What the eff, Do i really need a koyo!
 

I cannot figure out why my car is getting so damn hot. Its an S5 13bt with a bunch of mods.

Prob:
When the car idles and drives it gets to dangerous temps.


So i checked the thermostat and it was fine
Then changed the rad to a Copper t2 rad>didnt work
Did waterwetter with water and coolant >didnt work
Then i hollowed out the old thermostat in
a sad attempt to fix the problem > Didnt work


The only thing i can think of is either a new rad or the E-fan isnt doing its job. Now, i have no shroud but could having no shroud really cause the heat probs while im driving?? I checked for air in the system but im going to check again tomorrow but im really at wits end here and i need some help please!.

Chevy..
go and get a Mercury Villager Fan(1995 or so .about 50 bucks at a wrecker)
IT sucks Great CFM's and has a shroud that will Cover the whole Rad.,Set it on HI and I can pretty well promise you all your Woes will go away!

THANK U, im going to do that first thing tomorrow morning, lol

What fan do you have? CFM's?


On my old streetported stock turbo setup, I ran the stock rad with a 3000 CFM 16" e-fan. No shroud. Temps were fine, would creep up around 200 when I'd push it really hard.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/running-hot-any-ideas-917615/

Maybe some day you guys will actually search and instead of having 4 thousand threads on one subject we will have one that e-1 has added to? :-)

exactly what temps are you seeing and how are you measuring these temps?

seeing 240 cruising at night when its kinda cool outside. I think i may be able to fix it tho, how do u think a dual fan setup from a sentra would work??

At cruising speeds your E-fan or Fan clutch is not a factor.

So with that in mind either your radiator is blocked and not flowing properly or your T-stat is defective or your gauge is reading incorrectly.

Do your self a favor and get a OEM thermostat if you are running a after market one. Also if the radiator cap is old replace that as well.

no shroud or underpan could be the problem maybe u have shitty hoses. or u have a seal leak.

Ok, im gonna go pick up a cap, im still gonna throw the dual fans on and i just bought a 185 thermostat. if the problem persists i guess its time for a radiator :(.

how old is the water pump? The impeller in the pump can corrode and it will not pump the coolant but appear to be functioning.
If the pump is of unknown age change it.

Whats the details on the fans your getting? How much air do they move? Instead of doing a bunch of work for nothing, research a good fan to use(mr2/pontiac 6000/ taurus/ etc.

Doesn't seem like a little 4 cylinder fan would move enough air...

post a picture of your rad/efan and whatever your using to control it please.

ok ill go get a pic real quick. Its a single e-fan (unknown brand) and the Dual fan controller from pepboys for $39 (actually works really good), of coarse tho i only have a single fan setup right now.

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...-controlle.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...llsize/rad.jpg

you really need a shroud on that.
Even stick the stock shroud on there would help.
See if the Stock shroud alone will fit OVER the fan.After all it is built to mount on the rad,and wouldn't take any time at all to put on.See if it helps you,.(it'd be Free wouldn't it,if you still have it?).

Is the underpan on still?

Have you done a cooling system pressure check?

you have no shroud on that thing. no wonder its overheating.

A shroud isn't going to do anything if the fan is that weak.

That looks like the piss-poor fans from autozone that doesn't move shit for air.


Buy a known high flowing fan, and report back.

looks like the same one that i use to have..i had an aftermarket defi coolant temp gauge and mine stayed around 180 to 195 and never went above that...and that was in the texas summer!!

You can clean up your wiring a little better, wrap the ones that run along together with electrical tape for a neater appearance.

Take the green wire on your fan controller and wire it up to the same source as the ignition wire.. That should run it all the time when the ignition is on, and see if that changes anything.

I think you can clean this up, but also consider getting a different efan. A couple bucks junkyard hunting. Get a good one and you can make some simple brackets for it so you dont have any poking thru the radiator mickeymouse stuff going on.

Oh yeah, those fan controllers get screwed up if you ever get water on it btw.

Ya the wiring all throughout the engine bay is taped up except that, i wanted to go t a dual fan setup at the time so i left it out. The controller is also mounted away from water so hopefully it will never get wet.

Ok, im gonna make a fan shroud and buy a new rad cap and hopefully life will be easier. If the shroud doesnt work im gonna buy a dual fan setup.

One large fan is more efficient than two smaller ones.
When you make the shroud keep in mind that the further the fan is spaced from the rad, the better it works.

Got ya, im going to buy the sheet metal now

BTW it is a common misconception that you wont overheat at cruising speed with the stock fan and no shroud. Just because you have some slight positive flow. The way the cooling air intake is layed out you still need a fan shroud to provide enough flow.

1. The oil cooler sees most of the direct flow.
2. The radiator has no real good intake shrouding.

Rad Mounted E-fan or shrouded stock fan is the only way to get enough airflow through the radiator.

