What should the car do if the TPS is unplugged? My Tps finally went fully out the door today... and well now it revs to like 4-5 grand and doesnt come down. I thought if the tps was unplugged it would go into a "gimp mode" and just run really rich and all.. So anyway.. what should it do? what have you guys seen it do?

-Jake

 

on my 88 TII if i leave it unplugged it WONT rev past 2k .. .no matter how much gas i give it

 

Your Full Range went out, so did mine.

Unplugging it also takes out the narrow range so you don't get any TPS at all... it'll run but you can't drive it really.

I do plan on calling the dealership soon to see how much these cost... probably 50-100$ OEM brand new... =/

--Gary

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-6.htm

 

Sorry forgot to mention.. its an 86 S4

 

try $350 brand new

give ebay a shot

 

I got one. Shoot me a PM if interested. I don't know what it's worth. I have one from a S4 GXL. If someone know whatI should sell it for then post here. I cannot guarantee the part. It came from a good-running car that I swapped into another car.

 

Jesus christ! Screw that crap, I'm hitting the junkyards this week and SoCal is no stranger to RX7s...

Anyone know how to field-test these bastards? get a battery and plug it in? lol

--Gary

 

Heh.. 350 if your an S5 owner, they have two sensors for the TB instead of one like the S4.

I got a good price at my local mazda dealership, they charged my 200$cndn, not to bad considering its 200$ american most places.

I just bought mine brand new, I don't want a used one that lasts only a couple years, I want one that lasts another 10.

 

350 is for the S5 TPS the S4 TPS is 180.

 

180 doesn't sound that bad for a tps, but then again, im a s5 guy

 

Well, one time after adjusting the TPS on my car, I accidentally left it unplugged for the test drive. It ran rich and blew a few good flames, however it ran fine. ('86 N/A)

 

I can't speak for the S5 TPS units, but I assume it would be roughly the same.

All you need to test one is a multimeter, analog preferred. The FSM or Haynes manual will have the resistance specs you need (it's 5kOhm +/- 1kOhm for the S4). Measure the full open resistance, make sure it's in spec, and then (and here's where an analog multimeter comes in handy) run it slowly through the entire range. You're looking for smooth resistance changes. Any points where it goes to infinite or zero resistance, and it's bad.

-=Russ=-

 

Lets try this question:

My second real car was a 1987 RX7 base model...it had about as many options as my left thumb. Anyways...when I got her I knew nothing about cars...so the workings under the hood never really made sense nor concerned me. About 3 years down the line, I start learning stuff and while taking a peak under the hood and what do I see? The TPS is not mounted to the TB, and it is bound in the compressed position (don't know how to describe that) with electrical tape. Car ran beautifully, though....3rd was a real monster (for a 130hp car)...