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what glue for the plastic in our car

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Old 04-20-06, 05:54 PM
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what glue for the plastic in our car

most of my interior plastic is starting to crack/break mostly at the part where the screws go. i usually melt them back by using a sodering iron but they keep breaking.

what i want to know is if anyone had any good experience with a certian specific brand of glue. i want it to hold good so that i dont have to worry about them again. i have seen glue where you have to mix two formuals to make it harden but i dont think its for plastic.

Thanks
Old 04-20-06, 06:10 PM
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use a little piece of fiberglass and resin on the back of the pieces
Old 04-20-06, 06:20 PM
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wow thats a good idea, i cant believe i didnt think of that. the only problem is i dont have any experience with fiber glass. where can i get it for cheap? what brand is good and what is not? i dont really need alot. thanks
Old 04-20-06, 06:26 PM
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I would use goop; you can get it at your local hardware store. Basically all of the "goop" brands are the same, except that the "marine" type has UV inhibitors.

For fiberglass, just go to a boat shop and get both the fiberglass itself and some resin. I would get epoxy resin, personally, even though it is more expensive. Polyester tends to outgas for a month or so after it cures, so if you use it you can expect your car to stink for awhile.

--Alex
Old 04-20-06, 06:26 PM
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OSH or home depot. the Bondo brand is cheap price and fairly ok quality.
Old 04-20-06, 06:28 PM
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marine grade FG is not cheap
Old 04-20-06, 06:33 PM
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is "goop" the same as fiberglass? is it fiber glass? thanks
Old 04-20-06, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by darksider
is "goop" the same as fiberglass? is it fiber glass? thanks
no, Goop is the two part glue that you were talking about.
Old 04-20-06, 07:04 PM
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It's all pretty much the same, except for differences in weave stability.

The bondo brand FG resin is polyester. Trust me, if you use alot of it, it will stink up your car for at least a month.

--Alex
Old 04-20-06, 07:06 PM
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No, goop is a one part adhesive. It is silicone based, and uses toluene as a solvent.

--Alex
Old 04-21-06, 09:12 AM
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but goop does need the other formula to harden correct? is it good for plastic? can it stand heat? like from the shifter... thanks
Old 04-21-06, 09:52 AM
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I believe that there's a special type of glue for some of the plastic. I know epoxy won't work on everything. The really smooth, shiny plastic will just pop apart with epoxy on it. Is it ABS glue??
Old 04-21-06, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by carzy driver
marine grade FG is not cheap
Define "marine grade"
I happen to know for a fact that Four winns uses the cheapest **** going........very coarse roving, as opposed to fine woven cloth

Polyester Fiberglass (resin) is quite cheap, epoxy (resin) can be a little more pricy but still affordable.

cloth and matting depends on the application.


BUT


getting back to the orignal poster's question:

1) Use a two part polyester panel bonding adhesive
1a) Pro Form makes a good one, well priced as well - Dura chemicals, Fusor and 3M also make these products.

2) these work SO WELL, that can actually rebuild a missing tab from a panel, like for example the upper tabs on the main dash pad - commonly brittle - they can be completely missing and using some clear plastic to support the glue (along with a good sanding before hand on the existing piece) can be dried, drilled and used just as the original material was.

Fiberglass *might* stick and do the job - but a two part polyester is no doubt the cadiallac of repairs for these cases.
Old 04-21-06, 10:31 AM
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Really a waste of time...
You really want to keep them, get new ones from the Mazda dealer.
Good luck if they even still have them in stock.


-Ted
Old 04-21-06, 01:39 PM
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LocTite brand, Plastic Epoxy works good.
it's a 2 part mix, sets in 7min. drys completely in 24hours.
I've used it to glue a turnsignal into the guage bezel, since the screwholes broke off.
Its held up to plenty of use since then.
Also used it to repair a long crack in a steering wheel column surround trim peice.
Worked great, & if you flex the peice, it seems as strong as before it broke.
Old 04-21-06, 01:58 PM
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I had my center console break in 4 pieces.

I used Zap-A-Gap plastic glue (found at model shops). I also used strips of paper as a bridge to help the glue hold both sides and prevent splitting again.

Then on big section I cut some fiber glass and used resin.

So far it's holding like a champ.

Cheap resin can be found easily.
$5 ish for a bag of chop strand or woven from Checker/Walmart
Then 13-15 for a quart of resin(enough for a bunch of small projects.
Old 04-21-06, 06:58 PM
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dope. thanks for the replies.
Old 04-21-06, 07:46 PM
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plastic model cement
Old 04-21-06, 09:55 PM
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Every single person has it wrong.

The hard plastic in the FC is ABS

Therefore the glue to use on it, either re-moulding or glueing broken parts is...


...



... ABS cement...

Available at any hardware or plumbing parts store for less than $3 a bottle.

Man, this has been coverd how many times, and how many people still get it wrong???
Old 04-22-06, 01:09 AM
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I break Diff mounts

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Actually I used that stuff last time. Your right.

It kicks *** too

Boy oh boy do you need a ventilated area though!!
Old 04-22-06, 06:55 PM
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thanks ICE
Old 04-22-06, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by darksider
most of my interior plastic is starting to crack/break mostly at the part where the screws go. i usually melt them back by using a sodering iron but they keep breaking.

what i want to know is if anyone had any good experience with a certian specific brand of glue. i want it to hold good so that i dont have to worry about them again. i have seen glue where you have to mix two formuals to make it harden but i dont think its for plastic.

Thanks
Here's the stuff I use:

http://pacertechindustrial.supergluecorp.com/15277.html

I repaired the mounts in the dashboard with this and all the squeaks went away...and it has lasted for over 1 1/2 years and 40,000 miles.

- k -
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