Ok, so i went out and started the car. The temp stayed at 185 and it was glorious, so i then i revved it a couple times and all went to shit. I revved it and then the temp started to raise, so i checked the rad and one side was cool and one side was burning hot. SO im guessing the rad is clogged, what is the best way to unclog this evil radiator??


Does it matter that im getting my signal from the Motor where the stock temp sensor is and not from the rad??

what "signal"?

temp signal to my autometer gauge. Im not using the probe that came with the gauge im using the factory probe.

Hahahaha.... there's your problem.... you cant use the stock sensor with an aftermarket gauge, it won't read correctly. Get the right probe, install it correctly. Un-clog your radiator, or get a new one and finally, put a freakin shroud over your fan.

Really, where should i put the autometer probe?? and ya ya im gettin a shroud lol

just connect the stock gauge back for now, you will have to tap the water pump housing, thermostat housing ( if you have a s4 ), or radiator hose to use the autometer probe

using the stock temp sensor in the block im getting readings of up to 250! is that an ok temp for block heat opposed to temp in the radiator?

I can hook the sensor up right on top of the rad where the other sensor is, would that work?

stock temp sensor and stock gauge is showing 250?

I may have passed my solution in the thread but I was having the exact same problem. My water pump wasn't leaking from the weep hole, but I was having crazy driving temps (220-260 depending on how hot it was outside) and I could never figure out why. Changed my rad 2 times, once with a another n/a rad, and again with a no-name aftermarket one. Both times never changed temps.

I finally ended up replacing my water pump one day when it seized and from that point on, the car never came above 185.

Never have used a undertray on my car.

could also be slipping belts too

I was just thinking that. On that note, it is also possible to overtighten the belt putting too much pressure on the water pump. That's how I broke my old water pump and caused it to seize. I kept tightening and tightening it thinking it was loose.

the aftermarket temp gauge should be tapped as close to the stock sensor on the waterpump housing.

people think that just because the pump is not leaking from the weep hole that it has to be good, not true at all.
It can corrode. I myself went crazy with another car, everything changed and nothing got better. Pump impeller was corroded.

+1 Had the same problem.

Of course, I later found out that the coolant seals were also going bad, but the new water pump gave me a couple extra thousand miles before I had to rebuild.

You can also get a brass Tee fitting and tee into the BAC line for a easy aftermarket temp gauge install. I went this route with my S4 and havent had any problems. 15k miles.

check this out
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/wow-even-crappy-radiator-ducting-makes-huge-difference-917928/

hypertek i was just reading that lol. Im running a gilmer belt setup so slipping isnt an issue, also i didnt over tighten the belt, i made sure of that. Im working on hooking up the stock temp sensor to get a general idea until i pop the autometer sensor in. Im hoping the gauge has been off this entire time and im just a dumbass, that would be glorious

i had that same stupid fan. with my front mount on it got hot a lot. went to the junk yard and got a fan from a escort with a shroud and never had a problem ever again. my autometer gauge stayed right at 180 even on a hot day. i had a 3 row innercooler also.

i ordered the fitting to put my sensor in the stock location and im picking it up in about 2 hrs. Hopefully the car was never overheating, but it def seems like its running hot to me. But so far this is what i have to do:

Need shroud
Need Ducting
Possibly better fan(s)
Possibly new radiator

A good list.

Dont worry too much, despite contrary belief it really takes quite a bit of heat to cook these motors..... I've seen a rotary reading 220 - 240 degrees throughout an entire race day, in fact it even ran out of coolant.... COMPLETELY! Still kept going, running strong.

Still, heat is the enemy, and even though I myself have been lucky a number of times, others havent been. Get the temps down! Good luck!

ok, UPDATE!!

I ran into so many problems trying to get the autometer sensor in the block so i just tapped into the upper rad hose. Its reading 155 idling for about 10 mins, i havnt driven it yet but im going out right after this. Im also going to pick up another 10" fan for freeee so that should help a little bit.

After everything i believe the stock cooling system will work but im going to buy a fluidyne anyway. i have wayyy too much money into the car to chance some freak overheating accident.

Thanks guys for all ur help, i wouldnt have gotten it done without u

if its at 155 in the upper rad hose, the thermostat hasnt opened yet. so the water in that rad hose will be cooler.

ok, i just took the sensor out to make the hole nicer and i dropped it. i put it back in and now im getting no reading, what the hell? are the sensors uber sensative or something??

heres my setup
koyo copper rad, pontiac fiero fan, vdo temp gauge installed in the water jacket, derale adjustable fan control. http://i37.tinypic.com/10cjjwg.jpg

The temp gauge probe location going to be the most accurate, than i got the efan thermostat probe in the rad hose . Just takes trial and error to set the adjustable thermostat control onto a nice number since the degrees are going to vary between the 2.

Im seeing some hotter temps during the summer, so im too trying to fine tune it, i also dont have the bottom underpanel/ducting.

ok now what did u do for the temp sesnsor, did u just drill through the existing hole until it was all the way through??