swap in your fuel injectors - this will allow you to run your harness.
I would recommend premixing - the S5 uses an E-OMP, and getting it to work means you'll need an S5 turbo engine harness and S5 turbo ECU - both which you mentioned you did not have.
About the only other little thing you need to address is the water temp sensor for the gauge.
The Kouki one uses a male spade terminal; the Zenki one uses a male bullet.
Either you make some kinda wiring adapter (male bullet - short length of wire - female spade), swap water temp sensors, or cut your female bullet and crimp in a female spade connector.
Almost everything else will plug in...
You'll be missing a twin-scroll solenoid for your new Kouki motor, but that's not that big of a deal.

Filling the engine up with coolant might be tricky, as the Kouki rad uses a really high neck to get the fill at the highest level.
Your Zenki original motor has a rad fill at the thermostat cover.
Small minor difference with the stock knock sensor...
Zenki is on the center plate, and Kouki is on the front rotor - the plugs are still the same, and the wiring should be long enough to plug into your knock system (if you still want to).
-Ted
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