hey . It is me again.
Im hans, like most of you know.. and most of you think im a bad speller and a lil irritating sometimes.. but anyways i decided i will take out my emmisions since the responses i got were a bit of a KILEER.. so yeah.

Anyways, to the point .. This is what I have so far... what else should I buy.. I need things that ARE A MUST. nothing else please..

1. OEM double copper Radiator
2. Radiator Hoses
3. Eclutchmasters clutch from eBAY
4. Oxygen sensor
5. Rebuild kit and Gasket Kit ( Everything except bearings ) ( not the basic one in atkins but the fully loaded one from mazdatrix )
6. NEW master and slave cylinders
7. Remanufactured Oil cooler Lines ( It has a hole but Kevin from rotary ressurection said i shouldn't worry about it so oh well )
8. Oil cooler line crashers.
9. 3 Mazda oil filters
10. fuel filter
11. NGK Spark Plug wires
12. NGK SPark Plugs
13. I went premix so i don't need NEW oil metering lines
14. Thermostat
I know i need to replace all the hoses and stuff but besides that is there anything I left of?
Especially on the tranny? I was reading teh manual and i saw something about changing some gaskets? Also about gaskets , what is the easiest way to get rid of the old gaskets stuck to teh metal .. like the ones on my lower intake manifold.

 

bump

 

Your missing the most inmportant and crucial part for the rebuild that will make your car perform way better...


STICKERS!!!!!

 

Ok you should get new seals for the tranny they are sold on Mazdatrix. To get the old gasket off of the manifolds you can get some gasket remover and a razor blade or get a dremmel with a wire brush attatchment and go at it.(remember your eye goggles)

What about your air filter?

 

Street port intake & exhaust templates, TII rotor housings, and carbide bits.

 

Don't buy the rebuild kit from Mazdatrix. Get it from http://www.rotaryaviation.com/engine_products.htm

They sell kits for considerably cheaper than MT.

I'm going to be dropping a new engine into my car within the next few weeks, and I'm getting my injectors cleaned, oil-cooler cleaned, new oil-cooler lines, new vac lines, and all new gaskets, etc.

 

mazdaspeed motorsports sells them for even cheaper

 

Yeah sorry for teh confusion thanx to blackrx7 i got my rebuild kit and gasket kit from mazda motorsports. About the porting im getting that done soon by someone around here in florida.. about the turbo rotor housings u are kidding right? i already spend over 1400 bucks.. no way in hell im spending another 300 bucks on housings..lol.. thanx guys for all ur help.. so u gusy thinki should be set.. nothign else? WHERE an how much to I pay to get my oil lines and oil cooler cleaned?i searche dand im not paying 150 dollars to get it redone professionally i was thinking more of blowing compressed air in it.. what do u guys think?

 

So you can port the exhaust. You could attempt to get the diffuser out I suppose.

 

To clean the oil cooler, I imagine you can remove the thermostat and then run a solvent of some sort through it. Then let 'er dry out for a few days and reinstall.

 

I got some housing, dunno if they are good or not?

 

Where are you people getting your oil cooler lines from, i need to replace mine, and the only place i can find that sells them is mazdatrix, and they are 153 bucks, any one know of anywhere to get them cheaper?

 

Corksport sells them for 128 I think and they are the same ones as MT sells.

Santiago

 

my oil cooler is out of the car... i disconnectd the lines , so what specific solvent should i use? Also u can get some used oil cooler lines from kevin landers at .http://rotaryresurrection.com/ for like 40 bucks

 

thanks

 

Hey you forgot a :

New water pump... I always replace the water pump when rebuilding.

 

yeah u are right, but the price for a new one is a bit price.. u gusy think i shoul djust buy are build oen for 35 bucks from napa? sounds good?

 

Two tubes of HYLOMAR and a very large jar of vaseline. Plus read the fsm and mentally assymble the engine several times in your head. You need to plan ahead. Do not apply the vaseline to the rubber coolant o'rings. Use the hylomar and do NOT stretch the coolant o'rings in any way. Make sure you file the side seals to fit prior to the assy process. See fsm.

You might try a dry assy of the parts prior to the real thing. It's not that easy to insert the intermideate housing over the E-shaft your first time. You have to be able to raise the e-shaft apporx one inch while the intermediate housing is cocked/slipped over the e-shaft. Again read the fsm and do a dry run.

 

I have the rebuild video , but their has benn another problem i let my engine si toutside for about 4 days
and 3 out o fteh 4 days we had mayor raining , it was covered only by a towel i lifte dthe engine up today to get the fan out and i saw like a cup of water pouring from teh bottom , now i now is bad.. but how bad .. di di just cause mayor corrosion on teh housinsg or maybe even the rotors? i pour on ebottle of oil in the engine to help it not to form rust..

 

Minor stuff if you don'tlet it sit for a prolonged period of time.....like a couple of weeks. Since your going to take it apart, pour a couple of cups of oil in the intake and then turn the engine over a few times to distribute the oil around in the rotor housing. Not to worry if your going to overhaul in the near future.

 

Hailers, you said not to stretch the coolant rings, but I've never had a set that would stay in place unless I did. Would this cause leaking problems? Three engines and no leaks so far.
I've never tried the Hylomar, but I will on the next one.

 

man this is really a challenge for me.. more and more bumps on the way.. i took off the flywheel nut and the 19mm nut on teh opposite side, i took of the pullies with the chain, by the way i measured the slack and it was about .5 , so i guess i need to replace it, where do I but that chain? also i need the pullies.. i heard they add horsepower u know the pullie taht holds the fan an dthe big pullie under it, anyways yeah i need to find out where they sell those cheap, also do any of you guys have one small crasher .. i think i lost one when i was removing the bolts from the clutch.. they all have crashers ecxept one, they are 6 bolts in total i need the crasher for teh big bolt tey are 4 small and two a bit bigger. Anyways i was wondering if their is away to get the flywheel off with out the puller?

 

****Hailers, you said not to stretch the coolant rings***

Just meant to say if you stretch them too much, they will be of a larger diameter (too long so to speak), than the groove and there will be no way you'd be able to cram them into the groove again.

Also I used vaseline on my first two engines with success, but the third engine.......I lolly gagged around assy the parts. I lay the o'ring in the groove, decided to watch a formula one race and come back later. Well I came back a couple of hours later and the o'ring had popped out of the groove and decided to grow (sun was a shinning on the parts and heating things up). Had to buy another o'ring because that one got too long/wide whatever. That was the last time I used vaseline on the o'rings. Still us vaseline on the small approx half inch o'rings etc but not the large ones. Cost me too much for so little. Remember....I'm an shade tree mechanic, not a professional and plan on maintaining that status.

 

I would also send out the injectors to Marren or RC Eng for a professional cleaning

 

already got the injectors profesionaly cleaned and blueprinted/ replaced all the orings on them too.